Travel'n Man

LSD!! Experimenting!! Sounds like the '70's to me......... Check out my garage - the MSA rear speakerbox is fantastic as well as the kick panel speaker pods......both very easy installs with a great look once you are finished.

Call Dave Rebello and have a conversation with a racing professional! He can guide you in the right direction -mild to wild - ship you what parts you want to buy from him - I, much like you, have a N42-N42 combo with a little Rebello tweeking.........I am still in the break in period from last fall - (damn snow and salt). I would have to think honing would be your very first step with either block of your pick. Start clean and fresh and follow up with a re-build. I did go to flat tops, 240 rods, with a Dave doing all the head work with a mild cam. Dave and his team are great and they know their stuff and will share information with you. He can help a little or a lot - depending on your budget.........he has the goods....check this link out below. http://www.rebelloracing.com/

It's all about personal choice and if you are going strictly stock. From the factory the front tunnel - shock towers -deck riser were vinyl and the rear deck and both floorboards were carpet. I bought both sets (still have the vinyl) but ended up using the carpet - for my taste it was just a little more modern and would help insulate the car from noise a little better. Rear panels can be found from most of our site sponcers in many of the original interior colors. Before you put in the rear panels be sure you have inspected your fuel lines back there - now is the time to replace while the panels are off. I didn't replace mine at the time (for some dumb reason) got home on afternoon and fuel was leaking in my garage.......not a good thing! If those lines have never been replace go ahead and do it just for the safety!

When ever I look for a specialist to work on my Z my first question is "how old are you"? Most don't even know what a Datsun is......much less a 240Z or anything about it.........age does matter.

Refer to post #2 Packaged my tach up today to UPS'd back to the repair shop - scheduled to get there on Thursday - stay tuned - we will see what happens to this tach...............................there must be a better way!!

Could have been the oil sending unit - these are prone to go out do to age - did you check the connection for the sender?

I would be nervous every time I closed the hood!! Find a fuel rack - get in touch with Roger at THE Z BARN in Tenn. I'm sure he has dozens in his storage.

I have been battling the tach question for the past several months - I have bought a couple tachs off ebay with no luck with none working correctly. Last year I completed an engine rebuild and upgrade to electronic ingition and fried my perfectly good tach. So after several bad ebay purchases I made up my mind to have my tach rebuilt here: http://www.gaugeguys.com/repair.htm I just got my tach back last week and yesterday re-wired per the new set up and instructions from the rebuild shop - three connections: 1 - 12volt 1 - ground 1- negative side of coil I left the original set up all connected and ran alligator clips for the set up above - direct battery connections and direct coil connection - No start -(I then plugged into the 4 pin connector one that I had that has in incorrect RPM reading and the car fired right up so I know the rebuilt tach is the problem) so I called the fine folks up at APT Instruments and an shipping the $215.00 tach back to them so they can address - somebody needs to figure out a rebuild for our tachs so we can plug and play and have a normal correct reading. Don't mind to pay the money, but I want the damn thing to work after dishing out the bucks.............. Anybody had any success out there??

Have you rechecked your oil level - are you leaking oil and maybe don't know it? Noise just started going to the gas station and 20 miles ago just completed an oil change..............

Have you tried just bypassing the regulator that is currently in line so see if that drops your psi down to the required level with your current fuel pump.........is there an inline fuel pressure gauge that you are getting a reading from?

Start with your inline fuse and then your ground - they may look good to the eye but .................

I would research the proper adjustment for those Choke cables - they are very sensitive to over adjustment and make you car run too rich - you need to make sure that you have enough slack and movement for them to work correctly If I remember correctly a 240 only needs 4psi for fuel pressure. I would have to guess you need to purchase a new correct fuel pump to get the correct psi to the carbs - there are many sponsors of this site that carry them - very easy correction.....but be sure to research first. I would recommend you to research all you can on 4 screw carbs to get the correct float setting - psi reading - rebuild and so forth. A great investment is the CD's that you can buy from here - this is a great starting place along with your own research: http://www.ztherapy.com/

What ever you do.....do this! http://www.jet-hot.com/

It looks like they may be available from Nissan still also.

Black Dragon has some of the parts but not all

Tach and Speedo come out the front - very tight fit. The fuel, clock,and oil pressure (I think) come out the back of the dash. It will be difficult to get the tach and speedo out with the dash glued in place. See if you can heat the dash cover and let it glove fit with no adhesive............

Finally - got my clock and gauges pulled - replaced lights and worked on clock. She is ticking a gaining 2 minutes every 24 hours - moved the setting back a bit and going to watch her for 24 more hours - Cleaned up all the lens - a fresh coat of trim paint from SEM and all is good..............so far. Had to send in the tach for rebuilding due to frying it. Ouch - that was an expensive cooking of my tach $200.00 for rebuild.

Love it!!

I have a original '72 with my L28. I did take it to the radiator shop and had them boil and rod it. No issues at all. I believe they charged my $45. I painted the radiator (except for the fins). Got a MSA shroud and all is good (without that big alum. radiator in the front!)

...............and the journey begins!! Congratulations!

You adjust your hood by the hinged section of the hood by the front bumper. You really need two people to do this with ease.......sightly loosen the four screws on the hood near the front of the car - and ease changes. Be very gentle with and make sure your edits give you straight lines with all the hood and fender area's before you close. This will correct your closing issues. Again, don't slam anything until your changes are final and correct.

Dan- Welcome! I'm sure you have some great stories of you and your Z!! Thirty-fours years worth - come on and tell us one of your favorites!!

Here is YOUR number - 23771 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member.php?u=23771 It's in your contact info - good luck on the low compression - that can be a challange!

Dean- I have a buddy that just had his Factory Five totaled. Dumbazz chick hit him from behind and pushed him into incoming traffic - then he got clipped from the front by a Ford F150..........no severe injuries but he was lucky. Great framework by Factory Five and a solid kit! He had that tuned to be a real powerhouse. Make sure you have your insured to your max! He did NOT use Hagerty and wished he did. There is an older gentleman about 40 miles from me that has an original - logged on the Shelby Cobra Registry - amazing time capsule - no side pipes! He has quite the collection!! http://classicfordgarage.com/

Daryl, I would have to think your first purchases for your car would need to include one of Bruce's CD's. They offer two different ones and they really detail the complete breakdown - rebuild - fuel adjustment - float adjustment - part replace - of the Hitachi carbs on our cars (excellent way to thoroughly educate you and you son on how these carbs work). Trust me - after reviewing and practicing you will be the go to guy in your community for dual carb set up. Another item I would strongly recommend is a Datsun Parts manual (you can find these on e-bay every now and again). I purchased mine from Kuwait and it has helped me save a small fortune in parts. If you do your own research with part numbers your local Nissan parts manager can order them for you on his orders and you will not have any freight charge and no mark up for eBay....big savings. A lot of parts are N/A but a lot of parts are out there in the Nissan system - you gotta have the Datsun number to find them and the parts managers do not have a way to reference in their new system unless you give them the part number. For the parts book use this link and send the Saad a message - he may have some more left.........http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-1200-240Z-280ZX-510-Bluebird-SSS-key-type-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f8567d37QQitemZ300519161143QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories MSA (Motor Sport Auto) does offer us a discount - you will need to supply them with your CZCC member number and they will tag your account with a discount when you order parts from them. We do have sponsors that do help support the site - their info is in the upper right hand corner and does change on every log on Best of luck with your project!