Diseazd
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Everything posted by Diseazd
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Anyone heard of any new sources for L series lash pads.......... .150's, .160's, .170's and .180's ? Just checking on possible new suppliers. -
As cheap as a disc is, why would you ever not just go with a newbie?
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Dltalfa.... I installed one in my green Z while the tank was in the car. Remove the two wires from the sending unit, with a short flat head screw driver, tap off the lock ring.......remove the old unit. Coat the (new O ring with grease)so it stays put while you slide in the new unit, then tap on the new lock ring....reattach the wires. One hour job....no problem.
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Offer him $500.00.......part it out and use the money you make on parts to buy a car with a less issues......."jack up the radiator cap and put another car under it" .........this car is toast! IMO
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Steve's the "go to" person for electrical issues......Vanderbilt E.E. ......give him your info and he'll make it right! He's saved my azz a number of times! :ogre:
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ZWolfe......Yes, if you bore.040 over, you won't have to notch the block. Notching the block is not difficult either, as long as you don't go deeper than the ring or back under the head gasket. The late E88 head is probably the worst performance choice you can make for an L series engine IMO. The early E88 and E31 heads used brass valve seats which are incompatible with unleaded gas. If you go that route, you'll need to have hardened valve seats installed. If you do go that route, you can install L28 valve seats and L28 valves and pick up a nice combo for your L24 block. If you do go with the bigger valves, you'll have to notch the cylinders for clearance of the bigger exhaust valve. If you bore .040 over, no notching is necessary.....you'll have enough clearance for the larger exhaust valve.
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The bigger exhaust valve ain't going to do that much for performance. If you want performance, buy an early head, install the L28 hardened seats, L28 valves and notch the block......or better still, bore .040 over and you won't need to notch the block. The late E88 heads are just plain poor as far as performance is concerned.
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You can eliminate the problem with a simple notching of the block (for the exhaust valve).....a better solution is to get an early E88 or E31 head.....they aren't that hard to find and will give you a better performing engine (higher CR). IMO
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Woody Staub's Executive Z built by Greg Ira. Beautiful car.....great color combination.
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Olzed is right......your auto Z has a 3.54 diff. A 4 speed will be turning 3,000 rpm at 60 mph with that diff......not fun on a long trip. If you have a late 71 Z with the long driveshaft, there's no difference between installing the 5 speed versus the 4 speed.....both transmissions are exactly the same dimensions.The 5 speed will work much better with the 3.54 diff. If you have an early 71, it could require some mods. If you have a late 71, the 5 speed is a better mousetrap IMO.
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The only differences that you'll be able to see (to confirm the update has been done) is the rear control arm hanger is curved (behind the diff) as opposed to the early cars (straight) and if you look close you can tell the mustache bar is flipped 180 degrees. This gives the diff the space to move back when the new diff mount (which moves the diff back) is installed. Great project! PJOE (Brian) can help you with altering your shift lever to clear the console.
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Bill.....Doesn't matter whether it is an "A" 4 speed, "B" 4 speed or 280Z or 280ZX 4 or 5 speed tranny (they are all the same dimensions).......If you have a series I that doesn't have the updated conversion (series 2 diff hanger, flipped mustache bar and late diff mount and longer driveshaft) you have to use the short driveshaft. If you add those four items, you'll move the diff back so the half shafts aren't angular.That's why the factory changed that on series II cars....it got rid of the vibration from the half shafts angling forward on the early cars.
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I like cork gaskets.....they seal real well with no leaks. I don't use any sealant. The crush of the thick cork gasket compensates for the distortion of the oil pan. Don't torque it too tight though.
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Mitchell.....Just on the 72 with front and rear Willwoods. I think most of your stopping is done with the front brakes.....If I were you Mitch I'd just go with fronts......see how you like 'em......Heck of a lot easier than the rears. The Willwoods are really nice looking and they work good, but I rebuilt the stock fronts on the 73 and replaced the rotors and they work pretty good too.
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If it stops, but feels like you've got to stand on the pedal to lock it up, you've dropped the reaction disc in the booster. Take off the two nuts that hold the MC to the booster and pull it back a couple inches (no need to remove the brake lines ). Pull out the plunger from the booster.......neck down a vacuum hose to a small tube and suck the disc out of the booster. Super glue the disc to the back of the plunger and reinstall......night and day difference.
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Did you remove the master cylinder for any reason?
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Nice job Bill......looking great! Eiji builds a beautiful motor. Regards. Guy. P.s. Get Mike McGinnis to make you some new ID plates.
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Hi Jeff......The reaction disc isn't going to fix his pedal to the floor problem, but when he fixes his bleed problem, he'll need to follow my post number 6 or he'll face another problem. Regards. Guy
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Ksechler......You probably did drop your reaction disc. No problem....you need to remove the two nuts attaching the M/C to the booster. Now move the M/C over a few inches to gain access to the plunger rod (no need to remove hydraulic lines from M/C, they will bend and move easily to give you access to the plunger). Pull the plunger and rubber seal cover out of the booster. Shine a light in the booster......if you see metal where the back of the plunger contacts the booster, the disc has dropped. You can probably retrieve the disc with needle nose pliers, if not, make a small neck down on your shop vac and vacuum the little rubber circle out. Super glue it to the back of the plunger and reinstall everything. You may have to adjust the length of the plunger, but a booster with out a reaction disc will never be right.
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When you install the oil pump shaft, you need to be at TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. When the number 1 piston is TDC, both cam lobes on number 1 will be pointing up (valves closed). If you installed it at TDC exhaust stroke, you'll be 180degrees out. When you are at TDC compression stroke, the half moon should be at 11:25 with the small half moon forward. Get the engine TDC compression stroke......pull the distributor........check for the 11:25 location and make sure the little half moon faces forward. If not, pull the oil pump and try again.
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Make sure you're on TDC of the compression stroke. If not, you could be 180 degrees out.
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The lower valance has some adjustment in them......You can probably get enough forward adjustment to clear without cutting any metal. I run 205 50 16's on my white Z, 225 50 16's on my lemon green Z and 205 55 16's on the orange Z and gold Z. The 205 50 16's are 3/4 inches shorter than stock, but the car drives real nice. I agree with Jim (jfa.series1)......the 205 55 16's are damned near the perfect tire for the street...The same height as stock and plenty of width and zero clearance issues. The green car (225 50 16's) would rub without rear camber plates (which I now run) and I adjusted the front valance for clearance there. I didn't want to roll the fenders. Your car looks great....hope you get all of your rubs resolved.
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Steve.....I don't know of anyone modifying the shifter for sale, but I believe Carl Beck has the drawings required to correctly modify your shifter. When you modify the shifter, you must get the center axis right as well as the bend......Brian did it by trial and error. Guy