Diseazd

Match the bearing collar to the clutch........240z collar to 240z clutch........280z collar to 280z clutch etc.

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Read through this site.....It'll give you a number of useful tips. Punch marks are on top side of the rings. Instructions should be included with your ring set. If you are uncomfortable installing the rings, most machine shops will install a set of rings for $10.00 to $15.00.

If the holes don't line up pretty close, I'd get a set of Clevite rod bearings from NAPA or factory rod bearings from Nissan. If the oil expander and rails are installed properly, compressing the rings won't upset the butting of the expander. I've never used those rings before........some seem to be easier to install the oil rings. Perfect Circle are great as well as stock Nissan.......Hastings oil rings are a pain to install (so much so that I tossed a set).

Be very careful not to drag the edge of the screwdriver across the inside of the tranny housing, or it'll never seal again! That surface needs no gouges. One more thing you can try is to drill a couple self tapping screws into the rubber frame of the seal and pull with a couple pair of vise-grips. It ain't pretty but it works. Guy

The directions that came with my MC reads as follows: 1) Clamp MC securely by mounting flange to bench vise. 2) Remove and discard factory installed protective plugs from the outlet ports and place a catch container under the MC. 3) Fill the reservoirs with new brake fluid. When the fluid begins to drip from the outlet ports, securely install threaded plugs. This provides lubrication to the piston seals before bleeding. 4) Using a bleeding tool or other suitable bleeding tool, begin slowly depressing the MC piston using 3/4 to 1" strokes. Wait 15 seconds between strokes to avoid aeration of fluid. Continue this procedure until the piston can't be depressed more than 1/8" and no air bubbles are visible in the fluid reservoir. 5) Remove the MC from the vise and install in vehicle, leaving the plugs installed. 6) Remove one plug at a time and connect the steel brake lines from the vehicle to the MC. 7) The wheel cylinders and calipers must now be bled to remove any remaining air in the system. I would think layers of towels are always a prudent idea. Good Luck!

Nice avatar Frank..........Couldn't figure out who the new guy was!:bulb:

Mark 11:25 on the inside of the distributor mount on the timing cover with a magic marker......get your wife to sit up top and tell you when the tang lines up. My wife's an expert!

Installing rubber seals is on the list that only professionals should attempt.....the longer I work on Z's the longer that list grows!

Thanks OZ.....Don't use that Nismo aftermarket bolt though (at least with the stock damper).....If you look closely you'll see a drop down on the washer....It prevents everything from locking up up front(in the L series motors with stock damper). If you use one(in an L series motor with stock damper) mill the drop down completely off. Hope you're doing great. I still want to build that L28 with the L24 crank,rods and E31. Maybe soon. Regards Guy

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025106/" title="IMG_8417 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4608025106_708409f017_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8417" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025450/" title="IMG_8418 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4608025450_f81e28fcca_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8418" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025780/" title="IMG_8420 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1333/4608025780_b4768dfcd0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8420" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607416805/" title="IMG_8422 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4607416805_cb89d2075d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8422" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607417185/" title="IMG_8421 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1005/4607417185_81bdd342e0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8421" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607417769/" title="IMG_8423 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1261/4607417769_0d96060eca_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8423" /></a> Chuck is moving again.....Paint soon!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4592994467/" title="IMG_8144 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1148/4592994467_624ef696bc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8144" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4592993839/" title="IMG_8143 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3382/4592993839_5b45a09114_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8143" /></a> Block was perfect all along.....now the pistons are too.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608028862/" title="IMG_8438 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4608028862_30d55756d7_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8438" /></a> The pistons were cut .030".....Deck height is now "0".....cost....$80.00.

The early 280 dampers are honed in about 3/8 of an inch so you can feel the key engage before torqueing down the crank bolt (a big improvement over the 240 dampers). If the key isn't centered in the damper it can cause big problems. They are still available from Nissan ($180).

Super.....you're good to go!

My machine shop said they just did an engine exactly like mine (73 pistons in L24 block). Evidently 73 pistons need to be milled .030 inch for 0 deck height. They can mill the pistons with rods attached. I'm going to have them mill .025 inch for a positive .005 inch deck height ( most experts I've talked to including Dave Rebello say .035 to .038 inch clearance is minimum), so you could actually have plus .015 inch and still be OK.( gasket is .050 inch when torqued). As far as material available to mill......the valve fly-cuts are a lot more than .030, so that shouldn't be a problem. Looks like I'll be zipping it up shortly.....I'll update when I get the pistons back from the shop.

Green should be perfect.

When I build my engines (and I've built a lot of them), I take the crank to a machine shop..... get it checked for straightness and make sure it mics to standard....I also have them polished. If the crank checks out, I install Clevite standard bearings and just bolt her up. I've never had a problem. Datsun engines don't wear unless really abused. In 20 or so engines, I've never turned a crank or rod journal and you usually can't feel any wear on the cam lobes or at the top ridge of the cylinder. It's always prudent to check things though.....let us know what your clearances are and if you have other questions as you go forth! Good Luck.....Guy

My How to Modify book gives .0025-.0028 inches (rod) and.0025-.0034 inches (mains). The 240Z factory manual gives .0008-.0028 inches (mains) and .0006-.0026 inches (rods). Why don't you plasti-gauge your bearings and see what you come up with. .0026 on the rods and .0028 on the mains would be in the ballpark. The How to modify numbers would give you a little looser engine but if your crank is standard, they're always pretty much on the numbers. Oh by the way.....I don't think your number one main journal has two holes(either would the bearing shell for that journal)......let me know if I'm wrong. Thanks Guy

The answer to your question is main bearings are .0025-.0034 inches. Rod bearings are .0025-.0028 inches. Use plasti-gauge.

Gumby.....Did they mill your piston with the rod attached?

Thanks Fred....seems the 73 flycut pistons are a slight different size than the 70,71 or 72. From what I extracted from the knowledge bank at the Mitty was that there's enough clearance on a street driven Z (no rod stretch) to bolt her up and run. I seem to have about .020 clearance and it's only around the outter edge of the combustion chamber. Andy (70 Cam Guy) found a .020 soft copper shim at NAPA if needed. Thanks Guy

Talked to Carl Beck and Jim Frederick at the Mitty.......The 73 pistons come out of the block by .030". It's not the block! The .020 clearance should be plenty for a street car......They are currently building one in Florida with 73 pistons also. I'll build it onward and post pics of the finished product. Oh...by the way....we had breakfast with John Morton, Pete Brock and Les in Atlanta. A world of engine knowledge at that event. Guy

He's not only my son but my partner......someone has to make a living while I knock out drinks with you Ron! Guy

12 foot lbs. to max of 15 foot lbs.........no more or you'll strip the aluminum head.

I just talked to Z Doc in Roanoke. He brought up a good point. The machine shop should have attached the front cover when decking.......otherwise the block and front cover will not match up to the block deck......learning is fun!!!!:stupid: