Travel'n Man

Happy Thanksgiving to all - we own a fraiser fir tree farm so this weekend will be totally insane with choose and cut Christmas Trees!! Everybody have a great Holiday Season from Western North Carolina!

1 sold - two to go!

Welcome - good luck with your quest!

Great video - I've seen it several times and it's always great!

Great work!

Welcome - looking forward to seeing some pictures!!

Ray- The best thing you can do is to take a couple of hours and use the search feature on this site. I'm sure that somebody has battled your same battle and have posted it on this site.......and odds are there are pictures also. So, sit back, do a little studying, a little learning on how these cars work, and life will be much easier after you learn what you have and how you can fix it.

I would have to agree with Gary - you have several different things going on. You said the carbs were rebuilt - did a qualified shop rebuild them? How long did the car run perfectly until it began these challanges - how long have you owned the car - did you just buy it? If it has been sitting since '02 you need to start at the gas tank and work your way to the carbs - I'm sure it is all gunk'd up in there - was this the first time the car was ran since '02? Don't do anything until you can use this site to search, read, and learn about your particular car and type of carbs and dizzy on your car -if the car has been sitting for 8 years don't even put in a new plug until you have cleaned out your gas tank and the float bowls, nozzles - checking the fuel line from the bowls to the carb - this is a very special piece of fuel line - do not go cheap replacing it - use the correct item once you replace it. While you have all the gas out of the tank you will want to inspect all the fuel lines though-out the car (I'm sure you will be surprised with what you find) I would begin with a fresh tune up - make sure all your setting are correct with timing - dizzy - plugs - valves / then once all that is refreshed and correct do some research on your carbs - I've been reading on mine for several years now so don't expect to learn it all overnight - you very well could have different issues going on with float level - nozzles - a bad rebuild - incorrect idle adjustment - crap in your bowls -old set up fuel - and old lines that could be cracked letting in air.......the list can go on. Once you have read up and studied you will need to reset your carbs to the basic setting and then fine tune from there................once completed your carbs will be fantastic! Keep us posted with your findings.

While you are ordering floats grab some float bowl lid gaskets - you'll be glad you did........those damn things curl up like a pringles potato chipROFL

Be extremely careful with your current set up and driving your car - you could be doing some serious damage to your battery and could include exploding due to exessive overcharging..........IMO. Have you tested your battery while the car is started for overcharging? If not, I would do that ASAP.......IMO You need to inspect each and every wire on both the male side and female side - you have something not making a good connection in that juction. Once you find your culprit wire you can jump it to the correct wire outside you voltage regulator to correct the connection - or figure out a way to secure the connection in the male and female plug - it sounds to me like a wire has disconnected from either of the sides of the plug to the voltage regulator.

I would be extremely concerned with the voltage regulator!! Where did you get it and are all the connections secure on both the male and female side? Whats going on with your Altmeter? Is it outside the + side - off the gauge?

Let us know your tips and tricks to reading a properly air/fuel mix spark plug. Be sure to state your cars manufacturing date, engine type, and what type of fuel supply you are running. I would have to guess that carb'd cars vs fuel injected cars would have different looking plugs. I am really looking for a perfect color'd plugs with '72 carbs - show us what you've got and how you read them. http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

College first - the Z can always wait on a higher education!!

Fantastic!! As you will find out all of us that have done what we have done to our cars really like projects - hats off to you and take you time, do a lot of reading and researching. There is so much knowledge at this site with a lot of great people eager to assist. Use the search feature a lot and jump in...........welcome!!

Did you try the plugged fuel line? If that did fix it - the complete solution is the flow guide valve (I just corrected the one on my car) - check out the FSM and there is a detailed picture on how the hoses are to be attached - not saying that is what is wrong with your car but it could correct your challange. If you reconnect your flow guide valve be sure to hook back up your fuel rail return the way it should be IMO

Found it!! My flow guide valve was not hooked up correctly after my rebuild went in - it may not look it but that valve is important on the performance of your engine - (needless to say). Thanks to all for guideing me through the thought process!

My car has started running very rough once warmed up - almost to a shut down point at higher rpms - rechecked my floats and they were dead on - I deceided to plug my return fuel line and that fixed the problem. Full rpm's and great responce at any speed and rpm. Here is my challange - I would rather have my return fuel line doing it's job and my railing not getting hot with sitting fuel in the railing. 1) What would have caused this error in my fuel system 2) Is it safe to maintain a plugged fuel return line I just finished a 20 mile drive and as soon as I got back in my garage I felt the fuel rail for temp - the rear section (closest to the firewall) was the hottest and I could touch it without getting burned but it was very warm. Share your thoughts-

Try plugging off your return fuel line right at the end of the fuel rail (don't cut your current fuel hose - get a new piece of fuel line and plug it with a bolt and re attach) - you could have an issue with the return. If it runs ok after that you will have to dig into your fuel system. Keep us posted with your updates

Have you used the search feature to see if anybody has posted pictures of the different types of 5 speed transmissions, or maybe if the covers are different with each one? It's amazing what kind of info you can stumble on while looking for stuff!! IMO that's half the fun of it! - It's kinda like connect the dots when we were kids - you never know what it is going to turn into until you are nearly finished!

Bore-and-Hone the block - don't skimp on that! Get a qualified machine shop to put the new pistons on the rods and balance The amount gained in displacement is minimal with increasing to 3.0 (without changing the crank) - most of the gain you will have is in the head - I would put on a bigger cam into the head - hopefully you will only have the engine out one time for this type work so get it right the first time - use the search key - educate yourself with what others have done! Keep us posted!

If you still have discoloration at the plugs - wet with oil or gas - you may want to back down on your carb setting - FWIW

Julio- If you don't mind post another picture of the engine side of your hood - I'm liking that and want to see the entire hood - thanks in advance - great job with the car!

Can anybody add the complete re-assembly of the actual horn unit to this post. It would be a great break-down, restore, and reassembly thread. Post it if you've got it please.

OK!! OK!! Just don't say the four letter word again!! Well - with the 4000' elevation we get a lot of that white stuff.....I don't mind a little, but not every weekend for 3 months.......geeze!! Back to the smok'n tires, engines, and leaf change!

Off topic but............I hate to rub it in with you West Coasters but - if you're not on the East coast this weekend your in the wrong place!! Suntastic!! Leaf change is starting at 4000' and not a cloud in the sky and in the mid 70's.............I'll take this as long as I can get it!