Diseazd

Upon initial start-up, keep the rpm's above 2000 for the first 20 minutes. When you take it for it's maiden ride, vary the rpm's and let the engine drag you down in your lower gears a number of times.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42488-New-engine&highlight= Ted.....Sorry I came in late to your thread. Is this the engine you're trying to build? I haven't finished it yet, but it sounds like what you're trying to build. I can't wait to see how it runs. The P79 head is ready to be bolted on. Good Luck..........Guy

Dave....I agree with Jon Mortenson.....I've got two Stage II builds and two Stage III builds. Go with the Stage III cam. You'll be happy you did......you can really feel the difference between the two. Guy

Bruce Palmer drives one.

The 2nd picture is G/C coilovers. Welcome to the site. Guy

I recently bought the early M/C from my Nissan dealer.......try Courtesy in Texas if your local dealer can't find them. Price was in line.

Thanks Mike......

Ditto Mitchell.......I've got it in 3 out of 4 of my Z's......works perfect. I need 1 more.....Any chance Dave makes another batch?

There are some super motors and numbers being thrown out, some nice builds, but the thread is about the L24. Nobody builds better motors than Rebello and Coffey......I don't dispute that. All I'm saying is.......does anyone have a street driven Z with an L24 (NA and non turbo) that puts 200 h.p. To the rear wheels that will run on pump gas? I'd love to see how it could be done.......It would amaze me!

Sorry Julio......Didn't mean to sound arrogant......212 h.p. At the crank is different than at the rear wheels. Really nice numbers.

Show me your dyno run......I say B.S. To your claim of 212 h.p........I have 2 L28's with every option N.A. Available. The best we could get was 172 rear wheel h.p. Like I say....post your dyno sheet. Talk is easy....show me the money!

Good Luck in a street able 240......a lot of people make the claim......dynos don't lie. You'd have to spend a ton, run 100 octane at $8.00 a gallon and while you're at it , just paint a number on the side. IMO

Sorry old boy.....A new cam,a new rocker and a new oiler bar. Not too expensive! Easier to do with the head off.

Was the number 1 lobe the one that wiped before? Looks like lack of oil. Did you put a new oil bar or use the old one?

Good choice.......I never wanted to say anything, but that was the only thing I didn't like about your car. Now it's perfect!

Lee.....Rich's post 184 clearly shows the lower radiator bracket was not blacked out.Carl Beck's pics that he e mailed me also shows the lower bracket is not blacked out. See post 184 for reference. Guy

Here is a photo of the one from my old 510 s. I pulled it all over town ......John Coffey is right.....the existing brackets and mounting points are tough!

I towed a 510 with a tow bar hooked to the front bumper brackets......it towed perfect. Remove the front bumper and bolt the tow bar to the brackets. It'll tow like a dream. BAP Geon (local parts store) sells tow bars that are adjustable.

double post

Zedy......Did you get rid of a pinstripe on your car?

Mark....PM sent....Guy

If you want knowledgable sales people, call MSA. Black Dragon sells mostly good stuff, but every once in a while you'll get a Taiwan or Korean product.....theit sales people won't be able to tell you which is which.

I always buy Nissan when available. The windshield seal is still available......I just installed one in my 71 resto. Perfect fit.

Black Dragon sells them......or used to.

It changes everything.......you'll need a different clutch and pressure plate (for the 240mm flywheel)and a clutch collar to work with the turbo (2 plus 2) clutch. Don't use the turbo clutch IMO unless you've got over 250 h.p........ The juice ain't worth the squeeze!