Diseazd

Correct

Originals are painted....

No doubt.....sorry you couldn't make the show in Wilson.....you N.C. boys have some nice cars and good folks....I'm going back again next year and will take a car instead of riding with Eiji. Guy

Chuck started dissassembly today.....he's also working on a couple 356's.

Thanks Jeff.....can't leave well enough alone! This car is going to be off the charts! The interior is perfect as well as the underside. I'm not sure how long Chuck will keep her, but hopefully not as long as the 71......he's just amazing...looking forward to posting some good restoration pics. Hope you and the family are good....still waiting for you to come through Richmond. Guy

Absolutely the best combo I've built.....I'm building another one just like it right now. It is smooth as silk and extremely quick to 7000 rpm....a joy to drive!

Hi J.....Every panel on the car either has dents or some imperfections. The tailgate has screws in it from the louvers that came with the car. This car is going to be really, really nice. Trust me.....Chuck will make it perfect! Just as nice as the 71 he did for me.

Dropped the orange 72 off at my restoration guru.....pics to follow as Chuck works his magic.

Eiji at Datsunspirit.com may have several nice ones.......at least he did a couple weeks ago.

Good taste in cars......and dogs! Japanese car.....German Short Hair Pointer.....nice!

Jeff......If by chance you do remove the struts to adjust the height, might I suggest that you buy a quart of single stage 112 Lime paint and paint the wheel wells with a paint brush. You can't tell the difference between a spray job and a brush job under the wells (rough texture), and you've done such a beautiful job on the struts, brakes etc. , it would really set off your restoration. Also, IMO, Eibach springs are really cheap and give you a good ride height......why not order a set so you know where you're going to end up? Nice work!

greg Ira executive 240z at Sebring. Type this into YouTube and you can see it on its first run.....

Mike.....I also switched from State Farm to Hagerty's. My rate for Hagerty's is $1,000.00 per year for all 5. Four are insured for $25,000.00 and the fifth (71) is insured for $30,000.00. I have a friend who totaled a 65 Porsche with $57,000.00 agreed value...Hagerty's stroked the check....no problem.

It always amazes me why Z owners try to change things that work so well.....the stock point distributers work so well.....why futz with them! The only two times I can remember losing everything in a Z was when number 1, I lost a fusible link....number 2, I had a loose wire on the distributor. Zedy .....Check the crimp on your distributor connections and your fusible link...if that isn't the problem, bolt on one of those old fashioned stock distributors and see if that fixes the problem......IMO

Sounds like low compression.......do a compression check. I bent some valves once (over revved) and it wouldn't run under 2500 rpm's.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/31001-new-l-28-goes-1970-a.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/42488-new-engine.html Hope these help......I used shaved and shimmed P79 heads in all 3 builds, also used Isky Stage III cams in each........Guy

Thanks e-trek......I have many sources for parts, from Z owners to MSA , Black Dragon etc. If you need a particular part, PM me and I'll try to help steer you to the vendor or person to best help you. I'm enjoying following your restoration thread. BTW......the orange Z should be going in for paint soon.....I'll update as Chuck starts working his magic....he's amazing. Regards.......Guy

Thanks Matt.....I just love these little cars....always have!

Zedy....I could say the same thing about yours.....especially your engine bay....Wow! The silver car is the original paint believe it or not. Bought that one from Jeff Mader. Guy

Hope these help......

I talked with the Z Doctor in Roanoke yesterday......same question.....how much can you safely shave off of a P79 piston? He wasn't sure, but thought he remembered that you needed a minimum of .250 inches of material on a piston head to be safe. Does anyone have some type of caliper to measure the thickness of the material in a P79 piston, or can they confirm that number?

Great info......Seems like the P79 pistons actually do come out of the late block .020 inches from the factory and if you use Steve's .045 inch compressed gasket, you're running a piston to head clearance of .025 inches......that's interesting. Now if you do run into a situation where the block is milled or clearance is too tight, how much can you mill off of the P79 piston safely. Anyone know what the max material that can be removed from a stock P79 piston?

Steve......I can't remember exactly what Dave said, but I thought he told me .045 inches.....but whatever he said, it seemed like a lot to me at the time. He deals with race engines, so street engines under 7,000 rpm will probably survive less. My questions are these. 1) What is the average gasket crush thickness for the stock Nissan gasket 2) What is the minimum allowable clearance between piston and head for L series engines 3) What is the max material that can safely be removed from the stock P79 and L24 pistons. No guessers please. I'd be interested in what John Williams or Dave Rebello or someone of equal knowledge has to contribute........it's probably already been discussed on Hybrid.

Malibud.....I'm interested to hear what John Williams says is the max that can be removed from P79 (flat top pistons) safely. I've shaved as much as .025 inches from my 73 Nissan 240Z pistons which come out of the block by .030 inches by design, because they were designed for the open head late E88 head. I believe the minimum clearance between piston and head that Rebello recommends is .045 inches, which means a stock crushed gasket is .060 inches meaning your P79 piston would need to be milled .035 to get that clearance. .035 inches seems like a lot, but I'd like to know if John thinks that's OK. Also, I'd like to know what John thinks is an minimum allowable piston to head clearance is for the L series engine. Shaving the pistons is definitely the easiest solution and allows you to stay stock with your gasket. I agree with Madkaw on the front cover. Put some 220 grit on a flat surface and remove enough from the front cover to match the block.

Thanks Arnie.....Just what I was looking for.....Guy