Diseazd

Z therapy carbs and headers .....another $1,000.00....still a heck of a lot cheaper than I would have guessed.....sorry Ryan....guess you were right.

Don't know where you are buying your parts, but I'm building a 3.1 stroker as we speak. With light weight forged pistons and rods, Datsun Spirit's bill for the bottom end alone assembled is $5,150.00, not counting the $1200.00 crank I supplied. The head was $5,500.00 from the Z Doc and that doesn't count carbs or headers.....even the budget Stroker offered here probably was a very expensive investment. Just interested if you recall what you've got in your 3.1 dawg7?

Zedy.....Like I said before....several times.....IMO your car was perfect with the Panasports to start with....you got rid of the pinstripe (good move).....now, paint the rear spoiler the same color as the car, don't put the lower stripe on it, and just keep your tires clean and dressed.....PERFECT!! No charge for the advice. Kinda like this.

Hoarding parts........not a problem......hoarding Z's.....you need expensive therapy.

I'm going to have Eiji build the bottom end. A stroker motor is something totally new for me. He knows which rods and piston heights to use with my Z Doc head. Also, with a stroker motor, there are mods that must be performed on the block. I want to put the rest together.....I just enjoy the build and want to feel like it's my engine. I'm thankful to have Eiji as a friend that will work with me and give me advice on building this motor......he's amazing!

Yes Cliff....SU's will do fine....I only use SU's on all my L28's with Stage III Isky cams. I'm going to break in the stroker with SU's, see how they do, and if they work, I'll run em....if not, I may want to buy your carbs.

Spent the morning with my good friend Eiji Hosomi (Datsun Spirit) today. I'm going to get his help building my new stroker motor , since I'm plowing new territory and want to make sure everything is right.....and no one knows right better than Eiji when it comes to L motors! Here are the specs he gave me: 89mm bore, 83mm stroke (diesel crank), 90.5 mm x 1.29 mm gasket, .4mm above deck, 44cc head volume (I'm using my shaved P79 head) and 4cc piston volume....this should give approximately 10.6 to 1 compression ratio. He's using light forged pistons and rods and my head will have my Isky .490 lift Stage III camshaft. He wanted to go .560 lift, but if this doesn't float the boat, we can always throw on one of his famous N42 modified chamber wonder heads.....I'll think this will be enough juice for me though. Here's some pics I took at Eiji's shop. Guy

I love that you are so blatantly honest Cliff.....the rest of us screw up all the time, we just don't admit it!!! You've got no pride.....I'd love to have a beer with you sometime....Hell maybe 5 or 6! Guy.

$17,851.01.......well bought!

Why don't you go for it Steve.....you can't watch from the sidelines forever!

My guess is that the motor is worth 8 to 10 thousand.....get rid of that ridiculous hood and it'll look civilized too!

I put new wheel cylinders and shoes on the orange 72......she blew a driver side cylinder a couple weeks ago.....cheap Datsun parts....only lasted 45 years!

That's an F54 block not a P79 head All blocks I've dealt with are threaded.....

Cliff.....The large water jacket is a common problem area, but any of the smaller jackets can cause problems too

No Cliff, not that.......If you pull the head and look right behind number 6 cylinder you see the big water jacket (1 1/2 inches or so square)........sometimes I've seen a tiny trench eaten by electrolysis that seeps into number 6. That's why you want to use distilled water and anti freeze to prevent iron, lime and calcium from creating electrolysis, and eating up your aluminum heads.

Absolutely Mark.......good advise.....Not only that, I'll bet if you start with number 6, chances are it's the problem. The large water jacket outlet there seems to tunnel over to the cylinder in a number of cases. Regardless, I'd like to hear back from toneatron83-280z to see if he's tried any of our suggestions. Hard to give further advise if we don't hear back

White smoke usually indicates steam (water). Sounds like it could be a blown head gasket. Fire it up, remove the radiator cap and look for bubbles. You can also check for milky oil or oily water. The aluminum heads are notorious for corrosion caused by electrolysis......always use distilled water in your radiator to keep contaminants (metals) that can lead to destructive electrolysis in your aluminum head out of your cooling system.

I have built several L24 engines using the Nissan or ITM 73 notched Pistons. One thing I do notice about those Pistons is that that come out of the bores about .025 to .030 inches above the deck. The original L24 Pistons don't do this. I've tried on numerous occasions to find out why Nissan designed the 73 pistons with a different deck height ....to no avail......anyone know why? The head on the 73's are about as worthless as they come and maybe it was designed that way to at least increase C/R some. On the other hand, maybe they were fly cut to decrease compression ratios to meet stricter standards.....or maybe because they come out .025 inches, they are closer to the valves and therefore are flycut. Whatever, I would be very surprised with the stock camshaft, if you would have any clearance problems using the flat tops that you have.....however, used heads are a dime a dozen so why not get an E31 or early E88 and use them with your flat tops.....makes sense to me....you'll have a much better engine!

.......the Rock Auto Pistons are ITM......make sure you get flat tops not dish.

ITM makes flat top Pistons for the P79/F54 block. eBay always has these pistons for sale, also a number of vendors do as well. I would make sure the pistons are ITM's, as many of us have successfully used ITM Pistons in the F54/ P79 combo's. However, I don't like their ring sets, so I either use OEM Nissan or Total Seal rings with the ITM's. IMO

Well you better take care of it quickly or I'll have to call the Z Police! Just a shame that Nissan had to hang those big chunks of steel out there to meet some safety code.......sure futzed up a beautiful design eh? People should buy cars to drive.....not to crash!!!

Car looks great Jeff, but you need to lose those bumpers

No Zedy.....I'm pretty much a purist.....I like em clean with no pin stripes, side molding or decals.....just me. I really like your readiness to try new stuff though....to each his own. My silver Z has the side molding....I'd rather it not, but since it's all original paint, I'm not about to change that. Like I said many times..... I love your cars......and the stripes were on a lot of Z's in the early 70's.....part of the history, just like spoilers, wheels and lowering springs....they're all cool. Site....so is yours!

"If you like your gun......you can keep your gun"!

205/60/15 Zedy.....that's what I run. On the 16's, I run 205/55/16's