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Travel'n Man

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Everything posted by Travel'n Man

  1. I'm agreeing with Guy - I think nobody has generated 200 RWHP without changing the entire dynamics of the L24 engine.
  2. My dyno was to the rear wheels -154.11 hp 172.21 torque - I'm sure with very little effort I could increase those numbers, but I'm happy where I am - for street/show what are you going to do with all that HP anyway.........
  3. Have you dyno'd your Z with measurements to the wheels - just wondering?
  4. I agree with Guy (above) - even with a L28 it's hard to get to 200HP at the wheels. You can always but in a loud cam with a lot of noise but I really don't want an engine with a rough idle...............unless you use it at the track what is all that HP going to do for anybody other than braggin' rights anyway? If you really want 200+ HP call Dave Rebello (Rebello Racing) and get ready to hand him your American Express - he can build it if you want it!
  5. Welcome to the site - get some photos up when you get a chance!
  6. No problems on either end - my angle is great with no interference at all.
  7. Edward - Not sure how you came up with your shipping cost, but when I made my purchase of the heat shield along with the fuel rail shipping was $35.00.
  8. I would strongly recommend typical fuel line - I spent a fortune on fuel line that leaked like a sieve and ended up using good ole USA fuel line - I tried to use a mesh one that looked original but could not stop the leaks - just trying to save you some $$
  9. Great photo - I think you should post a few more! My L28 is a little rough until she warms u,p and then she is fantastic!
  10. How many of us had a crash our first year with our new drivers license? I think most first year drivers do have accidents - the Z does not have many safety features and I personally think this is an error - lets get the most unsafe car in the family and give it to the newest driver - not a good idea IMO - now if this was going to be your car (primary driver) that is a different story. Best of luck!
  11. I will not get another dyno completed until Spring - FYI - it's too soon till the end of driving season at this point. There is a formula you use to set up your triples - have you used that set up guideline? It is in the Mikuni manual - have you discussed your challenges with Todd at Wolf Creek Racing?
  12. Jon - The next time I dyno - I'll go with filters and without filters to find out if there is a restriction -
  13. My inertia switch switch is located on the passenger side firewall next to the battery (bright red) - very straight forward wiring through the relay - only for the fuel pump. These switch's will surprise you on the expense of them but if you have a wreck and the car takes a large enough impact that switch will save your life - better than the fuel pump running and pumping fuel out with no control...........when I installed it I was afraid a large enough pot hole or bump in the road would set it off but it takes more than that. I have yet to have a false impact yet.
  14. Brent - Welcome to the site (member since 2003 with only 1 post)! You've had plenty of time to get your research done. What are you doing with the engine and so forth? Looks like you are starting the quest.................
  15. Binh asked me to post a couple of pics of my intake - best of luck with your Mikuni quest!
  16. Just a suggestion - you may want to research putting the original air breather/filter back on your car - it has built in air horns that will give you more power than you are getting currently with the filter set up your are running. IMO...................
  17. You do not need a choke with the Mikuni's - pump the accelerator a few times - crank the engine and just so you have done your homework correctly she will fire up! But if you have not done you homework - installed incorrect jets - guessed on how to set up triples you are going to have problems - if you are not willing to do some research and set your triples up correctly, it would be best for you to stay with SU's cause you're going to have problems. Once Mikuni's are set up correct - and you got a correct air fuel reading (not too lean - not too rich) your basically done until your annual fine tuning. Here is the link to my info for my Mikuni set up http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42045-Wolf-Creek-Racing-Mikuni-40-s
  18. You're going to tease us with only one picture - what the hell?
  19. If you don't have an item number at Black Dragon - your out of luck for help what so ever (and basically all they can give you is a price or availability) - much rather call MSA any day and talk to a knowledgeable call center staff!
  20. I hate electrical gremlins! I would start with the turn signal switch - then move to each of the exterior lights one by one - you'll find it eventually. Not an easy way to find issues like that.
  21. Yep..........click below to review the details http://www.momousa.com/products/products/steering-wheels/competition-steering-wheel.html
  22. I'm diggin' the green - I just don't understand why the fenders and headlight buckets were left on for painting when everything else was removed? Oh well - doesn't matter - she is going to be pretty either way! Keep us in the loop.
  23. Jared - I can relate - I just sold my 1929 Ford Model A Roadster last week - I've had Model A's now for 6 or 7 years and have really loved the era of that car. I sold my original 1929 tool display as well as extra parts and pieces. The gentleman that purchased the car drove from Ohio to NC last Saturday and spent 6 hours with me as I gave him a tutorial on tuning and walked him around the car so he would know what I have done to it. Sometimes it's tough to let one go but if the next steward has as much passion and caring for the car as you or I did then it will be in good hands!
  24. Todd - Posted at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43347-S30-Steering-wheel-discussion&p=379520#post379520
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