Diseazd

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37910 Take a look at this thread.

Front oil seal......pull the radiator, pull the damper, pull out the old seal and install new seal. IMO

Speaking of what does it cost.........How's your restoration coming along Brian?

Russ.....The L28 rods are 130.2mm center to center as are the L26 rods......they have the same Nissan part #'s therefore are the same. The cranks are also the same for the L26 and the L28 (each have the same 79mm stroke) and are therefore the same. What you have with an L24 block and an L28 crank and rods is an L26. The displacement on the the L28 block with L24 crank and rods and L28 pistons is 2575 cc's, or if you bore it out .040" you get a displacement of 2636 cc's ( I'm quoting OZCONNECTION on those numbers). Re the 2.7L Rebello.........I assume he's using the same Diesel crank that they use in the 3.1 stroker.....don't know what rods and pistons Dave uses for that build. Guy

Walter.....You are right....the L24 bored more than .080 will have trouble with ring seal due to cylinder wall flexing according to the old "How to Modify" book. If you want a big bore L24, your best bet is an L28 block with L24 crank, L24 rods and L28 pistons (same pin height as the L24). If you want to build a 3.1 stroker , you'll need an L28 block.....preferredly the F54.

Lee.......You're really doing it right. Looks beautiful! Guy

$1,000.00 is a steal.......Get the number of the machine shop to verify the work. Here's a good thread to help..........http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Good Luck.

Thanks Mitchell.......If you're ever in Richmond, please look me up. Guy

I don't either Arne.....I just remember when I bid on a nice Texas Z a couple years ago, he mentioned that he had used the 280Z one piece seal with good results. I was wondering if anyone had tried the Nissan 280 seals( he said he had bought them from Nissan)? Guy

Yes.....and the work is beautiful!

Gary.....When I get Carlos to do my head work, I provide all the parts......He charges $450.00 for the head ( includes cleaning the head, installing new hardened seats, new guides, valve job and surfacing the head ). Re the block.......He'll hot tank the block, bore to your specs, hone the cylinders and install brass freeze plugs (brass freeze plugs included) for $200.00. For an extra $50.00, he'll paint the block original Datsun blue. He will obviously charge shipping and handling charges if not hand delivered. Guy

I've heard that the Nissan 280Z (one piece seals) work great in the early cars........anyone tried those?

FYI.......An example of Carlos' work at Citizen's Machine Shop.......An E31 with hardened seats, bronze valve guides and L28 exhaust valves. The block is an L24 bored .040 over. He's a real perfectionist.

Mike.....Same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago. The culprit from what I can figure out is hard runs before the thermostat has opened. In other words if you get on it before the engine has fully warmed up and allowed the thermostat to open, the water pump is building maximum pressure. If the thermostat is open, your radiator cap can release the pressure......Make sense? Guy

The first 3 pics above are of the L24 coming out........the rest are of the L28 going in. Yes it is the same engine as in the rest of the pics, The engine runs great.....I'll post final dyno results sometime in the next few weeks. Guy

Match the bearing collar to the clutch........240z collar to 240z clutch........280z collar to 280z clutch etc.

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Read through this site.....It'll give you a number of useful tips. Punch marks are on top side of the rings. Instructions should be included with your ring set. If you are uncomfortable installing the rings, most machine shops will install a set of rings for $10.00 to $15.00.

If the holes don't line up pretty close, I'd get a set of Clevite rod bearings from NAPA or factory rod bearings from Nissan. If the oil expander and rails are installed properly, compressing the rings won't upset the butting of the expander. I've never used those rings before........some seem to be easier to install the oil rings. Perfect Circle are great as well as stock Nissan.......Hastings oil rings are a pain to install (so much so that I tossed a set).

Be very careful not to drag the edge of the screwdriver across the inside of the tranny housing, or it'll never seal again! That surface needs no gouges. One more thing you can try is to drill a couple self tapping screws into the rubber frame of the seal and pull with a couple pair of vise-grips. It ain't pretty but it works. Guy

The directions that came with my MC reads as follows: 1) Clamp MC securely by mounting flange to bench vise. 2) Remove and discard factory installed protective plugs from the outlet ports and place a catch container under the MC. 3) Fill the reservoirs with new brake fluid. When the fluid begins to drip from the outlet ports, securely install threaded plugs. This provides lubrication to the piston seals before bleeding. 4) Using a bleeding tool or other suitable bleeding tool, begin slowly depressing the MC piston using 3/4 to 1" strokes. Wait 15 seconds between strokes to avoid aeration of fluid. Continue this procedure until the piston can't be depressed more than 1/8" and no air bubbles are visible in the fluid reservoir. 5) Remove the MC from the vise and install in vehicle, leaving the plugs installed. 6) Remove one plug at a time and connect the steel brake lines from the vehicle to the MC. 7) The wheel cylinders and calipers must now be bled to remove any remaining air in the system. I would think layers of towels are always a prudent idea. Good Luck!

Nice avatar Frank..........Couldn't figure out who the new guy was!:bulb:

Mark 11:25 on the inside of the distributor mount on the timing cover with a magic marker......get your wife to sit up top and tell you when the tang lines up. My wife's an expert!

Installing rubber seals is on the list that only professionals should attempt.....the longer I work on Z's the longer that list grows!

Thanks OZ.....Don't use that Nismo aftermarket bolt though (at least with the stock damper).....If you look closely you'll see a drop down on the washer....It prevents everything from locking up up front(in the L series motors with stock damper). If you use one(in an L series motor with stock damper) mill the drop down completely off. Hope you're doing great. I still want to build that L28 with the L24 crank,rods and E31. Maybe soon. Regards Guy

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025106/" title="IMG_8417 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4608025106_708409f017_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8417" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025450/" title="IMG_8418 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4608025450_f81e28fcca_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8418" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4608025780/" title="IMG_8420 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1333/4608025780_b4768dfcd0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8420" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607416805/" title="IMG_8422 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4607416805_cb89d2075d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8422" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607417185/" title="IMG_8421 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1005/4607417185_81bdd342e0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8421" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4607417769/" title="IMG_8423 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1261/4607417769_0d96060eca_b.jpg" width="1024" height="684" alt="IMG_8423" /></a> Chuck is moving again.....Paint soon!