Diseazd

The only differences that you'll be able to see (to confirm the update has been done) is the rear control arm hanger is curved (behind the diff) as opposed to the early cars (straight) and if you look close you can tell the mustache bar is flipped 180 degrees. This gives the diff the space to move back when the new diff mount (which moves the diff back) is installed. Great project! PJOE (Brian) can help you with altering your shift lever to clear the console.

Bill.....Doesn't matter whether it is an "A" 4 speed, "B" 4 speed or 280Z or 280ZX 4 or 5 speed tranny (they are all the same dimensions).......If you have a series I that doesn't have the updated conversion (series 2 diff hanger, flipped mustache bar and late diff mount and longer driveshaft) you have to use the short driveshaft. If you add those four items, you'll move the diff back so the half shafts aren't angular.That's why the factory changed that on series II cars....it got rid of the vibration from the half shafts angling forward on the early cars.

I like cork gaskets.....they seal real well with no leaks. I don't use any sealant. The crush of the thick cork gasket compensates for the distortion of the oil pan. Don't torque it too tight though.

Blue ......4 piston Willwoods (no idea what diameter...Arizona Z could tell you). Mitchell...yes I used the stock Datsun M/C and booster....it works perfect. I know people recommend the 15/16 M/C, but stock works great for me.

Mitchell.....Just on the 72 with front and rear Willwoods. I think most of your stopping is done with the front brakes.....If I were you Mitch I'd just go with fronts......see how you like 'em......Heck of a lot easier than the rears. The Willwoods are really nice looking and they work good, but I rebuilt the stock fronts on the 73 and replaced the rotors and they work pretty good too.

Blue....All but one of my Z's run Willwoods with vented rotors on the front. The green 72 runs Willwoods front and rear. I use the stock M/C on all 5.......works perfect. Regards. Guy

If it stops, but feels like you've got to stand on the pedal to lock it up, you've dropped the reaction disc in the booster. Take off the two nuts that hold the MC to the booster and pull it back a couple inches (no need to remove the brake lines ). Pull out the plunger from the booster.......neck down a vacuum hose to a small tube and suck the disc out of the booster. Super glue the disc to the back of the plunger and reinstall......night and day difference.

Did you remove the master cylinder for any reason?

Nice job Bill......looking great! Eiji builds a beautiful motor. Regards. Guy. P.s. Get Mike McGinnis to make you some new ID plates.

Hi Jeff......The reaction disc isn't going to fix his pedal to the floor problem, but when he fixes his bleed problem, he'll need to follow my post number 6 or he'll face another problem. Regards. Guy

Ksechler......You probably did drop your reaction disc. No problem....you need to remove the two nuts attaching the M/C to the booster. Now move the M/C over a few inches to gain access to the plunger rod (no need to remove hydraulic lines from M/C, they will bend and move easily to give you access to the plunger). Pull the plunger and rubber seal cover out of the booster. Shine a light in the booster......if you see metal where the back of the plunger contacts the booster, the disc has dropped. You can probably retrieve the disc with needle nose pliers, if not, make a small neck down on your shop vac and vacuum the little rubber circle out. Super glue it to the back of the plunger and reinstall everything. You may have to adjust the length of the plunger, but a booster with out a reaction disc will never be right.

When you install the oil pump shaft, you need to be at TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. When the number 1 piston is TDC, both cam lobes on number 1 will be pointing up (valves closed). If you installed it at TDC exhaust stroke, you'll be 180degrees out. When you are at TDC compression stroke, the half moon should be at 11:25 with the small half moon forward. Get the engine TDC compression stroke......pull the distributor........check for the 11:25 location and make sure the little half moon faces forward. If not, pull the oil pump and try again.

Make sure you're on TDC of the compression stroke. If not, you could be 180 degrees out.

The lower valance has some adjustment in them......You can probably get enough forward adjustment to clear without cutting any metal. I run 205 50 16's on my white Z, 225 50 16's on my lemon green Z and 205 55 16's on the orange Z and gold Z. The 205 50 16's are 3/4 inches shorter than stock, but the car drives real nice. I agree with Jim (jfa.series1)......the 205 55 16's are damned near the perfect tire for the street...The same height as stock and plenty of width and zero clearance issues. The green car (225 50 16's) would rub without rear camber plates (which I now run) and I adjusted the front valance for clearance there. I didn't want to roll the fenders. Your car looks great....hope you get all of your rubs resolved.

Steve.....I don't know of anyone modifying the shifter for sale, but I believe Carl Beck has the drawings required to correctly modify your shifter. When you modify the shifter, you must get the center axis right as well as the bend......Brian did it by trial and error. Guy

The later Nissan stock dampers (280's) have about a quarter inch radius (inside diameter) larger than the rest of the bore. This is very important as far as alligning the woodruff key. You have 1/4 inch to feel the key engage the groove in the damper. If not aligned perfect, it will drive the woodruff key through your oil slinger. Ask me how I know this?

Black Dragon has hardened valve seats for $4.95 each.

Double post.....double screw up.

I've got 5 Z's......I ordered them both at the same time. They were so damned tight, I had them machined to fit. Still sucked.....threw them away......didn't want to give anyone else my headache. Just say I trusted MSA to know it's product.

I bought two also......threw them in the dump.

Where's the radio?

........and if you want to know if the PO already did the upgrade, just look at your rear hangar......if it is straight across the top (early hangar),it hasn't been upgraded. If the top of the hangar curves around the diff (later hangar),the upgrade has been done.

That makes sense Blue, but why would it just compress your water jackets when it was cold? I'm sure a blown head gasket could exert that amount of pressure in the right place, but why only when the engine is cold. I assume your engine is running OK Steve....right? Do you believe a water pump could exert enough pressure to damage a thermostat or freeze plug if it backs up enough pressure behind a closed thermostat or is that probably not possible?

Steve.....Did you wind it up before the thermostat opened? I blew a freeze plug once by revving 7000 before the thermostat had opened.......that pressure could bend a thermostat if you have too many revs with no exit.

Hopefully it's the updated series (longer driveshaft), but with the early ashtray, I doubt it. My 71 is the same thing...early ashtray but everything else including pillar emblems are late Z items. My driveshaft was the short one. I'll check the build date, but I believe it's 5/71. Just checked.....it's 5/71 which means you probably have the short driveshaft unless updated. To upgrade to longer driveshaft, you need a late diff mount, a long driveshaft, a 72 diff hanger and you'll flip the mustache bar. If you don't want to do that, you'll need the short driveshaft and as Eurodat stated, you're going to need to either modify your console or shifter as Zedyone just finished doing to keep the shifter from hitting your early console.The tranny mount in your 3/71 will fit the ZX tranny and bolt right up.