Diseazd

Oh my gosh.....The black Z was my first Z. Bought her in 1970....the car would really roll! We used to run her at "Road Atlanta" with the Corvette Club.Every cop in Dekalb Co. Georgia knew that car........That's one reason I had to move to Richmond. The "hottie" is Zero Z's mom! The other Datsun's followed only about 10% are shown....at least a half dozen 510's and another dozen Z's including the 3 I now own.

Yes.......but we're waiting to see if the diff mount fixes his "Clunk!"

Isky Cams includes a flyer with their new reground cams....'Motor Oil Warning" Not all oils are created equal. When installing a high performance camshaft, just any oil will not give your new cam installation sufficient protection during the critical beak-in period (the mating-in of virgin metal surfaces). As of Jan. 04 the gov't has mandated complete elimination of the critical anti-wear additive package (zinc/phosphorus) from all "SM" rated (street legal) motor oils to protect catalytic converters. Isky recommends the following motor oils for max cam lobe and lifter protection before and after break-in period because they are the only conventional mineral based oils available with generous levels of zinc/phosphorous additive package. Brad Penn Penn-Grade I;Pennzoil "GTP" Racing Oil; Valvoline Racing Oil (VR-1). If none are available your GM dealership will have a supplement for your over the counter oils EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) part # 1052367 (16 oz.) bottle to be added to each oil change. EOS contains a generous amount of zinc and phosphorous to bring normal oils up to pre 04 standards. Cost is $9.00 per bottle.

Carl.....Anyone making the bracket that you show.....my metal working skills ain't too good! How about it Jimmy Z......something that you could machine? I'll take three. Guy

Isky Cams includes a flyer with all their new reground cams that it's imperative to break in their new cams with an oil containing ZDDP. I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.

Jim.......I'll check with him and let you know.....you can probably google local metal works places in your area....Jim said it was only $20-$30. Guy

Jim........That is the most awesome correct fix of a gas tank that I've seen! Beautiful job! My friends who runs British Car Service in Richmond, Va. cuts his and has them galvanized. He says it ain't that expensive. Thanks for a good thread. Guy

A 50 cent O ring will fix your sending unit leak........Drive off the lock ring with a screw driver....pull out sending unit and old O ring.......install new O ring, then repace unit and tap around the lock ring.

Phred......That makes sense.....The block was bored out .040 and the intake valves are 1mm (.040 in. ) oversize so it would seem that the extra overhang of the valve would be offset by the overbore from stock....but the valve is coming down at an angle and that probably makes a difference. I think I'll go ahead and eyebrow just for breathing if nothing else.I always turn my engines over by hand also ( experience is a good teacher). Guy

Phred.....The block is an L24 bored .040 over (+ 1mm) The intake is 1mm oversized which means the valve is actually hanging out .020 more than stock on the block side of the valve. The pistons are flat top with valve reliefs. Valve lift is .480 inches. Of course I'll turn it over by hand to check clearance, but do you think that I would have to notch the block for clearance purposes?

I just got my E31 head back from the Z Doctor. The head has an Isky Stage II cam with .480 lift. The head was not shaved other than clean up. We put 260 Z exhaust valves; 35mm vs 33mm (1.38 in. vs. 1.30 in.). Intakes are 1mm oversize (43mm vs. 42mm ; 1.69 in. vs. 1.65 in.) Is there any mods that have to be done to the block for clearance reasons, or should I be OK as is? I know eyebrowing the block will let it breathe, but is it necessary for clearance?

Ditto Bruce......Guy

Bruce....I get your clue, however the tank was clean inside.......must have been bad gas! I'm redoing another tank that is like new on the outside but has brown powdery surface rust all over the inside ( the car wasn't driven since 1979). I've seen the Red Kote at radiator shops and it looks like red "Twizzlers". Now I'm not knocking "Twizzlers" but it was stretchy and didn't really turn me on (however it must be a good product or motorcycle people wouldn't use it) I think the overwhelming advice is POR 15 and I trust what I've heard here to give it a try. Thanks again for all help and advice. Guy

Has anyone used POR 15 gas tank sealer in their Z gas tank to seal the inside of the tank? Do you think you're better off living with a little rust or sealing the tank? Any other solutions?

Thanks Jon,Steve and Winger.......once again you've helped me do it right! Guy

Steve......I put the longer DS, late diff mount and rear diff crossmember (hanger) so I could update to the R200 which I already own. The restraining strap is anchored at a different point on the early 71's and 70's than on your 72. It was a tight fit when I put the R180 back in with the new set up. I'm wondering if anyone has put the R200 into the early 70,71 Z's and if the restraining strap was a tight fit. You've brought up a good point though.....can I use my early half shafts (will they fit the R200 without mods)? Also.....did you see my post on the Richmond Show in October? If you come up for the show we can park the 2 lime Z's together!" Two Limes Don't Make a Right"........Sorry Ron I couldn't resist that one!

When putting an R200 diff into an early Z, is there any clearance problems with the diff restraining strap? I had to "squeeze her in" when I converted my early 71 to the longer drive shaft and diff mount. Will I have the same problem with the diff strap when I change out the 180 to the 200?

Call me "Old Fashion", but unless it was built by Robello or someone like that, I like to see the bottom end.......besides it's like a precision puzzle....it's a blast to take apart and put together!

The 7th annual "People's Choice Z Car Show" will be held on Sunday October 19 from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. at Victory Nissan; 11401 West Broad St.; Richmond, Virginia. This is a well attended show with a number of Z's from the D.C. area as well. I'd love to see some of the East Coast members in person. Updates can be found at www.richmondzcar.com. Why not make plans for a nice road trip in October. Guy

Anyone know where Hick Wumble's car is?

Steve-It's 43 ftlbs. in the Haynes manual also. The bolt is hardened steel and so is the cam (female threads) so it probably can take a 100 or so ftlbs. ,but it was quite a discrepancy so thought I would bring it up.By the way as soon as they announce dates on the Richmond show I'll post it. Guy

I always replace the chain and tensioner when I rebuild old Z engines. The chain kit from Motorsports has tensioner, guides, chain and sprockets. I use Nismo adjustable cam sprockets when I rebuild. This is the first time I've even fitted the crank sprocket.......I certainly agree that you can't trust anything but the real thing. Just a heads up.....don't use the crank sprocket from the timing chain kit.

Anyone else notice that the camshaft sprocket bolt torque in the 'How to Modify" book by Frank Honsoweltz on page 86 is 100-108 ft.lbs. and the torque given in the factory manual is 43 ft. lbs.? Which is it? Also......has anyone had any problem with the crank sprocket provided with the Motorsport Japanese timing chain kit. The key slot is too loose allowing the sprocket to rock back and forth?

Bart-If you're using a new cam, you will also need to use new rockers (Nissan is the choice) as the old rockers break in to the original stock cam. A stage III cam will require different lash pads to get rocker geometry correct. Isky regrinds Datsun cams and provides the correct springs and lash pads. The reground cams are metal compatable with the original steel. www.ISKYCAMS.COM Good Luck Guy

Sorry Will....It was on the back of a flatbed tow truck and he wanted $350.00 for it. My wife would have killed me if I had unloaded it in the yard. Believe me it was nasty....inside and out! I mean rotten!