Diseazd

We installed the new L24 in the 73 tonight without the transmission being in the car. I hooked up all gas, alternator and electrical wires less the starter of course (no transmission). I noticed the linkage for the carbs that starts at the accelerator pedal linkage is a different diminsion than the early cars. The bracket that the connecting linkage slides into on the firewall has two spacers to extend the bracket about an inch and a quarter forward. Were the dimensions on the 73 cars different from the early cars? What combination of linkage do I need to make the accelerator linkages work? Thanks Guy

Bill......Don't use all of ZPIZZAMAN's parts.......save some for me!! Fred's a pretty good source. Good job on restoring a low number Z......Keep us updated. Guy

Mine did that a couple weeks ago. It was leaking between the down pipe and the manifold (the two hole gasket that costs about $4.50). I bought a tube of muffler seal, put two gaskets together along with muffler seal between the gaskets and on the downpipe and manifold surfaces, bolted her up.....let it harden for 5 hours and now there no pop back. You can see if this is the problem by putting her up on a lift while running and hold your hand around the connection. If it's leaking, you'll probably be able to feel the leak.....I could. Guy

Click on "Sets" at the top.....Five and Dime has quite the collection of pics! http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/sets/72157600346077563/

Roger that......Thanks Steve.

Next step.......I removed all brackets and clips for the auto shifter from the console. I ordered the (8) clips from black dragon. I bought the inner and outter boot from Mike at Banzai. I know how to install the inner boot, but is there a secret to installing the outter (leather) boot? Do I Start from the front of the opening or side or rear with installing the clips? Do I fold the edges of the leather or just hold it flat against the lip and start clipping it on? Any advice would be appreciated. Guy

Well said.......Delta Camshafts will regrind your rockers for about $5.00 each.....a considerable savings over Nissan at $295.00 for 12. Centering the wipe pattern can mean life or death for your camshaft.....it is relatively easy if you've got basic skills, however will require time and effort and $$$ to get the proper lash pads. Check the "How to Modify" book to get the general idea. Other things come into play also, like valve seal to retainer clearance.....ask lots of questions. Degreeing (timing) a cam is probably best left to the experts. Most wrench heads don't have a dial indicator in their toolbox! Good luck......Guy

Will do Steve.....by the way....I made a jumper for the inhibitor like you suggested......got my pedals installed with springs etc......you need tiny hands and fingers to get in the pedal box....I have neither. We're going to install the tranny next weekend, then the master cylinder and clutch line, then the new modified L24....I appreciate everyone helping me on this.................Guy

Ken......Thanks for your reply......The inner shift boot retainer looks easy.....how about the outter leather shift boot cover.....how is that attached? As far as the hydraulic clutch line, I think I'm going to get Eiji to make me a flexible hard line to go from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Mine has no stationary clutch line clip either. Oh by the way....where do you buy an inner shift boot retainer? Thanks........Guy

Hi OZ........That's definitely a different approach.......That would remind me that it was an auto-car......I'm trying to forget!

Will do......Thanks for your help. By the way if anyone wants the automatic transmission (41,000 original miles), they can have it if they can pick it up. It worked perfect. Guy

Steve......That would be the 2 female connector wires (black with yellow stripes). If I splice the 2 together, will that solve the ignition problem? Also, out of curiosity, what are the red and black wires?

I just pulled my 73 auto transmission today. A couple questions.....1) I unplugged the 4 wires from the passenger side of the auto-t .......which wires do I splice together to over-come the car thinking it's in park to start? 2 wires were male ( both red and black) and 2 were female. 2) I plan to install a 77 five speed. Does that require any cutting. Also, I removed the shifter plate on the console and unbolted the shifter assembly. Now what do I use for a plate to cover the inner and outter shift boot for the manual shifter? 3) The radiator had two tranny fluid lines going into the bottom of the radiator. I removed the lines.......Do I have to plug those inlets? I assume not since the tranny fluid was just runnig thru the radiator to keep it cool.If no oil is left, why plug 'em. Thanks Guy

Why make them yourself when you can get the whole nine yards from Eiji? The kit includes....oil pan bolts,all front cover bolts, fan nuts, water pump bolts, timing marker and bolt, the two front head to front cover bolts, distributor bolts, valve cover bolts, thermostat housing bolts, front observation cover bolts, oil pump bolts, all corresponding washers and some I've probably missed...... all marked and packed as to what they are and where they go! The kit makes an ordinary motor special.

Good Luck.....I think it would be much easier to buy a used air cleaner with the gaskets intact off of ebay. They're pretty cheap......clean up the inside with 000 steel wool .......no one sees that part anyway! IMO

The kit I bought a couple years back had the two gaskets that fit between the air filter base and the front of the carbs.....no idea on the part numbers.....most air cleaners have these gaskets still intact. All you need to do is carefully mask around them if you're doing a restoration. You might PM Bruce Palmer at Z Therapy.......I think he used to sell restored air cleaners and might be able to help you out on some gaskets.....while you're at it get your SU's rebuilt.....Steve needs the money to try and catch Greg!

Felpro includes that gasket in their top end gasket kit.......the Z Barn will have your bolts. www.zbarn.com

I had the same problem once.....It was a loose connection on the coil. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze all the female connectors on the coil so they slide on snugly. See if that helps.

Beautiful car Julio.....nice work!

You probably did bend a valve if you've got stock valve springs. Just run a compression check......if you bent a valve, you'll read "0" in that cylinder. If you put your finger over the plug hole and it didn't push compressed air against your finger, my guess is you're running "0" compression in that cylinder.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37053 Read this......but once again, it's probably not the problem if you drove it for two years with no problem. PCV valve is a much easier fix. Also, when there is a lot of humidity in the air, your engine can have the appearance of smoking, when it's just condensation burning out of your exhaust system (clears up in 5 or so minutes). Check your plugs for oil if not PCV. Guy

Did you use a higher lift cam? If so did you check retainer to seal clearance? If not, your retainer could be pounding on your valve seals......any cam over .475 lift could cause a problem. The above Felpro seal that Zforce mentions would solve the problem (the seal is shorter than stock for increased clearance). Jon Mortenson has a good thread on that exact problem. Probably isn't your problem, but something to think about. Guy

Double post

I know this is an old post, but not only should you check for slack in the choke cable (off position), buy also put your hand under the carb and push up on the choke nozzle to make sure it doesn't have a little bind that prevents it from closing.

Don't assume anything on this forum....that's why it's such a great source of info.....thanks for that tip.