Travel'n Man

I would start with a strong pressure washer with a POR 15 Marine Clean on a 1:1 ratio ran with hot water - the follow the above steps with the bug sprayer and acid. For the acid to do it's job be sure to keep the parts wet for approx 15 mins. Be sure to protect your skin and eyes. The Marine Clean does not smell strong but it is industrial and will kick azz............plan on getting very wet.

It's one of those "while I am at it" projects. What else would you do if the rear suspension, exhaust, diff, struts were out of your azz end? Yep, pull the tank, evap tank, return lines............"while I am at it"! Vapor hoses are a PITA - two parts are left from Nissan - 1 is formed - the other is not. All 5 lines different sizes for venting.......WTH!! Break out the POR15 again.........might as well do the EVAP tank and the gas tank "while I am at it"..................let's see what else I can find back there. I've already checked all the rubber plugs to make sure I'm keeping exhast fumes out.....just ordered a new filler hose...."while I am at it". Damn - I'm glad I've got an understanding wife!!

Bronco's are getting spanked!

Bronco's are going to have to wake up!

Layed on my back in the garage with hot water from the hose - washed / degreased / rinsed the entire underside of my car. Getting ready to re-freshen the undercoating with some 3M and get ready to put the rear suspension, diff, brake system back in..........a very wet job to say the least!

You may want to post a pic so we can tell what you are looking at.

My first Z back in the late 70's was white with Red Interior - damn, I miss that car! The red interior is eye catching and really pops with the silver. Great colors you got going on Casey_z!

What a project - not fully completed yet but the hardest part is finished........yep, spindle pin replacement along with all bushings POR 15'd Semi-gloss black and silver - Custom G2 paint for 110 - 15/16th's for Toyo brake upgrade

POR'd and finished Just got to bolt up and torque down

The puller I used was the one from Hybrid Z that had sole hundreds................it's just no match to the frozen metal to metal from 1970 something...............naturally I used some anti-sieze lub when I slide them back into place.

I couldn't do it - too many years and memories for me.............but - if I did this would be in the top 10 choices.

OK - Just finished the spindle pins - bushing replacement (this thread helped tremendously). I'm glad it is over. If I had to do it again I would NOT buy a spindle pin puller. Stripped it out in about 30 seconds and wasted $60.00. Buy your spindle pins and your new bushings. Get a hacksaw (if they will not come out by hammering the crap out them) and cut them out. One you get the Lower Control Arm (LCA) separated you will need to press them out or beat the hell out of them with a drift to get them all the way removed. Once you have the spindle pins totally removed next you have to get a 1" door hole drill and drill out the rubber of your bushings. Once you get the inner collar drilled out with your door hole saw on your skill saw, go back to your hack saw. Cut your bushing housings into thirds. Once cut you can pop them out with a chisel or screwdriver. Once your LCA and strut housings are all cleaned up you will need to debur or sand inside your housing where the spindle pin goes back in. I used a round file 6" in my electric drill. Cleaned up the spindle pin housing on both the strut housing and the LCA. The pins are directional so be sure to put the end with the color dot facing the front of the car. Put some anti-seize on the pin, line everything up and make sure you have the pin cut out facing the correct direction for the spindle pin lock. Of course easily said after the fact but this has taken weeks to get the dis-assembly - destruction - POR15 - reconstruction and finally satisfaction of getting the job done. Hope this helps somebody out there.

I just got the last one from Amazon - rear HP 3016. Whitehead had front HP's and can weld the riser to the shock for the rear elevation if needed. They quoted me $300 which was totally insane...............but they had the 3015 fronts.

Mike - Couldn't have posted this without the upgrade. Hope everybody enjoys looking inside your engine!

I'm in - I have started to category bins so I can try not to collect two of the same items because I forget that I had an extra one already after I have already bought it. I continually search ebay looking for any item that I may possibly need. Now I'm thinking about trying to find a good shell and start another one ..................I need help!

Bought this right out of high school - so this is sometime in 1978. It was my first Z. 1973 White exterior / Red interior. Removable baskets on the wheels - depending on my mood for the day baskets in or baskets out. Naturally she ended up with rust problems so I figured I would take it to a body shop and have fiberglass replacement parts installed. Ended up I wanted it black so I told the body shop to give it a paint job and put on the fiberglass replacement parts (rockers - front fenders). Got a price quote (I was only 18 or 19) paid 1/2 up front and started getting excited about getting her fixed up. After a couple of months he wanted more money and more money.....we all know the story but this one went to the extreme. He put a mechanics lien on the car and locked it up. Summer turned to fall and me and one of my buddies (his dad owned a wrecker company) went and hooked it up and towed it to my grandparents garage. Yep - you guessed it the next week the sheriff's department came and visited me at my grandparents and impounded the car at the police department. Ended up I got the car back unfinished - sold it - and the new owner totaled it the first week that they owned it................... The 70's were a great time to own a Z - without a doubt!

No matter how hard we try - a S30 is never rust free...................

This may help you with your search Differential Ratios

I agree with the above statement - I have a 80-83 5 speed with a 720 pickup front diff (3.90). It is a great pair. One day I'll do the swap for a R200 but only when I have to.

Gord - Everytime I see your Z it's more impressive - great job and labor of love!

No matter what anybody says - once you get the 5 speed - complete a rebuild before putting that bad boy in...............make it easy on yourself...........you'll be glad you did!

Remember to upgrade your rubber brake lines to a high quality Stainless Steel to assist with better braking effort.

Great pads are the key to great brakes - after a rebuild and flush. Porterfields are my personal pick. Remember to flush once every 2 years regardless of mileage driven.

Welcome to the site Chris - Be sure to use the search feature as most all topics have been discussed in detail. There is a TON of knowledgeable owners that have battled every battle. Do a little searching - and reach our to the group for help. The throttle linkage has been discussed in detail along with a Lokar cable correction if that is the path you want to take.........depending on your problems.......it fixed mine. Lokar Throttle Kit: LOK-TC-1000U