Travel'n Man

Randy - If you can find a Nissan parts book for your year (sometimes on e-bay - the book is easier to go through than the web site) you can get the best of both worlds if the Nissan is still making the part. Usually there is no freight added and most of these dealers will like to assist somebody bringing one of these cars back to life. My local Nissan dealer parts manager gives me all my parts at body shop pricing but I do have to furnish the Nissan numbers to him - some parts are no longer made but some are. Most parts that he has to order are ususally 2-3 days out but I don't mind for OEM parts..........good luck on your project.

Tell us it ain't so..............

I just installed and they are dead on perfect (exact match). I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend - in the middle of an engine rebuild with completed engine bay with a Rebello Head......more to come later in the week with pictures

Here is the scoop! Nisan Part Number 16174-E8801 Insulator Carbu Brand new Insulators for your carbs comes with gaskets - order them from your local Nissan Parts Manager - beautiful color insulators with brand new attached gaskets - this is all one part - insulator with gaskets attached to both sides from the factory. My Nissan Parts Manager charged me under $12.00 each - I hope this helps somebody on down the road

Great thread guys - this is good stuff.

Call Dave Rebello - he can hook you up!! If you are keeping the L24 I would have to suggest head work to maximize your HP output -some cam work - some porting work - life is good! http://www.rebelloracing.com/

Fantastic looking engine bay!

Here is a great write up if you have not read it: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm

High Octane will be the fix and the correction. Dave Rebello has discussed that with me last week before they shipped the head. Thanks for your input!

Cam is a regrind from Rebello's......268/.480

Call Dave Rebello - he will hook you up with all the power you want or all want to spend........it's all your choice. I personally would go with the rebuild on the L28 with some of Rebello Racing magic!

Dave Rebello has completed my N42 head - cam - porting - flat top pistons - 240 rods - compression 10:1 Car is due out of the body shop this week for refreshing of engine bay - going with black from the firewall to the front of the radiator support - 110Red from the radiator support to the end of the car - engine bay taken down to raw metal - excess holes welded. Engine going to be dipped - bored - honed this week - engine block to be 110 Red (same color as car) Header and Heat Shield Jet Hot Coated Engine rebuild and install over the next 10 days..........pictures to follow

Does anybody have the Nissan item number for the gasket that goes on both sides of the Insulator (Nissan 16174-E8800) for the carbs to manifold? I have my engine out and carbs broke down and can not find the item number for Nissan in the June '74 Issue parts book or on any past post....... Carbs are Hitachi's: HJG46W-F8 HJG46W-R8 Thanks in advance!

Bruce - you're just not right!!

Jake- Welcome to the site - there is a ton of knowledge here so be sure to do a little searching and odds are it has been discussed in the past. I live over in Boone and travel into the Winston Salem - Greensboro area weekly. It sounds like your son has hit the jack pot once you find the issues and get the car up and running. Below is a link of a shop in Lewisville and the owner use to race Z Cars - I personally have not taken my car to him but I have heard very strong comments with his L24-26-28 engine knowledge. http://www.b2byellowpages.com/company-information/89002350-r-v-performance-specialist.html

Derek- This is fantastic - I'm ready to buy when you have it right - let me know! A shallow speaker pod would be fine for me to allow as much room from the dead pedal and the cluch petal. Tunes up front would be perfect. Keep us tuned in once you get it right and get a jig set up to produce these! Fantastic work!!

A labor of love - great job!

John- I have the same unit in my '72. I left the original radio in tact with all the connections. I added a radio cable "Y" and pulled from the "Y" side and furnished the Model 1 through the same radio lead. It works really well because I wanted the original look of the original radio. Then I mounted the Model 1 in the glovebox and use the remote to access it so I have two seperate systems sharing the same antenna lead. Hope that helps - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37020&highlight=retro

Julio- Can you detail your engine break-in for me. My rebuild is getting close and Rebello Racing is shipping my head at the end of this week. I have already saved some threads to read up on but wanted to know how yours is going. Dave Rebello told me to keep a load on the engine (with the brakes) and maintain RPM's at around 2500 - 3500 until the brakes got hot. Then normal driving with frequent oil changes. He also recommended a 50-50 mx of oil: 50% Pennzoil GT Racing Oil 20/50 50% Motorcraft 5w/30 Synthetic Blend I was going to change at 50 - 100 - 500 - 750 - 1000 and then normal mileage along with filter ( I will not complete this until next driving season as fall is closing in on us in the Western-N.C. mountains. Any tips? Thanks in advance!

Chicken man- Where ever you apply for and what ever you want to do - do a little researching on the location you are going to apply at. Learn about that particular business - show a sincere interest and be knowledgeable of that location (year they started in business - annual sales - different awards they have won - just anything that can set you apart from another applicant that is looking for the same job - a trip to their bathroom can tell you a lot about a business (ie car dealership). Come in dressed for the part - no trashed jeans/a nice pair of khaki's - a nice golf shirt/no teeshirt - a nice pair of shoes/no tennis shoes. If you got body jewelry take it off - if you have body ink cover it up, if you need a haircut go and get one............too many kids today think for some reason that society owes them something for some reason. Be sincere, honest, and willing to learn and work with a positive attitute. Let your future boss know that you have a goal and what it is - I'm am betting that your goal of fixing up a 280Z will generate a great conversation that will start something like this - - "My buddy use to have one of those and let me tell you about it............" I didn't mean to ramble but I'm betting if you play your cards right any dealership you walked into would be interested in you and helping you achieve your goals...........good luck...... What part of Northern Virginia are you in? I use to live in Richmond and Culpepper back in the mid 60's. Remember; plan your work and work your plan!!

ZTrain - your just not right!!

Julio- I installed my about this time last year - total solid shifts still. One of the best mods I've done.

Get some of Mama's clear fingernail polish and put a few drops on the flapper control - that will keep it "glued" until you need to reposition it and break it loose - old Ford Model A trick..............

Tim- Welcome to the site. I'm just northwest of you a couple of hours in Boone. You may want to use the search feature to research your problems. Most every angle of our cars have been discussed many times with many different angles to fix, improve, modify, change, or enhance what ever issue is at hand. If you can't find your fix, post your concerns out to the group. There are many extremely knowledgeable folks on this board and know these cars inside and out. I have very limited knowledge on the 280's since I deal with a '72. Good luck on your project - I would have to agree for you to start with the radiator and take it out to have it cleaned - rodded - and boiled. While you have the gas tank out I would have it cleaned and coated. Use the search feature and there will be detailed pics on how to DIY with most projects along with detailed info!

Welcome - get some pictures up when you get a chance.