Diseazd

It looks like your rockers are gouged. Can you turn them 90 degrees and take a picture?

I wouldn't give that a 2nd thought..........Where did you get your pistons?

Steve......The pistons that were fly cut from the factory......They are 73 pistons......they come out of an uncut block by .030 inches which is OK if you have the open chamber E 88 head. If you are running the early E 88 or E 31 head, you are within .030 inches of contacting the head. Any rod stretch could cause contact (maybe). But many people are running them with no problem. If you are racing and down shifting to 7 or 8 thousand rpm, it could be a problem. Street use....shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread41395.html. This may help.....

Flat tops with valve reliefs (73 pistons)come out of the block .030 inches. Gasket crush is .060 inches. Dave Rebello told me that they like .060 inch clearance between the piston and head. The way I understand it is that people install them all the time with no problem, but I shaved .020 inches off of my pistons just to be sure. The amount shaved off the head has no effect. The .005 inches off the block is no help. Are you sure you only came out .009 inches? Lay a feeler gauge on the block to measure the distance. Let me know what you come up with.

......which is why I went back with the "A" tranny in my 71. Looking forward to seeing how you make your early console fit.

I agree.......nice to get advice from a guy who knows Z's ........keep your opinions coming Arne. I've been in and out of Z's several times. I always come back.......my guess is you will too. IMO

Thanks Steve......I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs. and can tell you that getting that cotter pin in the clevis on the clutch pedal is one of my life's most significant accomplishments! Hope you're winning some races. Regards Guy

Arne.......Rare is important, but IMO the look of Panasports is just hard to beat. Wantanabe's have that same look, but sizes are hard to make work. For me, Panasports just work perfectly for the Z car. Zedy, IMO, I would switch back......your car was perfect with the Panasports........ you don't improve perfection. Guy

Hi Steve....I guess they have, but it's worth the price. They do beautiful work with a quick turn around. I was more than satisfied.

Congrats Manny......now you're a brake booster expert. Phillip has the best illustrations to help his fellow Z buddies.

Beautiful! Well done Jerry......I know you can feel the end in sight.

Look in with a flash light.......it'll be a black rubber disc the same size as the push rod base. If it's not there, it'll be metalic.

However, they are Haynes steel toed tube socks. OSHA approved!

From the looks of the interior, it was well used in those 700 miles! Are the miles documented?

Zedy....Re the mystery piece. I'm pretty sure that is a shim for a fender or door. You loosen up the bolt holding the body part and slide those shims in from the side till the panel lines up. Then tighten the bolt or bolts. By the way.....isn't that radiator from an automatic tranny car? The outlets at the bottom are to cool the tranny fluid on an automatic car I believe.

For $40.00, I would guess they put in a heli coil. I agree with the rest....we try to give advise, then don't learn the solution. Very frustrating.

Don't look at me.......honest!

Sorry Beerman but I don't agree. Give me one reason why grease is better than super glue. I had to pull my push rod out to adjust the rod recently (it was so tight, I had to put it in a vise). It was so nice not to have to have someone hold the brake pedal down so I wouldn't drop the disc again.....came out as a unit.....went back as a unit.

Take it to a good machine shop.....they'll get it out......one way or another. You don't want to break it off flush. Sometimes we need to pay the guys that do it day in and day out. When they get it out they can clean all the threads out like new.

I wouldn't put a shim under the tower under any circumstances. Are you sure you put them back in the same order? I always permananely mark the numbers on the towers before removing them. If they are in the proper order, they will work. Loosen all towers and very slowly tighten all together in very very small increments while turning the cam each step. Also, make sure the alignment pins are installed for each tower.

Ditto on above......super glue it in place as in Phil's pic. Then if you have to take the push rod out to adjust, you won't have to fish it out again.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40158.html I did the swap a year or so ago.....this will answer most of your questions. It's a fairly easy swap. Guy

I agree with olzed.......your money would be better spent on paying up for a more rust free car. You're looking at hours and hours of expensive work and materials......"Jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it"! IMO Guy

Carl may know......This makes two transition Z's for me. The 71 has the vent on the pillars instead of the tailgate. It has an early tranny and short drive shaft. The 72 has the long drive shaft and late tranny, but the early rear window and seat belts. It has the later console.