Travel'n Man

............ok, I'm going to visit the Boob thread!!

A Flying V with hot humbucker overwound pickups - makes me want to go fire up my Marshall!! Oh, what the hell, why not!! My ears ring all the time anyway!

Thanks to all that have posted so far! Chris - can you tell me about your fuel rail, heat shield, and the size of your fuel line please?

To all Triple Mikuni Owners: Please share your knowledge and tell me what size fuel line you ran to your triple Mikuni's...........thanks in advance! 40mm Mikuni's - Wolf Creek Racing Rebuilds I have been told: (Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing): Remove the current fuel rail Remove the current Mech Fuel Pump No return fuel line required Run: Tank to- In line Filter to- Electric Fuel Pump (5-9 psi) to- Fuel Pressure Regulator 3-3.5psi to- Fuel Filter to- Carb-Carb-Carb- dead head at end Heat Shield - yet to be fabricated - (does anybody have one you would like to sell - if so PM me) Todd is jetting and setting for my engine particulars and driving style (show and weekend cruising - never to be tracked). I elected not to go with the 44's due to just really not needing the extra power and air. Please post your Mikuni pictures so I can see your fuel line set up and the method you ran it -I know I want to keep the fuel lines away from the block and heat as much as possible - I think I am going to use a black braided fuel line like: http://www.k-tuned.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=11&products_id=65 Please share your fuel line sizing and any insight you may have for me with my upcoming adventure with Mikuni's

Welcome to the site!!

Welcome to the site - to respond to your question "where to start" I would begin with the search feature. There are a lot of talented and smart folks on this site that take pride in their cars and knowledge. Odds are any challange you are facing has already be documented and resolved. Try the search method first - if you are still questionable - post out to the group to get your best resolution By the way - don't take that dash out until you have searched for your issues.

Alright group - he is the close to this issue 1) Have your tach rebuilt - I used Chuck at www.gaugeguys.com 2) Dish out some bucks to have the work completed - $215.00 includes freight 3) Remove your pin wiring from the rear of the tach when you get it back 4) Plug in your removed 4 pin connection and zip tie out of the way behind the Tach housing (this way your loop in connected) 5) Make you 12v / ground / negative side of coil connection 6) Fire up your car and your tach is solid and good to go 7) Remount your light connections and turn signal connections 8) Check to make sure everything is working 9) Lay upside down and reconnect your wing nuts and then have anice glass of Balvenie Doublewood (light on the ice please) 12 years - Jack Daniels Oak cask and a Sherry Oak Cask for fantastic aging! If you car does not fire make sure you have your 4 pin connector well seated to make your loop connections - make sure you connection is clean at your negative side of the coil.

I'm using the oil that Dave Rebello with Rebello Racing recommends.........

I'll take that challenge - i would rather own my current Z as to have purchased a new 370. I am at the point where the money factor is about even - this is where I have elected to spend my money in the fashion that I want to - a matter a fact just spent $2K more on her the week on Triple Mikuni's. I am sure if I park my Z next to a 350 or 370 I will get more conversations with my old school than new school. Do you just want to start a argument with a challenge like that? By the way - my second collectible is a 1929 Model A Roadster.......seeing how you had to throw the Model T into the conversation................

There really is a wealth of knowledge here!! I've used Hagerty for several years and have both my collectible cars insured through them. They really just want the in a secure location with an agreed value.

Great looking projects and pictures - keep it up!!

Jon - Do you think 72 and before had the wiring bunded back there? I'm stepping up to electric fuel pump and regulator - any tips for install or brands?

Lokar Throttle Cable Kit - I'm getting ready to purchase one as well..........Harry, by the way - great to have you on the forum. Original owner!! http://www.racingonthecheap.com/throttle-linkage-vs-throttle-cable/

If you want to know how to tweak every bit of power from your L24-L26-L28 call Dave - you can go mild to wild!! He is a super knowledgeable guy and will share his opinion on how to get what you want out of your engine. Of course nothing is cheap (especially performance!!) http://www.rebelloracing.com/

Joker72z - very well said! Tymarbry - Life is full of choices for all of us! Spend the time to do your own research - make buddies with your local Nissan Dealer Parts Manager - let him know what you are working on - you know the last time they saw a Datsun 240 at their dealership - give him the Nissan part number you need - Benefits Original Nissan part (when still available) No shipping charge (or at least for me) Two day turn around if ordered before noon (in my area) Maybe a discount if you ask for one - my Parts Manager gives me their body shop rate - 20% discount

I see you are a man with very few periods...............

Arnold - Welcome to the site - great to have another North Carolinian on the forum! Knock on wood but I have never had to tow my car except on a rollback - get some pictures up when you get your car and post some in your virtual garage. Get ready for a great ride!

I disconnected mine from the firewall - bypassed the entire system - on my to do list but I did not want an unplanned leak...........another project on my to-do list right after a 5 speed transmission

Ray - Dennis is right; some of the joys of preparing for the ride little tougher than others. If I remember correctly I bought my rebuilt master cylinder from Napa along with other brake parts. Wheel cylinders were are little harder and had to wait a week or so (be sure to check them for proper movement). Pads and so forth were local (that was a few years ago when I battle those issues). I remember beating the hell out of my rear drum - it took me 2 days just to get the drum off the car - ........the joys of preparing for the drive!! (I try not to remember the joys of spending the money!!) Be sure to research the Nissan part numbers and make buddies with your local Nissan dealer parts manager- tell him what you are working on. My hometown Nissan dealership gives me parts at the body shop rate (and I don't have to pay shipping) and I order on a Monday and it's ready for me to pick up on Wednesday afternoon. Remember - they can not research the number for you - you will need to furnish it to them. Hang in there and take each curve as it comes.............I've (just like most of us) had endless curves for almost 5 years now and still have a few more to come.

.............some people say to extend your exhaust tip out beyond the rear bumper............I say "what the hell, it's a sportscar!!" Crack a window or speed up!!

Possible trash in your float bowls blocking fuel flow. If you open your float bowls be ready to replace your float bowl gaskets (always a great idea to keep a few extra on hand - once you take a float bowl gasket off it will curl up like a pringle potato chip). Be careful not to edit the setting of your float - inspect your fuel and drain - wipe clean - inspect your float to make sure it is opening and closing with ease. With trash in your float bowl moving around in that fuel it could be cutting fuel supply and causing your problem. With all that rust that was in your fuel tank if you have not replaced your fuel filter it would be a fine time to knock that out as well. All these parts are available at your local Nissan dealer or one of our fine sponsors.

Welcome to the site and the true joy of driving!! Pull your passenger rear quarter panel and your rear tail light panel. Odds are your fuel lines behind those panels are old and brittle - replace and you should be good to go. Exhaust and fuel smells are different......right? Exhaust would be while the car is running and fuel would be while the car is sitting (not started).........all IMO.

Great job - excellent workmanship and detail!

Todd - can you tell me how the re-builder had you wire your tach please.

Thanks for the kind words Don't forget these so all your music is not coming from the back - easy install - I was concerned about the pods being in the way of my left foot but so far no issues - I did have to do a little cutting to get the top area to fit a little better but only took a few minutes with a plastic cutter l and a file and I was good to go...................balanced music and great exhaust - pleasure to my ears!! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32386&page=3&highlight=front+speaker