Travel'n Man

Freddy - Have you researched any for a Weber manual - there is a formula you use to get the correct jets and chokes for Webers - if you research I'm sure you can get you Webers dialed in. There is a lot of info on this site - try the search feature first - if all else fails MSA sells info as well as this: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-9696

Jon - Welcome to the site - get ready to have some fun in your garage! You may want to add to your signature the year of your Z. If there was one mod I was going to do with your 370 it would be a Fast Intentions Exhaust System. My son just got his installed last month and what a huge difference in the exhaust. There are a few YouTube clips out there. The systems are a little pricey but they sound great. Tony hand builds all of them and the workmanship is excellent - very easy bolt on - just follow his instructions step by step. If you are looking for a serious engine get in touch with Dave Rebello - he is the master in race performance for our "L" engines. Dave can do block work - head work - cam work - any and all that you are looking for - he is extremely knowledgeable on our engines and will give you great guidance as well thoughout your project. I elected to take care of my own block but had Daves team take care of my head and cam - worked out great for me - sounds like you may want to change cranks though. There is one on ebay I think right now for about $900.00. If you are looking for some serious carbs get in touch with Todd at Wolf Creek Racing for triple Mukini's if that is the route you are wanting to go - get ready to have fun and spend a few dollars!! http://www.rebelloracing.com/ http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/

Have somebody hold your RPM's at 3000. If you are running triples you really need to get a wideband to know where you are. Lots of recent posts on this topic.

Great looking Z! White was the color of my first 240 back in '78. Love it!

Thanks for the kind words - just takes a lot of time and lot of money! http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Search Strut Bar - they were originally blue but just did not look right in my engine bay so now the mounts are my body and block color - it works for me. I did the same to the rear one.

I have an Audi A6 also - great car - solid as a rock and great in the snow.

Matt - I'm just over in Boone - I have my X5 serviced at FLOW - they keep me on the road! Go over to FLOW and take a X5 for a test drive - you just may end up taking one home. Helluva vehicle!

I own a 2005 X5 - it is the best car I have ever owned. I have almost 250,000 miles on it and it drives as good as it does when I drove it off the dealerships lot with 000001 mile on it. I ordered it from Greenville SC and had it built the way that I wanted it. I honestly think I can get another 100,000+ miles on it. Labor and parts have been no worse or no better than anything else out there. The workmanship is excellent - leather quality is excellent - and attention to detail is fantastic. My next purchase will be another BMW without a second thought. I am really feeling the X6 but with as many miles as I drive I'm afraid the staggered wheel and tire size may make it expensive to maintain. For a large SUV the X5 is the best interstate/mountain road driver as I could ask for. I can drive for long stretches and feel great when I get out of the ride. The germans really know how to do it right!

There are a few things you will notice right off the bat - no acceleration surge (dumping the linkage is not a bad thing / once you have tried the cable) - immediate torque difference - and that triple carb sound. It'll put a smile on your face every time you drive your car......you gotta love it!! From my understanding on my Mikuni's the correct idle is approx 1000 rpm's - you may not need to go any lower - what are the idle spec's for Webers?

She is a beauty! http://www.griotsgarage.com/text/content/havingfun/about-our-cover-cars/hb328.html

Great post - thanks for the info!

Found one - yep, thats right - I think it is the last one in the nation - Tire Kingdom / Tire Rack / Discount Tire - nobody has this sizing

You can always get the LOKAR throttle cable - it works great and get rid of the throttle surge and all slop or you can do this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30584-Accelerator-linkage-fix-questions&highlight=throttle+linkage

I had a blow out this evening. My car is ok but the tires that I have on my Z are discontinued by Yokohama. Does anybody out there have one or two that they want to sell? Size is 225x50x15. Has to be in new to like new condition only.

Great way to spend an hour or so - it's always interesting with some great rides.

I would first of all work on your spelling - you will get some faster and better responses from this site. Second of all I would get a new shop - if this guy has screwed this up from the beginning it will be a train-wreck once he finishes the rebuild Call Dave Rebello (http://www.rebelloracing.com/)- he can send you all the parts and pieces that you need or just send him your block and head and he and his team will perform a little "Rebello Racing Magic" to it.

Hell - I'm fired up and it's not even my dash - looks great - keep us posted!

Nice ^^^ Great looking install - I'm really fired up for you when you get to start those Triples up!

Don't spend a lot of time on your old slow wiper - here is the best fix that is out there IMO. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?141-Honda-Wiper-Motor-Upgrade-for-the-240Z

Steve - No I don't. It is only approx 1/8" thick and lives on the underside of the heat shield. I just cut out a template of the underside of the heat shield cleaned the underside surface, and stuck it right there. That fast and that easy. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-13575 Aluminized Heat Barrier is made up of woven silica with a flexible aluminized finish; the highly reflective surface of the material is capable of withstanding radiant temperatures in excess of 2000 degrees fahrenheit The adhesive backed composite construction material can easily be applied to any surface or wrapped around a hose or wire to make a clean professional appearance Some Typical uses include: firewall, hoods, hoses, doors and anywhere you want to control radiant heat

Stephen - If you do go with a heat shield I did also add a heat barrier to the underside of mine to ensure temps stayed reduced on the fuel bowls - Heat Barrier: Thermo Tec-13575 - just a thought while you are buying and installing.

This may help some: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30584-Accelerator-linkage-fix-questions&highlight=lokar

The easiest way is just to pull a new power line - run it through the transmission tunnel - connect it a power supply tie to your starter switch - put it all on a relay with ground - tie a fuse into your line and your done. A 15-30 minute job at max.

Sorry to see that! Glad your son is OK.