Diseazd

Thanks Steve........I've got the Stage III cam in my L28's........I was trying to move this down a little in the power band. The Stage II is .480 lift while the Stage III is .490 lift and 10 degrees more duration than the II. With a 9.2 to 1 C/R I figured the shorter duration would work better........maybe, maybe not. We'll see how this combo works......I'm really excited about this motor. Guy

Nissan did a lousy job on their reproduction....try to find a used one and spray it with black interior color dye. I just went through the same situation.

Ed.....Ground Control coilovers, camber plates........Wilwood discs all around. The car is as low as we can get it. Many of the pictures were taken before the suspension was installed. I can assure you it's probably lower than your 260 now. Thanks to everyone for your kind remarks. Guy

Mitchell.......I didn't mean to pass over your post.....I just love the simplicity of my SU's. Besides that.....come to Richmond and drive mine......you might be surprised at the power and torque my 3 L28's make and the two L24's to boot. Each to his own....I love my motors ......don't be too sure you're making more power than mine! Guy

It can easily be done with a Dremel and grinding attachment. Do it before you get the block honed to prevent contamination and put several layers of tape on the top of the block in case the Dremel rides off across the top of the block.

OZ......You know I'm building this motor because of our conversation last year! The P79 head shaved and shimmed gives a ratio of 9.2 to 1 while the E31 gives you 9.7 to 1. I have both heads available, but decided on the P79 for the better burn and flow. Do you agree? This engine ought to be a sweet driver.......we'll see. Guy

Isky Stage II........480 lift......Stainless steel swirl valves.......balancing the bottom end.

Believe it or not you can still get them new from Nissan. I bought two brand new last week for $12.00 a piece. Guy

I like the BF Goodrich idea......I'm not really prejudiced! KDW bold pattern!

I'm building a new engine. I'll use the L28 N42 block bored .040 over with an L24 crank and rods, L28 P79 flat-top pistons and a high quench P79 head shaved and shimmed .080 inches (should be 9.2 to 1 C/R). What this will be is a very over-bored L24 because I really like the higher revving L24's and bigger is always better.....right? Anyone build this motor before or heard of anyone else building it? I'll update as I build on.

Good choice on the 205 55 16s. I think that's the perfect choice for the street Z!

AJM.......I'll check with Chuck and let you know. Safari Gold is really growing on me....can't wait to put the new Panasports and front BRE spoiler on. You're right Brandon.....I can feel it now!

Thanks Blue......that's just what I was looking for! Anyone know where to get a set- up like the one used to hook up to the brake booster port.........like the step down in Blue's post? The booster port is too big of a diameter for the hose on my vacuum gauge. Guy

Can anyone confirm what the proper vacuum reading should be on a carbureted L28 at idle? Thanks Guy

Why don't you just call ZCARSOURCE or ZBARN and get the right pedal.......then just bolt it in and hook it up to your new master cylinder.

Update........I found them at Ace Hardware........4-40 x 3/4.........E, you were close. Thanks for everyone's input. By the way.....they were 79 cents for 5 stainless machine screws. Guy

Thanks everyone.......I'll report back when I find some! Guy

Thanks E........I'll check that out. Guy

I'm replacing the lens covers on the front large blinker lights of my 71 Z. Several of the screws have been broken trying to get them out. Anyone know where I might pick up a dozen or so of these screws? Thanks for your help. Guy

Come clean Brian. You really don't own a Z.......do you?

And remember.....never add fresh water to a overheated engine, the drastic change in cooling will really warp an engine, and when you add water to a warm engine, start it before adding water or coolant. I warped the valves on a 52 Jeep adding cold water to a hot engine and it was running when I added it!

Keith.....How many pair are needed to get the price down to $100.00 a pair? I'll take one pair at $150.00 if that helps get the ball rolling. Anyone else? If the next batch is cheaper, I'll take more. Guy

I can't wait till he buffs it out!!

Rich......You have to be patient with Chuck, but he's worth the wait. I can"t wait either........wish you were on the East Coast. Your work is awesome.......I believe we think a lot alike! We'll post 'em as soon as we can. Guy

Chuck finally started painting today! These were taken with a cell phone......will get Brandon to update with a real camera soon!