Diseazd

The later Nissan stock dampers (280's) have about a quarter inch radius (inside diameter) larger than the rest of the bore. This is very important as far as alligning the woodruff key. You have 1/4 inch to feel the key engage the groove in the damper. If not aligned perfect, it will drive the woodruff key through your oil slinger. Ask me how I know this?

Black Dragon has hardened valve seats for $4.95 each.

Double post.....double screw up.

I've got 5 Z's......I ordered them both at the same time. They were so damned tight, I had them machined to fit. Still sucked.....threw them away......didn't want to give anyone else my headache. Just say I trusted MSA to know it's product.

I bought two also......threw them in the dump.

Where's the radio?

........and if you want to know if the PO already did the upgrade, just look at your rear hangar......if it is straight across the top (early hangar),it hasn't been upgraded. If the top of the hangar curves around the diff (later hangar),the upgrade has been done.

That makes sense Blue, but why would it just compress your water jackets when it was cold? I'm sure a blown head gasket could exert that amount of pressure in the right place, but why only when the engine is cold. I assume your engine is running OK Steve....right? Do you believe a water pump could exert enough pressure to damage a thermostat or freeze plug if it backs up enough pressure behind a closed thermostat or is that probably not possible?

Steve.....Did you wind it up before the thermostat opened? I blew a freeze plug once by revving 7000 before the thermostat had opened.......that pressure could bend a thermostat if you have too many revs with no exit.

Hopefully it's the updated series (longer driveshaft), but with the early ashtray, I doubt it. My 71 is the same thing...early ashtray but everything else including pillar emblems are late Z items. My driveshaft was the short one. I'll check the build date, but I believe it's 5/71. Just checked.....it's 5/71 which means you probably have the short driveshaft unless updated. To upgrade to longer driveshaft, you need a late diff mount, a long driveshaft, a 72 diff hanger and you'll flip the mustache bar. If you don't want to do that, you'll need the short driveshaft and as Eurodat stated, you're going to need to either modify your console or shifter as Zedyone just finished doing to keep the shifter from hitting your early console.The tranny mount in your 3/71 will fit the ZX tranny and bolt right up.

I believe the 3/71 is an early model (short driveshaft).......If the previous owner didn't do the update, you simply use the same length driveshaft that came out of the car. Measure it.....if it's the short driveshaft, he didn't upgrade the drive train....if it's the longer driveshaft, he did. The dimension of the late and early trannies are identical except the location of the shift lever......that will require mods to your console or shifter if you indeed have the early Z. Do you have an early ashtray etc.? Someone else could chime in regarding production dates for the early cars.

The 70 Z's had the angular half shafts with the short driveshaft. Use what comes out of the car......Or, go ahead and do the conversion which is a late diff mount, a long driveshaft and reversing the mustache bar. I'm only two hours away.....I like IPA's from the keg. All of this assumes the PO didn't already do the swap.

Yoshi_w.........If you have a spray bar, you don't need holes in the lobes. If not, you absolutely must have holes in the lobes. Early 240 Z's had spray bars as did some very early 280's. Make sure you understand that relationship. Isky will grind you a beautiful cam......I suggest Stage III. You'll be glad you did.

I know Delta Cams does a beautiful job and cheap at that. I think they were $5.00 per rocker and turnaround was like 7 days.

I agree 26th Z.......GET OVER IT! It's a beautiful flag from the country that gave us the cars we all get giddy over. Japan is a great trading partner and ally......what about the Union Jack or maybe you BMW or Porsche fans? Good job Mike.......it's perfect.

Either of the cams you mentioned are OK to regrind. Isky Cams is excellent. Remember......if you have a lift of more than .460 inches, you'll need their valve springs. Also, get Delta Cams to resurface your rocker arms. Finally, you'll need to geometry your cam with the proper lash pads to center the cam wipe patterns. If you're not comfortable with all of this, seek professional help.

Really cool........I love it!

Very funny Zedy.....very funny!

How much?

When you buy the eccentric, make sure you buy the bolt and washer too. You don't want the bolt to bottom out in the cam. All are still available from Nissan.

All 3 of my L28's are running P79 heads with mechanical fuel pumps. A machine shop can open up a hole for the mechanical fuel pump, or you can scribe it and do it yourself. The stud holes are already there.

Why not just use the mechanical fuel pump.......It works just fine for all 3 of my modified L28's with SU's.

Tennis ball green is OK with me.........anything but lime green.......the color isn't any way, shape or form the dark color of a lime......there...I feel better. Chartreuse or lemon green will get the job done also. So HardWay....could you change your avatar to read: Tennis Ball Green Machine.

Sounds good Mark.......can't wait to see how she runs!

Put a lime on the hood and a lemon......which comes closest to a match. Just a thought........BTW......it's my favorite color on the Z. Great job HardWay, great thread......