Diseazd

......not only do you need a 240mm flywheel, but also a 2+2 clutch collar. I've never had any problems what so ever with a 240z clutch in either of my modified L28 engines.......I would suspect a used clutch or as Carl mentioned, oil on the disc. IMO

Ditto on jackpot! What other brave undertakings have you attempted in your life? Welcome.

The black insulator (bump stop). I just installed the R/T mount in my 5th Z today. You'll have to trim the bump stop to fit above the diff. I cut off about 3/4 inches with a hacksaw. They work flawlessly.

Zcar Source should have them. 623 581 9227

Thanks Chuck......will do!

Really? No one on this forum has ever put a side seal in an R180?

One of the side seals in my R180 diff are leaking. I've never replaced the side seal on a 180. I've replaced it on an R200 but not the 180. I assume you remove the bolt in the center of the flange and simply pull it out, but I don't like trial and error. The factory manual is not very helpful. Anyone help me with this? Thanks. Guy

That's correct Brian......I just used the crossmember taken from my early 72 automatic transmission (the one on the right) and it also works with the B type 4 speed that I'm replacing it with. The transmission mount insulator is also the same on either transmission....auto or manual..... "A" or "B" tranny.

IMHO, there's nothing wrong with the system as she stands. There's pretty much something for everyone as things stand. A stock class Z is beautiful, but anyone who grew up with Z's in the early 70's knows that the "cool" Z's didn't stay completely stock very long......at least in Atanta, and California and everywhere else for that matter. Wheels, spoilers, exhaust etc. only enhanced the mystique of the Datsun 240Z. Therefore, 6 to 8 mods should qualify an owner for the street modified class....the one with most of the entries. I don't know about past years, but last year (my first ZCON), it seems that Gold Madallion winners were limited to show cars that were modified to hide all the cad plated items that are so damned hard to get perfect. John, Todd, Fred and all the other judges at ZCON 2011.....you did a great job......you'll never please everyone......so continue your work. The best and most beautiful Z should win in each class......whether the owner did all the work or not. No one is an expert at every phase of restoration......"Trailer Queens" will (and should) continue to take first place.

I finally got the front suspension back in. New Eibachs, Tokico HP's, new ball joints, tie rod ends, all new bushings, brake lines, pads, rotors, clips etc. etc. Came out nice. Now to the rear suspension, diff, gas tank etc. etc.

:stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid:

I agree with Cbuczesk and Zcars........your pushrod is too long. You need to readjust to a shorter length.......your master cylinder is holding your pads against your rotors at all times. This in turn heats the rotors and expands the calipers causing your brakes to finally lock up. Be careful....it can get so hot that it warps your rotors. IMO

They are the same manufacturer that did Nissan's restoration program. Once again....only the very,very best for Mike.

I don't know how many forum members use Banzai Motorworks, but the products that Mike Mcginnis sells are unavailabe almost anywhere else. Not only that, Mike's prices are cheaper than other sources on most items because other sources actually buy from Mike and mark 'em up! Mike knows Z's in and out.......and we need to keep companies like Mike's in business. You do have to send a check before he ships, but that's a small price to pay to have access to hard to find parts.......where else are you going to find a blank ID plate, an early master vac sticker, and many, many more stickers and items that make Z restoration a lot easier?

Cleaned up under the two front wheel wells and got my son (Five and Dime) to shoot 918 orange. It came out beautiful. Also....before and after to strut restoration.....new Eibachs, Tokico HP's, new rotors, brake lines and brake line clips.

Clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder......might as well throw in the short slave cylinder hose.

You may have enough metal to get the pistons in, but the remaining walls wouldn't have enough metal to avoid flex. Did the engine run? Did you buy it with this combo? If so, did it run and if so, how good? In my experience with Z's, I've never known anyone who put L28 pistons in a 240Z block. In the old "How to Modify" book, .080 inches was the maximum over bore recommended.

Thanks beer man.........

Look at the big number next to the driver side motor mount. If it says F54, it is an L28.

Are you sure it's an L24 block?

L28 pistons won't work in an L24 block......not enough cylinder wall for that much overbore.

Anyone know what the factory torque numbers are for ball joints and tie rod ends?

The BRZ is one of the coolest cars I've ever seen.....inside and out. Get white......the best color for a BRZ....IMO.

Deja vu! Looks just like Frank's car.....

more pictures.....