Diseazd

Ditto that.....right down the flusher with two new dampers and two worthless bolts. I feel better that I'm not alone....."Another please bartender"!

Dealers choice. I've done it both ways and it really is a 2 man job either way. If you put the engine in first, make sure you support the engine so it doesn't "hang" on the rubber motor mounts. If you put the tranny in first, support the tranny, so it doesn't hang on it's mount. There are difficulties with each method....either will work.

Problem with that, is if the woodruff key isn't perfectly aligned, you'll drive that right through your oil slinger! :stupid:

Yes, I bought 2 premium dampers from MSA.....I ended up throwing them away.....wasn't about to sell my problem to someone else. Don't use those expensive bolts on your stock damper unless you machine that drop down off the washer.

Phillip.....I finally gave up. I bought two performance dampers and they were so tight I was afraid to torque 'em on. I had them machined and still felt uncomfortable. If you use the Nismo performance bolt, don't use it on a stock damper. The drop down on the washer bottoms out on the end of the crank, preventing everything from pulling up tight up front. Been there....done that! Regards. Guy

Tranny first....engine second. Remember to support front of tranny. Either way, two people are really much better. When aligning the motor to tranny, you may need to turn flywheel slightly to align transmission spline.

24 Ounces........Just bought number 5.....a 72 with 36,000 original miles. I think the exhaust is sold. Guy

Don't forget to oil the lips of the seal.....and yes it should be flush with the block unless you have a previous groove in the crank journal, then it should be say .030 inches from flush to contact a clean surface.

I have one in like new condition in Richmond, Virginia if anyone needs one.....pm me if interested. Guy

Thanks Carl....I used him when I bought Jeff's 73. You're right he was excellent!

You bet....trying to catch Jimbo! It's soon to be a manual car though.

I need a good reliable shipper from Las Vegas to Richmond, Virginia......anyone have suggestions? Thanks. Guy

General rule.....oil pressure should be 10 lbs. Per 1000 rpm's ........different gauges can show different readings is what I've found. It should come up when you're driving. Good call Frank.......

I would suggest yes.......Have them clean the block, install new freeze plugs and hone the cylinders. Clean the PCV mesh while your at it.Would then paint the block before reassembly. Block work is pretty cheap.....shouldn't be more than $150.00 for the works. You definitely want to have them hone the cylinders if nothing else. This will make sure your new rings seat properly.

240 Z valves are all the same length unlike the L28.....early long.....P90 and P79 short. Just a note....if you grind the top of the valve stems and use the early lash pads (cupped), they can bottom out on the keepers.....not good! A good head shop will check valve stem height......it's a Hell of a lot easier if you can use all .175 pads instead of a .150 here and a .190 there. Talk to your shop and always get this straight before the work begins. Now we tell you......right?

This whole thing sounds funny. If you are installing an Isky Stage II camshaft, the .175 lash pads should be correct, unless as you stated, the head shop sank the valves so far into the head (probably unlikely if they do this for a living) that they require thinner lash pads. The important thing is to make sure the wipe pattern is centered on each and every rocker arm, so when you fire it up, you don't destroy your new Isky camshaft. If you don't know how to geometry the rockers, read up on it in the book "How to Modify Your Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine". It's critical to get this stuff right.........you don't want to do this a third time. Good Luck

Phillip......Same here....... kD 3087 will fit next to the two towers that present the problem. It ain't easy, but you can get it to work. Easier than removing the cam towers etc. IMO

Eiji is the exception to the rule......a Japanese guy that doesn't do well with computers. He'll tell you the same thing.

Didn't want to say that, but as usual, you're dead on tlorber.

Simple mods are uninspiring........want to impress your date, do intensive head work. The L series motors are fun to drive in stock mode, but not impressive. Simple as mentioned by many is perfect tune and get the lead out! Otherwise get your wallet out.

Me too Jeff......

Jeff....Looks like you used a Weems Lettering Guide (). We used those back in the days at Georgia Tech in our engineering drawing classes. Can't wait to see the finished product.

However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. . .......and a 280 collar.

Yes Zedy....that's the collar. The flywheel Eiji is installing will work with your 240 clutch. IMO, your 240 stuff will be your easiest solution.Your biggest obstacle is going to be installing the B tranny in your early car. The shifter is going to be tight against the tranny hole in your early console. Modding the shifter is no easy task, but you as an engineer will figure it out. Good Luck. Guy

You can use either clutch with either tranny. Both trannies are the same dimensions, so the tranny doesn't care whether it's a 240 or 280 clutch. What is important is that you use a 240 collar and fork with the 240 clutch or if you use the 280 clutch, use the 280 collar and fork. I use 240 Z clutches in all 4 of my Z's, so I can interchange, and always know what I need. 2 of my cars are 280's and 2 are 240's. All are running 240 stock clutches with excellent results! If your set-up currently is running a 240 clutch, you already have the fork, collar and slave for that set-up. Use the 240 clutch and you're home free!