Travel'n Man

Damn!! That looks like my kind of place!! Enjoy the ride!!

Why did you not separate the lens from the housing? It's amazing how clean you can get all that stuff once it's separated. I've got a spare set just in case I ever get AZZended.

Agreed - I've got a set as well, and they are fantastic! Helps so much to have balance sound! The speaker pods do not interfere with my clutch foot, unless I'm wearing some overly large shoes. It also finishes off the kick panels very nicely, and since they are a nice formed plastic, they don't ravel like the pressed cardboard does. Great upgrade for anybody that does not want to cut their door panels.

.......good wiring diagram for your year will be your best friend forever! Trust me - odds are you will need it. Tracking down electrical gremlins are tough sometimes - and sometimes it pays you to have a back up of a few of the important parts - combo switch is one and hazard switch is another. I've got a few in my parts bin in my garage with various other parts and pieces.

Do the Triples - you'll be glad you did! If I had it to do over again I would go on out and up to the stroker crank - a little bigger cam - 200HP at the wheels will take some $$.............trust me!

Been there as well - doesn't last and you must "sharpen" it up after a few years.

After a head has sat for so long I would really have to worry about any damage to the valves - if not handled correctly (and who knows how many people handled it) you could have some hidden damage. I'm assuming the intake and exhaust valves are in the head. You stated it was wrapped up in a bag - it really should have been protected in a box.

Did you loosen the 6 screws at the top of the dash finisher - place the dash cover in the groove so it seats correctly?

Jeff - Left you a PM........

Call or email Dave - PHONE: (925) 754-4871 DReb993524@aol.com

One of my projects for next year is to rework my glove box entertainment system to include a custom faceplate that houses the oxygen sensor and also be the faceplate for the remote radio. I do have my original radio where it should be and currently have a remote system in the glovebox that I am not overly excited about. That way I can have a location for the oxygen sensor dial and music dials.

1 to 10 psi should be fine if you have your fuel pressure regulator set - mine is below for reference if needed.

Great topic -I'm watching this one! Somebody has some pic's of what they have done with a success story to share I'm sure. Simple instructions, great ideas and we are good to go.........!

Our high this Saturday is forecasted to be 46 degree's and a little snow blowing in the late afternoon I'm really fired up to get the car(bs) out and let them SING!!

Jeff - I believe Bruce would know exactly what to set that pressure at - my Mikuni's are set at 3.5 psi. Pressure regulator is a must in my opinion. Best of luck. Let us know on that dyno once you get it finalized.

Jeff- Remember that you will need a block off plate for that mech fuel pump - they are still out there if you order one from your local Nissan dealer. Once you get your dyno numbers let me know what they are and let me know the type of dyno your car is getting dyno'd on. I just had mine dyno'd earlier this month - not any crazy numbers due to not jazzing up my cam to a higher stage number but all is good. I've got all the power and torque I could want for my needs. Sounds like your fuel delivery system is going to be great - be sure to get your best filter closest to the tank! i did put an in-expensive glass one between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel rail. My fuel pressure gauge is in my engine bay - be careful where you mount that since you do have live fuel running through it. Safety fire extinguishers are a must for any racer at any level - IMO

Jeff - When I purchased my head from Dave Rebello (along with engine rebuild parts and pieces) he instructed me to set my timing with high RPM @ 3500 - you may want to do that just to get all you can get out of your timing advance - I'm sure if you do a search you would get a lot of info and benefits from the different settings - it's all going to depend on your engine - cam - and head for your final setting though.

Just as important as the pump is the fuel pressure regulator - you really need to control that fuel flow! Get Bruce's idea on what PSI should be ran for your application with your engine set up and racing requirements - he would know the best! Most of all - keep that fire extinguisher handy for your first race!

Those Rag-Top Patrol's look great - put a safari bar on top and your good to go!

Carter Fuel Pump Holley 12-804 Fuel Regulator Holley 162-551 Fuel Filter

Just my two cents worth: 100 micron filter coming out of the tank (or stronger for racing - one the size of an oil filter would be best) to Electric fuel pump to Fuel Pressure regulator to 20 micron fuel filter to fuel line. Sounds like a pressure of fuel supply could be running short with the mech pump - I belive I have read that the mech pump can only supply 2.5 lbs of pressure. Sounds like you need a little more - keep us posted. What pressure setting do you have on your electric fuel pump? - I would take it to at least 3.5 to 4 psi and give that a shot (monitor your carbs while you are reviewing - I would hate for your to force out fuel of your SU's on to your hot header - fire safety equipment is a must at this point!

Very well said and I agree totally on each owners choices in their own cars. Unless you are wanting a 100% original car (which is just not practical in today's world and there are not many left that have not rusted out entirely) make your car the way you want to enjoy it. As I say - "life's a journey - enjoy the ride"!

Looks like this project is in the green - what a great thread (can't believe I have not followed it or seen it until now!). Best of luck with your sale!

Without spending massive money on major engine work - in the $10,000 range and beyond - you will not be able to generate the kind of horsepower that you are looking for unless you are Dave Rebello and have the talent and knowledge to make it happen. What is all the need for 1/4 mile performance? - are you only concerned in going straight real fast - if you are then you are looking into the wrong car, unless money is no object or you want to take the cheap route and drop a v-8 in the engine bay. In that case you just lost the entire concept for the 240Z intrigue and originality. To each their own though!

This is a good option for you - these folks did my header a couple of years ago in Greensboro NC - they have a few different locations. Pictures are in my "garage". http://jet-hot.com/