Travel'n Man

............now the fun starts! Welcome to the club!

O2 Sensor and Air Fuel Gauges are not cheap - did a ton of researching and ended up using one at Summit Racing (since the hidden radio was digital I figured why not for the AFR gauge) it reads the digital number and sweeps from halfway down - either on the lean side or the rich side. The 02 sensor installed in the collector of the header. Run some power and your good to go.

I wanted to update this install with the location that I installed my Air Fuel Gauge. Works great - out of the way and easily accessed for me to monitor if needed. If you're going to tune triples this is a necessity. Close up the glove box door and nobody knows it's there.

Wait until you hear those bad boy's fire up!

Bill- Welcome to the site - get some more pics up when you can - you may want to edit your signature so we know what year you have so when you post questions we can address them correctly. Be sure to use the search feature often - odds are most of your questions have been resolved many times over - if you get stumped there are some super folks on this site that have tons of knowledge. Looking forward to seeing more pics!

I used the same FPR that Steve91tt mentioned. I did not put in an oil pressure switch but did set up an inertia switch (with the power relay) to kill the fuel pump if something bad happens. I mounted mine on the firewall of the passenger side. Since the fuel pump is run off the switch power supply and if you have a wreck the only way to stop the fuel pump is to turn the switch off - or - have the inertia switch do it for you on impact. I really did not like the sound of fuel pumping consistently if I was in a wreck so I figured the $80 or so was well worth it...................hopefully I will never need that little gizmo! Don't forget the fuel filter directly after your tank - I used a Holley 162-551 Fuel Filter Are you going to use the original fuel rail with the original return - if I was going to do that my plumbing would be: tank => fuel filter => fuel pump => FPR => inline fuel filter => original fuel rail => carb1 => carb2 => carb3 => original return line (that goes back to the tank).

Failed to comment that my headers are JET HOT coated to reduce temp as well.

I love it when that happens!

Did you use the search engine to do any research? Did you find Dave's write up? The models are stated there correct?

If it has 4 mounting screws it will not work - I just upgraded to the Honda wiper motor over the winter - gotta have a 3 screw mount.

Since I am in the mountains of Western North Carolina (elevation 3500 ft) my high summer temp is no more than 85-90 degree's. I'm not battling 100+ degrees outside. I've had my car on some 4 hour drives with no stumbling issues. I'll try to catch a pic of my FPR this evening.

Steve - Hope this pic helps a little - I deadheaded my fuel line and have had ZERO problems. I talked with a lot of folks and read a lot to make sure I was not going to get boiling fuel. I have had NO issues at all with my setup and the carbs are a joy every time I fire up my car. I do have a heat shield and I do have a heat barrier on the underside of the heat shield. I used a triple fuel line that works like a charm. I did install a FPR on the passanger engine compartment so if I was working on the carbs I can see the pressure if needed. There is not one thing I would change with my Mikuni set up as of today. I'm glad I did not go with 44's. IMO a lot of folks over carb their cars and then they are chasing continually on how to get the car to run better. I did just install a AFM to my car and really excited about fine tuning with a little plug reading instead of plug reading by itself. By the way - if I take it easy on my right foot I'm getting 23+ MPG - If I take it hard on my right foot I get under 10 MPG. My install is documented below if it can help you any and you may want to visit my garage as well: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42045-Wolf-Creek-Racing-Mikuni-40-s

Will - Here is another option on rust. http://www.por15.com/

I gotta ask - did you bypass the resistor?

What a great starting point you have - use the search box for educating yourself - get the ZTherapy CD on carbs - totally drain the gas tank - dump all the liquids - bleed the brake lines - have the radiator boiled and rodded. Start from scatch - don't try to do everything at once. One weekend read up on brakes and then knock that project out. Another weekend read up on dropping your gas tank and then do that. You'll be amazed on how much you can learn about these cars if you take little bites at it and keep your progress moving. Trust me - the search engine will be your best friend for many years to come. Any of us will be happy to pitch in to assist (most of us have already battled the issues you will be addressing shortly). Go ahead and order some fuel bowl gaskets from ZTherapy (you will need them). Inspect all your fuel lines (you will need to replace some that has dry rotted). New plugs are a must as well as points or upgrade to Pertronix electronic (that way you will not have to set points again - very plug and play). Anyway that should get you started for a couple of weeks - keep us up to date on your family heirloom.

Keep those pic's and videos coming - great thread!

Chris - Welcome to the site!

Call Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing.

Be sure to review the thread below - you can find a single non-return/deadhead fuel line with three fuel inlets and heat shield in Japan with ease of ordering and shipping (contact info included in link with pics). I have had absolutely no issues without having a return line no matter what RPM. I was very concerned with this when I was doing my install but now......not a second thought about it. I have not had to drill any holes in my Mikuni's (per the above message about the Webers) - they have been dead on fantastic since day 1. Be sure to think about a primary fuel filter back at your tank, it's even more important to make sure there is no trash going into your needle valves since you will soon to have 3 of them at one time. My install is well documented in "my garage" if needed for reference. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42045-Wolf-Creek-Racing-Mikuni-40-s

Great looking interior but no DynoMat? That is an excellent sound deadener........

Looks great - I could be interested as well. How long will it be until we know?

You're going to love the new set up! My N42 combo is fantastic - the power band is excellent with my cam and the carbs are a total blast everytime I fire my car up. You will not regret what you are going to do, other than you didn't do it last year! I did check my MPG over the weekend and I'm currently getting 20+ MPG with some spirited driving.

Just an update for anybody keeping up with this install or thinking of installing Mukini's. With all the beautiful weather we have had this March I've had my car out a lot enjoying the early spring in the Western North Carolina mountains. I filled my car up a couple of weeks ago (when I fired it up for the first time this calendar year) and have driven a couple hundred miles - topped off my gas this afternoon and getting right at 21 MPG. I have had a few spirited drives and some easy town crusing but overall 21 MPG is great with triples and a modified L28. I have seen some threads with folks reporting 8MPG. I really think a lot of folks try to go too big for the cars based on their engine size and then spend forever tuning, adjusting, tweeking, changing jets due to the carbs are too big for the engine. My Mikiuni's have been spot on since day one (with very little fine tuning). I did add an air/fuel gauge inside my glovebox to monitor things. I'll try to post a picture later this week.

Have you set your timing while maintaining a 3000 rpm and what NGK plug numbers are you running on?

For a fast test - take it to a local hot rod shop and have it dyno'd. Have them put put a sniffer up your tailpipe (ok - no wisecracks here). That way you will know if you are lean or fat and make your adjustments to your carbs live while you are on their screen. I'm betting your lean. That will rule in our rule out air/fuel adjustments. Once you do that you will be so impressed with the exact calibration you'll go and get an air fuel gauge and install in your car to know what is going on with your carbs. Reading plugs is ok but far from what a sensor and a gauge can tell you.........................IMO. I'm betting somebody within an hour drive of you has a dyno ready to take you car tomorrow!