Travel'n Man

I talked my wife into getting triple Mikuni's for my Z - all about about the spin - any politicians here?

Glen - Welcome to the site - I'm just east of you in Boone NC. She looks like a great find. What's your plans with her?

Stephen - Show us that radiator when you get a chance - I've been thinking about replacing mine but just have not gotten around to it yet - what did you do with your fan? Did you move to electric? Do you use a shroud and will it fit on the 3 core?

12.7 - 13.0 is WOT at 6000rpms.........

I'm a little confused - if you are not as rich as me (and my setting is gauged on the ideal range for WOT with a AFR gauge, and I'm slightly on the fat side) then you are too lean and could cause piston and engine damage. But if you don't know what your AFR is at any setting (including WOT) then you are really lost on your entire tuning.............don't take it personally......IMO I had discussed this with with Dave Rebello on increasing my venturi's to 36mm and you are running a larger Pilot Jet with a L24 than Dave recommended me to run with a modified L28 - I would really believe that you should log all your settings with the AFR from WOT so you can get a true idea of where your fuel / air is at inside your combustion chamber............I personally would restart with 57's and maybe go up to 60's From my research: Pilot Jets: 20% throttle = idle = low end power Main Jets: Adds (or removes) fuel from the entire RPM range = higher number equals richer mix = top end power Air Jets: Smaller the Air Jet the higher the RPM and the more fuel comes in = higher number equals the leaner mix Power on Air Jets: Power on lower RPM band = 210/190 air jet Power on Air Jets: Power on higher RPM band = 140/150 air jet Air Fuel Ratio Target based on Todd Walrich at Wolf Creek Racing: 13.2 peak High AFR under load 12.7-13.0 AFR ideal under load

My AFR gauge (digital) moves around quite a bit as well - take your car up to 6000RPM's and get the average (it's not going to sit on one spot) and let us know. After talking to Wolf Creek Racing and Rebello Racing you can not predetermine the amount of turns on your pilot screw. They both said you really should not have to go beyond 3 turns (I know there is a lot of BS about one turn only but neither Dave or Todd agreed to that). My engine really like 2.25 turns so that is were I am currently. The only way to really read plugs is to get to wide open throttle (WOT) and immediately pull off the road and quickly take out your plugs. If you are pulling into your garage and casually pulling them they are already sutting up and changing colors. The AFR gauge is your best bet for determining the amount (or lack of) fuel into your combustion chamber. My current jetting: Main Air - 190 Main Fuel - 150 Pilot Jet - 62.5 Pilot Screw - 2.25 turns Warm idle AFR @ 1000RPM - 13.1 4th Gear @ 2000 RPM - 12.9 WOT - 2nd gear @ 6000RPM - 12.5 From my understanding you should not be leaner at WOT than 13.2 Ideal at WOT AFR setting should be 12.7-13.2 I have worked on jetting over the past two weeks and bought a lot of jets (of all kinds) - it's kinda crazy because I have came right back to where Todd originally had my set up. Here in a few weeks I will work on different pilot jets and trying to find some machined 36mm venturi's so I can see what my max horsepower is - my torque is excellent with the 32mm venturi's in but really want to see how much HP my engine will put out. I am keeping a spreadsheet with all the different setting and the AFR based on each setting - that way I know all the combinations I have tried. If the AFR is too lean it is terrible for the engine and can risk all kinds of crazy heat and meltage of pistons and so forth. If you are too rich than the plugs will get all fueled up and have poor performance. Naturally each engine will perform differently based on the engine build.

What does your AFR gauge read at WOT (say 2nd gear at 6000RPM)?

You can always send the header off to have it recoated - JET Hot does a great job and pretty fast also - another thing you'll kick yourself in but tail for not doing while you have it all out. http://www.jet-hot.com/

