Diseazd

Site....Motorsports has lash pads for $7.50 each or $85.00 for 12....FYI

Good question sweatybetty.......anyone know the answer? Site....Why not call and see if you can send back the 190's and trade for 170's. Isky sends .175's if I recall.

Zama.......I keep one each of a .140, .150, .160, .170, .180, .190 and a .200 lash pads....Just for testing. No need to just install outer spring, since you are just doing one at a time. With those combos, you can center the wipe patterns on almost any cam. I magic marker about 1/4 inch on each side of the face of each rocker arm. Start with number one installing the rocker......then adjust to cold lash, put a dab of oil on the lobe and rotate the cam. Check the pattern.....if centered you are good....if too far back repeat with a thicker lash pad until centered....too far forward, use a thinner pad. Remove that rocker and go to number two. Only one rocker installed at once...... it's not rocket science. Take your time....don't forget to set lash and don't forget to oil the lobe. Write down the numbers for each rocker (1-12) then either buy each lash pad in the right size or have the machine shop or yourself cut them to fit. All 12 of mine were centered with .160's.

Awesome....good job!

A machine shop will cut those down for a song.....those suckers are really hard PITA to file. You'll see what I mean.

I'd bet on that being the problem. I had the same problem once....when I removed the plunger on the Master Vac, the reaction disc fell off. It two feet on the brake pedal (felt hard as heck) to stop the car....frightening!!!! Unbolt the brake Master cylinder ( you don't have to disconnect brake lines) and pull it back away from the Master Vac. Pull the plunger out....if there isn't a rubber disc on the end, you've got a problem. You'll have to vacuum out the disc (about the size of a half dollar and 1/2 inch thick. Super glue it back to the end of the plunger and push back in the Master Vac. Bolt up the master cylinder and you'll be frickin amazed at what a difference that little disc makes. Good Luck!

Will do Site.....BTW, I've got a new name for you instead of siteunseen.....AlabamaZama! Thought of that the other night when I was sucking down a few brews! Whatcha think? BTW.....All 12 lash pads are .160's.....could easily take .170's as you can see on the wipe patterns in the pic. Maybe AlaZama!

Sounds exactly what you get when the reaction disc falls of of the Mastervac plunger. Did you remove the brake Master cylinder? If so did you pull the plunger out of the Mastervac? If so, the little round rubber disc that fits on the back of the plunger probably fell off. If you didn't do these steps, I'm at a loss for what it might be.

Geometried the head with my Stage III Isky cam.....wipe patterns are checked. Will take it to Eiji Monday....he'll cc the chambers, assemble the head, then time the cam. I'll bring her home and finish it up in the next week or so.

You're right LeonV, the word I should have used is inertia, not torque........that's what I feel like I need for stoplight to stoplight and launching the quarter mile.

I understand where you're coming from Mike.....but I'm looking for inertia.......me and Eiji have an ongoing friendly competition going on in straight line racing.

This one is exactly 20 lb. .............

BTW.....I'm still not sure which way to go on a flywheel. I'm going 240 mm, but not sure if I want to go light or not. I have a stock 240 mm flywheel that was lightened by the Z Doc......Eiji uses a 12 lb. flywheel. I'm leaning towards the heavier wheel as I spend most of my driving where torque is needed. I know the 12 lb. wheel will spin faster, but a heavier flywheel will be easier to drive at stoplight to stoplight and in a quarter mile sprint! Any thoughts?

Not sure riceburner. I'm spending the day with Eiji Monday to finish building the motor. I'll ask him. If you want me to check on anything else. Cheers....Guy

You are right Zedy, but there is some adjustment that can be made to fix that without modifying the stock valence. If you crawl under and take a look, there are some bolts that can be loosened to adjust the valence forward to get a 225 to clear when you are backing up.

If you run coilovers and drop your Z anywhere below stock height, you'll need camber plates and to tuck 'em in 3 degrees to keep 225 50 16's from rubbing. In my experience.

Yes I have and yes it is......pretty much.

Eiji says he's hit 10,000 rpm. Impressive, but I wouldn't want it to live there long.

No spacers....not sure about offset.....wheels were on the car when I bought it.

These are 15 inch wheels, but I have Wilwoods on 16 inch wheels too.

Not a Ferrari folks......it's a Datsun Spirit L28 Stroker with all the goodies! Not mine, but I'm getting excited. IMG_0854.mov

You know it Mitch.....not sure if they will be Mikunis, but there will be 3 side draft something's hanging off to one side! I know if I didn't, you'd never let me hear the end of it.....you and my son Brandon win.

P79....shaved .080 inches....Stage III Isky cam. Guy

Yes they are still out there.... a friend of mine just sourced a passenger side quarter for $1200.00. Had to weld up the vent for his Series 1.

Yeah.....Totally new territory for me....So glad my buddy Eiji is close by. I'll take the head up next week and work with him to put her together. He says 89mm bore...83mm stroke .3mm above deck....90.5mm x 1.29mm gasket....44cc head volume and 5.2cc piston volume. He said a 10.7:1 CR. Like I said....new territory for me! Anxious to see what she'll do.