Diseazd

Hogie.......You want to make sure that what you put back is correct.In your pictures at your first post, look at the next to last pic of the pressure plate.A 240Z clutch when sitting like that pic is 2 inches from the floor to the tip of the clutch fingers.If you measure your clutch and that measurement is 2 inches,you have a 240Z clutch.Now you need to make sure you have a 240Z collar........$18.00 from MSA. I believe all TO bearings will work, but check. From your pics, I'd say you need one. Next,buy yourself a new slave cylinder.......Now you know you're good to go! If the measurement is not 2 inches, you need to figure out what clutch you've got and match the collar to it. Good luck.......Guy

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30077 Check it out.

If it's a 240z clutch, it needs a 240z collar. The tranny is the same dimension whether 5 speed or 4 speed. It looks like a 240 z clutch.....if it is, use a MSA 21-2121 70-74 collar. Carl posted some measurements for all of the clutch collars on one of my threads about the 240mm clutch. To my knowledge there is no such thing as a type B 5 speed collar. If the collar is correct I agree with Marty as above.

Loosen 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.......you"ll figure it out......go ahead....get your hands dirty. That"s how you learn. You" ll be able to hear the engine smooth out as you twist the distributor. That would be the easiest thing to check first.

Pin height is the same on L24 and L28 pistons.....so you should be able to run the L24 crank and rods with new .040 over L28 flat-tops to give what equates to a big displacement L24......anyone ever built this motor?

It would be an overbored L24......you're right about giving up cubes with the L24 crank, but you would pick up displacement over the 24 block........ but seat of the pants, the L24 just feels like more fun to drive to me. Also, the E31 on the big bore block should give you much better compression .....right Jon?

You're absolutely right........no I don't plan to do that, but you always need a couple of spare engines to futz with! I love both the L24 and the L28's for different reasons.....that's why I have 2 of each. I really want to build a motor using the L28 block, L24 crank and rods and the L28 pistons and E31 head.....big displacement with high revs.....I've always been biased toward the L24's.......maybe it's just me, but I think they're more fun to drive!

Also, when you pull your original L24, it should be kept on an engine stand ready to be returned to it's proper place. Both of my L28's have the original motors ready to go back in.

Yoshi......Just loosen the 10 mm nut on the base of the distributor.....start the car then twist the distributor counter clockwise a small amount.....see if that helps.Timing can be set by listening to the engine to find it" s smoothest idle.Make sure the engine is fully warmed up when doing this.Good Luck.

I've heard that run-on can be caused by too much advance......try retarding your timing. See if that helps.

Yoshi.......An L28 with flat-tops? That's a first......very rare! Bruce Palmer where are you? I agree with Dobber.

FINAL blocking being done!!! They rockguarded the inner fenders before spraying them in the 920 safari gold. She will be ready in time for Savannah <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396903742/" title="IMG_4904 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5053/5396903742_edd7379537_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4904" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396904702/" title="IMG_4906 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/5396904702_2fcdc281b8_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4906" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396905920/" title="IMG_4902 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/5396905920_dafb1bf7d3_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4902" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396308891/" title="IMG_4898 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5396308891_6288ef65a0_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4898" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396309755/" title="IMG_4896 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5396309755_d3859c51d3_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4896" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396310721/" title="IMG_4897 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/5396310721_a6f77329a1_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4897" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396917780/" title="IMG_4908 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5396917780_1b1e3759e7_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4908" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396918228/" title="IMG_4912 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5396918228_a021f06455_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4912" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/5396321511/" title="IMG_4909 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/5396321511_ed9b184d7d_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="IMG_4909" /></a>

I would change out the suspension bushings with newer ones and possibly new struts and put a set of new tires all around. Why?..........WIth only 10,000 miles,it should be fine.No one has asked how it drives. How does it drive? Does it shimmy or vibrate or drive and track good? That should go a long way to telling if it was a good repair. My guess is it must have been a pretty good lick if it was a salvaged title. If repaired properly, it could be worth $10,000 to $12,000.The car looks absolutely beautiful in the pictures.

Already booked...........look forward to seeing everyone.

I have a brand new set of .080 inch shims that you can have.........It's missing the number 1 shim. If you want them, PM me......they're yours. Happy New Year.........Guy , "

I bought mine from Jim Frederick in Florida. PM Carl Beck if you can't find his info on this site. His e mail is Jim240z@aol.com.

http://www.deltacam.com/ You send them your used rockers and for $6.00 each (last year's price)they'll return them promptly like new. I sent them 48 and they did them for $4.00 each. Good guys to work with.

Chris.....Yes, duration can be confusing because manufacturers may select any lift to advertise duration. It would be interesting to see what Nissan used to come up with 248 degrees duration. If .020 lift is 270 and .050 is 222, it must be somewhere in between. Guy

http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html The Isky Stage I is a stock 240Z camshaft reground to a higher lift (.475 vs .413), but with the same duration as stock. Click on the above link, on the left, click on Datsun,then on L24 page 176. For the Stage I regrind they list duration at .050 lift at 222 degrees and indicate that that is the same duration as stock. .

Isky didn't know what valve lift the factory uses........Isky uses .050 valve lift. Advertised duration at Isky is at .020 valve lift. They show an advertised duration of 270 degrees (at .020 inch valve lift) and 222 degrees (at .050 inch) for the stock 240z camshaft.

I know the feeling Zedyone......The feeling that you wish you could slow things down enough to stop the inevitable. Last weekend I was making the last cut of my lawn on my "Double Mulching John Deere" riding lawn mower. Cutting faster and faster as I leaned into the apexes. Unfortunately I noticed my wallet (which had slid out of my pocket on the last lap) just in front of the beast.........tried to hit the brake on the hydro-static drive tranny....hit the gas instead......it was like a slow motion dream. The mulching feature worked to perfection......bits of health cards,drivers licenses,twenty dollar bills, boat registrations etc. etc. Have you every tried to first, find bits of bills in a lawn, and then try to tape them back together? Sorry about your chip!:stupid:

Chris.....Isky lists it's Stage I cams at 270 degrees advertised and 222 degrees at .050 inches (same as stock).See link below. http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html

I believe that the stock 240Z had an advertised duration of 270 degrees and a lift of .410 inches.

If you're not using new rockers, I wouldn't have him regrind your cam. Cams in a stock Z engine rarely have any noticeable wear, and if you do regrind, you probably should install remanufactured rockers to seat in with the new cam.If you don't regrind, make sure he keeps the old rockers numbered, so each goes back on it's existing cam lobe. Re price.........he isn't going to make any money at $1500.00. It's an excellent price! (don't forget a new chain tensioner)