Great looking project - you will be surprised with the upgrade engine and triples - it will have much more torque and instant response once you get your triples dialed in. I have been buying jets from Wolf Creek over the past couple weeks (currently I have 3 different pilots / 4 airs / 5 fuels) surprising enough after 6 or 7 different jet settings I have came full circle to my original one for the best WOT AFR reading. I am still looking for a 6pack of venturi's that I can have for more air inlet - I would like to have two sets (one for street purpose driving) and (one for dyno pulls to see the max horsepower that my engine is capable of). My thought process is much like yours - I can never use all the horsepower that my engine can produce but I can enjoy the low end torque at any time on the street. Dave Rebello says I am losing 40 horsepower by not using the 36mm venturi's but I do not track my car. Just a weekend mountain road carver. Keep the pics flowing - your going to love the first time you spark it up - don't forget to set your timing up based on your crusing rpm's........I worked off of 3000 RPM's for my baseline. From my understanding you will be looking for: 12.7-13.0 :1 air fuel ratio at WOT at load- 13.2:1 being the peak high under load Since I have no interstates near me (the closest one is 1 hour away) I have been working off 2nd gear @ 6000RPM's. Where did you install your AFR gauge?

I agree totally - Dave Rebello and I had a conversation last week and stated the exact same thing - I am currently looking for some 36mm venturi's to put on my 40 Mikuni's. No need to not tap on horsepower if it is there. If anybody has any 36's for Mikuni's send me a PM -

Great dedication to your Dad! I'm sure he would like what you go goin' on with the engine!

Or this could be corrected by sending your 32's to Dave at Rebello Racing and having them re-bored to 36's...............just another angle.

Steve - Something to ponder on / thought you may want to know for an FYI - I know you are modified and this driving season I am working on jetting - once I get my arms around it I will start a new thread so all of us can post out settings and dyno results - it may help somebody later with Mikuni set up and jetting. Per the Mikuni jet table a stock L24 should be jetted at: 40 PHH x 3 (if you have 44's the settings change per the chart) Large Venturi - 32 Main Jet - 140 Main Air Jet - 180 Pilot Jet - 57.5 Pump Nozzle - 0.40

Agreed! Triples are a must - with beer and carbs!! Triple Karmeliet and Mikuni's are my pick!

I'm wearing my ZCCNV orange t-shirt today that I picked up from ZDayZ (referring back to post #1)

Bruce - You may want to start by building a garage on this site - get some photo's so we can see what your project is. You also may want to put some info on your signature to make it easier for the group to respond to your needs.................just trying to help with your feedback that you are requesting.

Guy - While you are doin' it you need to get 6 shots of the engine bays........

Stephen - Your build is very similar to mine and mine is perfect for me - If I wanted a high horsepower motor I would have built a stroker with a wild cam - much like you I really enjoy my powerband (I typically don't drive in the 6500 - 7500 rpm range). My cam powerband is 2500-5500 rpm's. I believe you will really enjoy the money spent once you get finalized and one the road. What oil are going to use in this engine? Are you going to use a different formula for break in - I believe I changed mine about 4 times in the first 1000 miles...........I have been using a custom blend that Dave Rebello recommended and has been working fine for me since my install.

I see similarities with several of them - with that many colors I would want a different engine style for each on as well. Let's see - one original L24 with SU's - one L28 with Triple Mikuni's - one with a V8 - one with a stroker - one with a SR20DET..............oh well.........a beautiful line up with any of the above choices. Well done!!

Pistons look like flat tops.........hard to tell from the pics?

Looks great - what block did you use and did you change out the cam? I believe anybody doing this should not get caught up in those big horsepower numbers but more so on the torque numbers - be gentle with your break in and change out the oil frequently..............you're goin' to love this!

Welcome - great find!

Very "cool" cold air intake box!

I am having that challenge as we speak - I had a blow out last month and I think I bought the last Yokohama 225x50x15 on the planet - next challenge I have with my current tires and I will have to either change tire size (which is very limited) or change wheel size - If I change wheel size I will have to go to 16" to find any variety at all on tire sizes...........for what it's worth.

Dave Rebello assist with my engine rebuild - I had him do all the head work and I did the block work. He is a great guy that is extremely knowledgeable about our engines and how to get the kind of horsepower that each individual driver is after. I am running a Protronix in my Z and it is dead on - never missing a beat and very reasonable priced. What ever you do Dave will steer you in the right direction - be sure to discuss a cam with him and the power band that you are going to be driving in. If Dave does your entire engine and carb package he will be able to dyno the entire engine and get it totally broken in on the dyno. Horsepower in the high 100's to low 200's is a lot of power for our cars vs the weight, with a little more aggressive cam and some triples your torque numbers will climb fast as well as your tach and speedo. Don't let the dyno numbers fool you at all.