Travel'n Man

Ray- Welcome to the site. As you already know all us guys really like to look at pictures - get some posted so we can see what you have been sitting on for the past 38 years!

The Pilot system is designed to supply the proper amount of mixture for the engine at idling and low-to-medium speeds The Main system supplies the fuel when high output power is required as in medium-to-high speeds, acceleration, up slopes......... Sounds like you need to discuss with Todd the proper set up for your Pilot system

I'm in the market for a Competition Steering Wheel. I had my hands on one last week and the purchase fell through. If anybody out there has one that they are in the market to sell please PM me.

Replaced my hazard switch - cleaned and adjusted my turn signal switch - now I need to bypass or correct my reostate for my dash lights (getting hot on top of the unit and no dash lights)...........just as it's said above (you gotta love old cars!).

Chris - You may want to go back to your salvage yard one more time - if you don't have an extra hazard switch I would strongly recommend for any of us to have an extra. Remember - most of your lights go through the hazard switch (as well as the turn signal switch - ie brake lights). It just take a few minutes to pull and is worth while to get you hands on one when you need it. I've been battling brake lights for 2 weeks and finally tonight got them finalized with replacing the hazard..................just a thought.

Jim - My heart goes out to Rogers and his kids! I agree...........understandable. We really do have a great group don't we!

Try Roger at www.zbarn.com - I bought mine there and restored it - all the parts and pieces were included - I think I paid around $50 if I remember correctly

Rogers wife's name was Sandi - I know Roger has helped a lot of us with parts and pieces over the years - I'm going to drop him a card of support - I hope some of you do the same. Roger Schmidt The Z Barn 412 Howard Jones Rd Maryville, TN 37801

While that radiator is out I would go ahead and get it boiled and rodded - in NC it was only around $40 and a good $40 to spend ensuring one less future possible problem.

Around 4-5 days - pretty quick considering it's coming from Japan! No need for 3 barb fuel rail? I did not want to dead head the end of my fuel line and with all the research I have done did not want to run the return line back. I discussed with Dave Rebello and a few other folks and nobody recommended the return line at all. I have not had any issues at all with my set up other than great sound and tons of power and torque.............:classic: What filter did you end up going with?

I have had a few folks interested in how I located the Fuel Railing and Heat Shield. I sourced these items from OER Corporation: Contact: Yikio Junabiki - OER Customer Service http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/ yuiko@tatsumi-company.com http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/56 Heat Shield for L6 3 Barb Fuel Rail for L6 EMS Shipping My delivered total was approx $170 - all monies were handled through PayPal I do not think that OER stocks the fuel rail and may depend on availability from their source.

Steve - Have you visited my link to Wolf Creek? Are you interested in the fuel rail and heat shield that I used? Let me know and I can give you my contact's name so you can get the same heat shield and fuel rail I used if you are interested - total costing was approx $170 including shipping from Japan. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42045-Wolf-Creek-Racing-Mikuni-40-s I just updated my original post on the Mikuni's - contact info there With the longer Cannons you may not need the shortened studs.........

Did you Google "rebello racing"?

Steve - Best of luck on your project. Some great pic's of your helper above. Those are some good times! You may want to think about getting a throttle cable from Wolf Creek or Summit (Summit was $20.00 cheaper) - my throttle hook up was a disaster and ended up costing me $125.00 for an extra piece that was unusable and could not get a credit for it - I was a little pissed...........if I can assist any give me a PM. Are you getting a Mikuni complete set up? Be careful with a short intake - you will need to get shortened studs due to the fact the current studs will not line up so you can bolt them on (not enough room).

Brian- Have you confirmed your block - a lot of things change with different owners...........if you are looking for advise and parts try Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing. He can answer all your questions and sell you some stuff - either stock or mods - it's all your choice on what you are looking for....................welcome to the site!! Get ready for a great ride!!

I had a shake and just had my wheels / computer balanced by the same location that had been doing my tire work for years - I decided to take it and get a second opinion - ended up being .5 to1.0 oz out of balance - now..............I have a new tire man! Go with the newer equipment - not a old tire guy that does not update his equipment. Not saying this will fix yours but it got 99.5 of the shake out of mine. Best of luck - keep us posted!

Updated pictures from the Wings & Wheels Air Show

Welcome to the site - you gotta love a good project!

Great looking set up! You gotta' love the sound of those triples!! Be sure to go into the "garage" area and put some more pics on there for us along with engine details. Be sure to get some sort of filters for those triples - you don't want to suck up anything too large if you are driving on the street. Make sure you are running the correct psi for your triples to avoid future challanges. Welcome to the site. Oh, by the way.........the GT-R is not bad either!

Did you clean the very top contact of the T/S switch - that is the contact point for the brakes (it's easily missed)? If it's not the brake switch (which you should be able to read power very easily) - you will need to go straight back to you hazard switch. All the lighting power goes through the hazard switch from the fuse panel before it routes itself to the T/S switch and to your brake lights. It just takes a couple of minutes to pull it out - I just got finished rebuilding a couple of them due to the exact same problem. Let me know if you need an extra one and I'll sell it to you for the same price I paid for it. (I'll need to have a picture of your switch end sytle if you need a back up one). I've got a couple extra - this is one of those parts that I believe everybody should have an extra of to keep one one the shelf (along with a headlight switch - turn signal switch and so forth). When you had your hazard switch out you did see the two ball bearings and springs correct - and they got seated back ok right? It's easy to put the contacts in upside down as well if you dismantled your unit - that is why i like to keep an extra - nobody likes having "no brake lights". Simpsonville?? Greenville?? My son graduated from Furman a couple years ago with his Masters - beautiful campus and great area. Downtown Greenville has some great nightlife.

Most of us that have put $Z$ into our cars do it for the love of the car - not for the resale value! I have no plans or intentions to sell my car - my long term plan is to give it to my son once I get too old to enjoy it, and let him be the next steward of the car. If the car was given to you make it the car that you can be proud of - build it up the way that you envision it - whether it is stock or modified. Get on KBB and see the values of 240Z's. A solid paint/body refresh and interior refresh will but you over the edge - so again - most of us don't do it for the resale value. Welcome to the site and get those pictures up when you get a chance!!

She looks great!

I'm a full believer of the total advance setting - all of us drive our cars around the 2500-3500 rpm mark - with that theory the total advance setting would be correct. Not many of us drive at idle..............a timing light with a total advance adjustment is a must for any toolbox!

She looks great!

Patrick - You have the same mixture nuts I have on my SU's (currently in storage). The lock downs can get a little tight and you may need to bend them or you fingers will have a hard time turning the nuts. Once my carbs were set I never had any free movement of the mixture nuts so bend the hold downs if needed. If you have not purchased the SU DVD from Z Therapy it is really a good purchase - great overview tutorial, and you know how us guys like to watch movies! Be sure to read your plugs to confirm your settings.