Diseazd
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Everything posted by Diseazd
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I have 2 boosters bought from Black Dragon with the same set up as you mention. I'll have to modify the pedal "U" clamp to fit the larger stud and to fit the brake pedal. Keep us informed with your solution to the modification. Guy -
Once a Datsun guy.....always a Datsun guy. Every time I ever sold a 510 or 240 Z, I always longed to smell the distinctive smell of the interior of a Datsun again. I've owned 911's and yes they are fun, but not quite as easy or fun to wrench as the 240 z. I'm very sure that there is another Z in Arne's future. All IMO!
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55 pounds without a valve cover.......good to see you back James. Cheers
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The only way the car will start and run is if I advance the timing to 30 or 40 degrees. When I get it running I cant retard it past 20 degrees or it sputters and dies. Quote It may not be the timing that's making it run.......a slight twist of the distributor may be making a loose wire connect. Just a thought.
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I agree with Captain.....it sounds electrical to me. If you replaced the coil and condenser, go back to what you had. also check the short ground wire that attaches to the points.....sometimes it gets pinched by the distributor cap if not tucked away. Look carefully at the rotor button and distributor cap for hairline cracks.
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Sure was.......Wish I had more garage space......but when does the madness stop? Why do I want them all?.......because these little cars are so damned addictive....so fun to own and improve and drive. Never would have thought that an original paint Series One would have "snuck out the door" at such a price, especially with such a nice dash and seemingly little rust. Wow... I think the seller should have let the car go the distance in the auction with no Buy it Now.....I think there may have been a lot more bidders waiting to come in. IMO
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Check the tightness of the 2 nuts that attach the mustache bar to the frame and the 2 nuts that attach the diff to the mustache bar.
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Make sure it's TDC compression stroke......remove the #1 plug and rotate engine till the pressure pushes on your finger. That's the compression stroke!
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Blue.....Your illustrations are always awesome, always helpful....keep up the good work.
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It's a fairly easy swap. You'll need a clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder hard line, a clutch pedal (the pedal box should already be there), a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder. Don't forget that you need a brass bushings in the rear of the crank (the autos don't have one installed). The drive shaft should be the same. The speedometer gear should be for the 3:54 rear end, so it depends what the 5 speed rear end was. Of course you need a manual flywheel and manual flywheel bolts. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but others can chime in.
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It would be nice if someone like Dave (z'sondabrain) or Esprit could work this mod out and manufacture these shifters with the correct bend and angles to make this install a drop in. I own 2 early cars with A transmissions that I would love to be able to convert. I think they would fetch a nice price.
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PJOE just did the same thing with his shifter, but used heat to bend the B shifter to fit the console without cutting the shifter or welding it. It too worked without cutting the tunnel or console. Nice work!
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Your opinion......
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I agree with Gary.....Uni-syn is simple and fast. The best bang for the buck.
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It's trial and error.......make sure you are at top dead center on the compression stroke. Check the FSM for setting.......the half moon on the shaft should be exactly at 11:20, small section to front. It ain't rocket science. Do it right....you'll be happy you did.
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Nice car......looks original other than overspray on front strut tower nuts. Carl .......good to see you're still around. This car makes me want to place a bid, but I don't want to get as crazy as Jimbo!
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I would recommend using the bump stop.......not the GM mount. It's a lot easier install. You'll need to cut 2 of the little circles off. IMO
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My diff mount came off in 2 pieces . It's a 2 1/2 hour job, but by just hanging the diff off the mustache bar, it saves you a ton of time. The hardest part is getting to the driveshaft bolts and lining up the holes on the R/T mount.......Go do it!
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Just installed my fourth R/T mount in my 73. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and hang it aside. Loosen the 2 nuts attaching the diff to the mustache bar as much as you can without removing them. Remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket that holds the diff mount as well as the bolt attaching the diff mount. Remove the bracket. Now remove the diff mount long bolts holding the diff mount. Remove the 4 bolts holding the diff strap and remove it. Install the R/T mount (saw off 1 1/2 rings from the bump stop before installing). It takes some coaxing to align the holes (a big hammer and punch). Reinstall the new diff mount with the long bolts. Reinstall everything. You may need to remove the exhaust also, but that depends. It's a super upgrade......you'll love it.
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That's obvious Captain!
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http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf Try this site........It should help make sure you're set up correctly. Then go to bleeding. Guy
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Nyuck! Nyuck! Nyuck!
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Bruce and Steve are "The Man". Good job on making your 73 much improved!