Travel'n Man

Electric fuel pumps are a little loud.................

Fantastic!! Keep us posted - if you're goin' to do it - it looks like you are doin' it right!

Agreed!

Update - Adding a 100 micron Holley Fuel Filter 162-551 between the tank and the fuel pump. I did have an overflow challenge on one of my carbs due to the needle valve sticking open. Naturally it was the carb over the header and the raw fuel was pouring right on top of the header - then I had the brainstorm of cupping my hand to catch the fuel - well, that was not a very good idea either if the header would have caught fire my hand full of fuel would have been right there with it. Looks like I'm going to be in the market for a fire extingisher as well.............just in case. Anyway - there is a project for next winter - pull the tank - clean & seal!

Are you aware there is a formula to go by to set up your triples............? The marriage has to be correct with the jets / air / choke/ for the system to work effeciently. It's a little more than just changing the Venturi size. Have you researched any for Webers - I am a Mikuni owner so I'm a little lost with the proper Weber set up.

My self-winding Rolex (1970's era) should have a maintenance check/cleaning every year, but at over $500 a pop needless to say - it gets serviced when needed. I did have it cleaned this spring. I cleaned the Datsuns' clock last fall and it is still clicking away - it looses approx 5 minutes every week but it is real easy to reset the time when I notice it is slow. I would have to guess at this point an annual cleaning is a little too late to matter..................

See if you can get intouch with The ZBarn - Roger has almost every part you could ever want - Rogers family has suffered a loss with his wife so if you do reach out to him it may take a while for him to get back in touch with you. Best of luck with your project! http://www.zbarn.com/

Welcome! Get ready for a great ride! If you use Motorsport Auto for parts remember we get a club discount on most parts - be sure to search and find out how to get the discount - it can add up in a hurry.

Welcome to the site - I'm a Hagerty member. Just make sure your agreed value is set where you want it to cover any potential loss.

The Hazard switch is easy to take out - two connections behind the dash - one screw in the front and out she comes -

Roger lost his wife last month due to a car crash..............I sent Roger a card with a note. I've been to his location twice - the old location and the new one that he moved to his house.

Get ready for a great ride!!

My set up is ideal for me..............see my garage or the below link to review http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42045-Wolf-Creek-Racing-Mikuni-40-s

It's amazing what a bid war can do for some of these parts - a signature clock just sold for over $1,000.00...............bumpers go for as much as engines...................carbs get more than heads..............a great dash is worth more than any of the above! If you ever want to restore one I would keep this one as a parts car and then get one with a great body and let the fun begin!!

Is the car running? Have you driven the car? Did you check the compression of each cylinder? I know the brakes are not up to par but you really may want to consider draining the fuel out of the tank (filter the drained fuel through a cheesecloth). That drained tank can help avoid tons of challenges down the road with your carbs. If the drained fuel is discolored or has junk in it go ahead a pull the tank and have it sealed. While you are at it the fuel filter can hold some secrets as well with the condition of the tank. If the tank has junk and the filter has junk odds are the filters in your carbs have junk as well. While you are under there go ahead and inspect your rear hatch and underbody fuel lines - you don't want to develop a fuel leak due to old brittle fuel lines that have been in the car since 1973. This will help with the fuel smell in the interior as well - these cars are famous for that. You can only expect what you inspect! A couple of hours making sure you fuel moves correctly will avoid tons of problems down the road. Get the DVD from www.ztherapy.com. It's just as important as any tool in your tool box to working on your carbs. After watching the DVD those "hard to understand carbs" make total sense. Before opening your carbs get from Nissan or ZTherapy some float bowl gaskets - once these things get a little age (and they have some fuel on them) they end up looking like Pringle potato chips. They are inexpensive and you might as well get a few extra while you are at it (odds are you will need them sooner or later). Be sure to inspect the fuel line from the float bowl to the bottom of each carb - if they are original you may want to go ahead and replace them as well - they are a little expensive for fuel line - don't get cheap here - buy the correct items. You may want to pull the radiator and have it rodded and checked for proper flow - the cost for mine was about $45 several years ago -anything you can do to make sure your engine is running, breathing, and staying cool should be tops on your to do list. So, if you have good brakes - got good fuel quality going to the balance carbs - proper cooling - and good compression for the engine - new plugs, points, that bad boy should run like a dream.................keep us up to date and............. ENJOY THE RIDE!! http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/60-9976

Welcome and get ready for a great ride!

Chad - In memory of your father - this is around 1978 in my first 240z (1973). I'm sure he would have been a great member on this forum!

Be sure not to over tighten - you will split the interior of the plastic screw holder. Get it snug and no more.

If you do not have a wiring diagram, and since we do not know what year your car is, here is an excellent starting point. Trust me - you'll need this sooner or later. http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=240z+diagram&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Great clip - she sounds great!

As Dave Rebello would say "Bitch'n!!"

I totally agree with theguppies - this is a total waste IMO - I know the clock is rare but how could any of us justify spending over $1000 on a clock - maybe a Rolex but not for a car by any stretch. Whats your thoughts on spending $1000 of your money on a clock for your car?

All right - I do see a locking gas filler lid - I have not ever done any research on a locking lid - 78820 E8200 - looks like you would need the lock - clip - lid. Section 85-2 up to July '73

Nissan - Cap Assy - 17251-N4501 - should fit any 240z series

I would call Todd - since this is your first post and we do not know if this is a new carb to a current engine or if you purchased the car with this set up. Was this set up for street driving and now you are autocrossing with higher fuel needs and higher RPM's.....at this point nobody knows. Do you have extra jets? What is your current set up of these carbs? We just don't have enough info. Todd has all the parts and knowledge you could need on these carbs - have you read the Mikuni manual - that would be a great starting place to familerize yourself with your set up. I would call Todd first thing before I turned a screw - but at least do a little reading and research before calling him - IMO. Todd Walrich Wolf Creek Racing 516-635-6775 Twalrich@wolfcreekracing.com www.wolfcreekracing.com