Diseazd

Very,very nice work! Great to see the job done right.

Thanks Nissanman........I've always installed the seal after installing the crank. I'll try it your way this time. Your car looks great! I couldn't open your photosite.......send some pics, I'd like to see more. My cars were featured in your www.viczcar.com. Looks like you Aussies have some great cars. Thanks again for your help. GUY

Thanks Mate! I'll position it as you say. Do you install the seal then tighten the cap or do you install the cap and drive in as the factory illustrates?

Carl is absolutely right.....Z's were not perfect from the factory. Just take a "hard righthander" in a stock Z with stock wheels ( That'll cause white knuckles ) Now add a set of Ibachs, Tokicos and some 7" rims and soft tires! That's what Morton and Sharp showed the world at Road Atlanta in the early 70's.

Really? My 28 year old son's dream car is a Datsun 510! And when we go to any auto event with the 240's, it's gen X shooting their camera phones.

Anyone got an easy way to move out the rear seal when there's a slight groove from the old seal on the rear crank journal? I was thinking about cutting a round shim out of good gasket material to shim her out a couple thousands! Guy

The 60's muscle car generation is going to give way to the Xers. Hemi Cudas bring $1,000,000.00. The Xers grew up with the 510 and 240Z.When they get the"Bucks" that's what they will be buying(and rust never sleeps).

yes.......black!

I was looking for a front clip at a junk yard in Virginia Beach. After buying the clip, I asked the guy if he had any more Z parts. He reached up in the attic of his outdoor shed and pulled out 2 OEM new door panels. He wanted $100 a piece. I offered $75 and he took it. Miracles still happen! Guy

Looks like Eiji's! Guy

Mark I love your Z also. White is a great color. You can see pictures of the white Z on the FLIKR link in my signature below. Also they featured all my cars on www.viczcar.com. Guy

Thanks JMARK and TTIGER. I bought the green Z from Amarello, Texas. The white Z was totally restored in Arizona and the Safari Gold Z was bought in Richmond, Virginia. We built the engine in the green Z , more or less to stock specs. The white 240 was rebuilt before I bought it, and I'm building a hot 2800 for the gold Z (see above pics). The gold Z has been stored since 1979( see 1979 inspection sticker on windshield ). As far as cleaning up the undercarriage, we sand blast everything, then paint with urethane. None of the 3 Z's has over 79,000 original miles. Some guy's have all the luck! Ain't it a great little car. Guy

Are you sure it's not white smoke? That could indicate a leak in the head gasket. It could be steam not smoke. This sometimes doesn't show up in a compression check. It's usually the #6 cylinder, where the the water jacket is close to the cylinder. Good Luck Guy

I took these pics of my pops L28 he is building for the resto. I will let him chime in and explain what will be done. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2275211983/" title="Pops L28 motor after paint by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2109/2275211983_1cff213f84_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="Pops L28 motor after paint" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2276006686/" title="Pops L28 motor after paint by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2266/2276006686_f64e6de68e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="Pops L28 motor after paint" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2275213585/" title="Pops L28 motor after paint by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2270/2275213585_b02f054c80_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="Pops L28 motor after paint" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2275214201/" title="Pops L28 motor after paint by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2375/2275214201_238fcd0ec1_b.jpg" width="683" height="1024" alt="Pops L28 motor after paint" /></a>

Has anyone installed Total Seal Gapless Rings in their L series Z and if so, what's your opinion on this ring? Also, did you have any problems with valve guide and valve seal induction or PCV induction as a result of the better sealing? How do you like them?

That would be great Will......and I look forward to your scan Ron. Thanks to all for the ideas. Guy

Great idea Geezer.....then every time someone needs a bolt or nut they could order from the list from maybe one supplier who could make some bucks and help out the club members at the same time.

Thanks Danny.......That's what I was looking for. I ordered the CD a couple months ago and still haven't received it yet. It's amazing what you can get at the local Nissan dealer. I got new fenders, hood and rubber trim at prices better than offered used. Thanks again for your help.

Does anyone know if you can still get early Z nuts and bolts for engine and body. I'm looking for front cover bolts as well as alternator, thermostat housing etc. etc. Thanks Guy

Use SEM. That is the majority of what they do. Making plastic specific dyes and paints. Krylon just does spray paint. I would also be weary of anything called fusion. Seems too modern/trendy. Especially with silver flakes!!!! SEM works great. Just use nice light thin coats. That is the key to a quality finish. It is better to do 4 very thin light coats than 1 or 2 thick ones. Let each coat dry for 15 minutes or so before the next. This is reffered to as letting them tack up first I use the pints/quarts and spray through a auto paint HVLP gun. Never tried the spray can. Amazing results!!!!! Brandon not Guy (the son)

Nice content in here Brandon

Use SEM paint. I would reccomend cleaning real well then 3M scotch pad and even priming with plastic adhesion promoter. The promoter will help the finish stick and be much more durable. I get these items from the local auto paint supply. BTW, get satin!!!

I've got both and prefer ducted. That's what's on the front of my white 70. Guy

Zedd doesn't have it. Try Jeff at Z Car Source of Arizona or Roger at The Z Barn. I got mine from Z Barn for $85.00 plus $35.00 shipping. He cut the whole piece out for me. That's the cheap part. Having someone cut out the spot welds and welding the new piece in is " gonna cost you". Guy

I agree with many here. Maaco is pretty much garbage. If you take them a stripped and masked car with all prep work done, they may do a decent job. A good paint job is going to cost at least $4k+ IMO. Frame shops and resto shops will do the best work. I would argue that a really high quality job if there is a fair amount of body and rust work needed will run closer to $10k. With paint work, you really do get what you pay for. I painted a GTI myself with PPG and it was $1k for materials. The key to any paintjob is pre and post work.