Diseazd

Remove the starter and put a flathead screwdriver in a flywheel gear till it locks against the tranny housing. Torque the crank bolt to spec. This obviously takes two people.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/25643-total-restoration-project-71-a-2.html Check page 2 to see what can be done. My frame shop replaced the whole front driver side clip on the 71. You do need a competent frame shop to do it so everything lines up, but it can be done. Now is it worth it? That's why it's so important to pay up for a good chassis.

End of the first week....Chuck is starting at the driver side corner, working forward. I'll post pics at the end of each week.

OZ.....Good to hear from you again Mate. Yes, this engine is exactly what you and I discussed several years back ........we thought it would be fun, and we were right. It doesn't feel like it's got quite the low end torque as the longer stroke L28 crank, but the smoothness and quickness to 7000 are awesome! I highly recommend it......the modern head (shaved P79) with the short stroke L24 crank and rods are a great combination. I liked it so much, I'm doing it again. Hope you and the family are good.....keep dodging those Wallabies! Guy BTW.....Yes I love motors......can't have too many motors....I've got nine extras.

Low compression (leaking valves) were my first choice.....his characteristics are exactly what a car with a couple bent valves or too tightly adjusted valves exhibit. He said the only thing he did was adjust the valves.....well maybe that did it. Also, he did a compression check.....do it again....you've tried everything else. In all the higher compression ratio engines I've built, I've never gotten a reading of over 185 lbs., he got 215....on a stock engine.....wow...maybe a bad gauge? Regardless, I'd run another compression check. IMO

Nice job Bill......can't wait to see it! Please update on how Todd's shifter works.

They don't have any ridge at all.....I'm boring .040 over anyway. I never know who owned these motors, so it's fun to crack 'em open, clean 'em up and put 'em back together like new. I just wish I could do the same to myself.

Tore down the dirty old motor.....It's fun to take something so ugly and make it pretty again!

Oh my God.....A Zedytwo!

Zedy.....If you need any build help, you've got my phone number.....go to Harbor Freight and buy yourself an engine stand and an engine hoist. You of all people should build that engine yourself (like all your stuff, it would be beautiful). It ain't rocket science.......we can can walk you through it.....it's a blast!

Steve.....L28'S and L24's are the same dimensions everywhere except cylinder bores.......

Your local Nissan dealer has them....

Thanks EuroDat......good stuff. JR.......I haven't balanced any of my motors to date....I am going to balance the bottom end on this one. I've heard from more than one source that the Z engines came pretty much balanced from the factory. Don't know if it'll be noticeable, but will be interested to find out.....if I can even tell. I would think that a race car that lives at high rpm would certainly need balancing ......not sure about a street car.

Not really.....I just enjoy working with different stock mods and combos.......adding some ponies makes these cars much more fun to drive. I was in Eiji's shop Sunday.......really, really cool stuff.....he's got tons of replated and restored motor parts......he is a true craftsman and a really good friend. He loves the L series motors! BTW....There are two sets on eBay as we speak.

Yes, but I haven't got them yet....they're coming in a separate box. I'll let you know what they look like when I get them. I just like Perfect Circle, Total Seal or Nissan rings. The oil rings and spreaders are excellent on all 3.

"My ITM pistons were great, but I should have thrown the rings away." Quote I'm using the Nissan rings with my set.......they're still available.

Zedy....Thanks so much for your kind words.....I just love to do these cars the right way.....they're not making any more of 'em. I always buy 16 inch Panasport wheels....my favorite tire size is 205 55 16....nice look, no rubbing.....the orange car wears that size. The 225 50 16's are the best looking (the green car), but there is some rub issues. Spruell Racing in Atlanta has the best deal on Panasports....$150.00 cheaper than anyone else. Guy

Spruell Racing in Atlanta can probably get 'em also Jonathan.....they're in Atlanta......great folks to work with ......I buy my Panasports there....$150.00 cheaper than anywhere else. The ITM's are nice....aren't they Jeff?

The Nissan dealership in Roanoke. You can usually find the ITM ad on eBay though.

I just received my new .040 over ITM pistons......they're beautiful.....look like factory Nissan. If you need replacement pistons for your Z's or 510's, use these pistons. Let's keep a good supplier of pistons for our cars.

That's right, you told me that before.......you'll love that set up Jeff....lots of low end torque! Good luck.....post pics of the mods.

Hi Jeff....Yes it revs better than a standard stroke (long stroke) L28.....it drives so smooth and doesn't fight getting to 7000 rpm. I imagine this is what a Ferrari feels like with their short stroke motors. Remember to shim the towers .080 inches and shim up the springs .080 also. You do that with 2 extra spring seats which are .040 inches each. Hi Oz.....You were absolutely right.....it's the perfect bore to stroke ratio. Leave it to me to question Nissan....in 1975, they lengthened the stroke for more CID.....however, for driveabilty, I find this motor "just what the doctor ordered" BTW, does anyone with an L28 car know what your redline is on the tach for the stock L28? I broke one at 7500 last week....spun a bearing.

Zup....I have no idea.....the car was an automatic (I changed it to manual). It's a single point distributor however and I don't notice any difference regards to the way it drives versus my other manual cars. The wires to the distributor end up in the same place as my other cars, so I don't see how it could affect timing. I'm guessing it's a relay for the A/C which I removed......since I know bat**** about electrical stuff, I'd refer to our resident electrical genius (SteveJ) even if he did go to Vandy!

Sorry Steve...none yet......My friend is moving his dyno to his new warehouse.....I've been bugging him, but It'll have to wait.....the car is at the restoration shop now anyway......my guess is not as much as the longer stroke motor, but who knows. The bore to stroke ratio is nicer on this motor, and it's more fun to drive.

I liked the new engine so much, I'm going to do it again. I just bought this F54 block......I'll put an L24 crank and rods in the L28 block.....again,I'll use the shaved and shimmed P79 head built by Z Doc in Roanoke, Virginia along with .040 over flat top L28 pistons (ITM).