Diseazd

For $40.00, I would guess they put in a heli coil. I agree with the rest....we try to give advise, then don't learn the solution. Very frustrating.

Don't look at me.......honest!

Sorry Beerman but I don't agree. Give me one reason why grease is better than super glue. I had to pull my push rod out to adjust the rod recently (it was so tight, I had to put it in a vise). It was so nice not to have to have someone hold the brake pedal down so I wouldn't drop the disc again.....came out as a unit.....went back as a unit.

Take it to a good machine shop.....they'll get it out......one way or another. You don't want to break it off flush. Sometimes we need to pay the guys that do it day in and day out. When they get it out they can clean all the threads out like new.

I wouldn't put a shim under the tower under any circumstances. Are you sure you put them back in the same order? I always permananely mark the numbers on the towers before removing them. If they are in the proper order, they will work. Loosen all towers and very slowly tighten all together in very very small increments while turning the cam each step. Also, make sure the alignment pins are installed for each tower.

Ditto on above......super glue it in place as in Phil's pic. Then if you have to take the push rod out to adjust, you won't have to fish it out again.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40158.html I did the swap a year or so ago.....this will answer most of your questions. It's a fairly easy swap. Guy

I agree with olzed.......your money would be better spent on paying up for a more rust free car. You're looking at hours and hours of expensive work and materials......"Jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it"! IMO Guy

Carl may know......This makes two transition Z's for me. The 71 has the vent on the pillars instead of the tailgate. It has an early tranny and short drive shaft. The 72 has the long drive shaft and late tranny, but the early rear window and seat belts. It has the later console.

Denver Bumper charges $120.00 for each end section and $140.00 for the center bar....... that includes filling the holes and a beautiful chrome application. I haven't had them do a front bumper yet, so I'm guessing $180.00. They do great work and they shipped in 8 days.

Eiji's headed to Japan for a week or two.......give him a call in a couple weeks. As I remember, the price was good too.

Datsunspirit.com They sell cut or pile. I've got their carpets in my Z's.

Eiji and I installed it in his 1983 280ZX on my lift. It's light!

Good idea Mitchell.....give me a little time.

A few more.....

I'm absolutely, positively not buying any more Z's.........and I'm almost sure about that!

Nice bolt kit eh Jonathan?

Thanks OJ.....More.

Ollie.....That's stunning......love the color!

Zedy....That is one beautiful motor.......can't wait to see how she runs. My 73 240Z fly cut pistons in an L24 block with early heads come out of the block .030 inches (too close for comfort), but I shave the pistons .020 inches for clearance....Eiji works it out with the cam grind. Interesting!

You can still buy the engine block stainless steel mesh screens from Nissan for $12.00. You have to remove the pan to install it.

Sorry guys....the auto tranny has to go. No documentation to say it was an automatic tranny car though.....no one will know. I'm going to put the modified L28 block with L24 crank, rods, P79 .040 over pistons. P79 shaved head with the Isky Stage III cam. The engine will look like the stock engine with Z Therapy S/U's......just don't read the numbers. The original engine will sit on an engine stand to remain available for retro-fit if needed. When the engine is out, I'll polish up the original paint under the hood, so everything is original. The bumper over-riders and louvers have been removed....Denver Bumper will fill those holes and re chrome the bumpers to stock specs. The paint on the outside will remain, however the dents (and there are more than meets the eye) will be rubbed out as much as possible by the Dent Wizard. A front spook will be added as well as Panasport wheels. The following thread illustrates how nice the last auto tranny swap worked. Thanks for all suggestions.......http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40158.html

The P90 or P79 head requires shaving .080 off the head, shimming the towers up .080 and using early L28 valves (.080) longer than the P79 valves to get C/R's up. It makes a lot of sense economically to use an N42 or N47 head .....it's a lot cheaper and almost as good.

We put a blade on Brandon's spoiler on his BIMMER to mow the grass.........OJ is the BMW low enough for you? By the way, I just noticed that the only thing in the picture American is the flag :stupid: .........Rising Sun anyone?

Sounds like a story book tale with a happy ending!