Diseazd

"I don't drink often, but when I drink, I drink often!"

Democracy is in trouble when "The number of people who work for a living are outnumbered by the number of people who vote for a living".

I had an E31 with exactly the same problem in number 6. It was caused by electrolysis. A reputable shop can fix it for $50.00 to $75.00.

Don't forget to check and see if your choke mechanism is hanging up after using your chokes to start the car. This is very common and the car will stumble if one carb or the other fails to pop back in. If it stumbles, reach your hand under to where the adjustment wheel is and push up. If it's stuck down, you'll hear a distinct snap when it pops back in. This could have been your problem in the first place and you fixed it by accident.

I agree. There's a small weep hole dead center under the front of the water pump. Put your finger under the pump and see if it's damp after driving. The drip would "hit the fan" and sling the coolant to the side.

.........then balance the front to rear linkage at 3,000 rpm with the uni-syn.

You betcha! That hole cost me more than the lift. The lift is absolutely awesome......anyone considering one should just do it! It's not a skylight though.....those are 3 florescent light fixtures up there.

Thanks CW240Z...... <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5162398454/" title="IMG_7341 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1383/5162398454_2b38e2112d_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="IMG_7341" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5162397140/" title="IMG_7311 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5162397140_5939bacf55_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="IMG_7311" /></a>

Problem was the gauge itself. Plugged a new gauge in and it worked perfect.Thanks for the suggestions.

Either or.........you'll get arguments for each. Both will work just fine! IMO

If you do pull the engine with tranny attached, don't forget to drain the transmission oil and wrap the the rear with plastic. Otherwise, you'll have two quarts of thick oil on your garage floor. Right Mark?

Use the clutch disc and pressure plate that you have now, use the bearing,collar and release lever from the 4 speed in the 5 speed and everything will work just fine. The dimensions of the 4 speed and 5 speed are the same.

Mitch......The A/F chart is at the bottom of the run........the A/F mix was incredibly constant throughout the range. The dyno operator said it was about as good as it gets. Bruce and Steve.....this should put to rest the argument about the SU's running out of gas on a modified L28. Keep up the excellent work at Z Therapy!

Here is the Dyno sheet from yesterday.

I'll believe it when I see it BP!

I just put a new dash in my 72 Z. After installation, all systems work with the exception of the temp side of the gauge (the oil pressure gauge works). Both systems work off of a common plug, so I know the plug was connected. Any ideas why the gauge doesn't work? We put working gauges in the dash from my car, so I know it worked before installation in the new dash. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Guy

The first picture of the gasket looks like a possible leak in the lower right of the fire ring. Head gasket leaks are hard to see......a leak down test is a must as compression tests don't always show the leak. My son's BMW turbo engine had a leak that was compressing his cooling system. Turns out it was caused by oil being pushed out of the head stud threads and getting under the gasket. I never really could visibly see the leak, but the machine shop could and a new gasket installed on a super clean and dry block solved the problem. Good luck .......Guy

Steve....Did you check your eyebrows in the block to make sure they didn't undercut your gasket? The detail in these pics of the block aren't very good, but it seems to me I remember your previous pics looked like they were pretty deep and wide. Just a thought. Guy

Don't forget to put a support under the rear of the motor so it doesn't "hang" on the motor mounts when you remove the transmission.

Zedy......Doesn't look like much leaking on the tank.....I guess the small gas line could be the problem (JB Weld or epoxy should seal that imo). Have you checked around your gas cap. The tangs can be adjusted so the gasket on your gas cap gets a tighter seal. Just a thought. Beautiful car...nice garage! Guy

http://devour.com/video/vintage-race-car-crashes/ Video on real racing..........:stupid:

Don't rule out the O ring at the sending unit.......That's a much easier fix and easy to visually check out.

Call your Nissan dealer. I bought 3 brand new block filters a month ago. $12.00 a piece.

If you didn't forget to install the worm gear () and you installed the distributor drive shaft and oil pump as one unit (distributor rotor is turning), then my guess is you're getting oil pressure, just not enough to register. Remove all 6 plugs and turn it over for 30 to 40 seconds. Watch the gauge closely for minimal movement. If the needle moves at all, you're good to go. It won't move much at that rpm.

Cheese......My mistake......PlastiKote Chevy Orange Engine Paint will probably work, but I used DupliColor de 1620 Chevrolet Orange......It matched perfect and goes on nice. About $7.00 a can. Guy