JSM

Wow. That's crazy. I started out with my real name then went fake due to friends of friends crap. I just didn't like it so it went away. FB contact policy reminds of why I don't like internet companies like eBay and PayPal. Go to contact someone and your stuck waiting on email! Like what, you can take my money but not provide phone support? It's like "we're cutting edge".... no phone support.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/z-datsun-rolling-shell-was/6376361270.html

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/2017/11/17/tesla-unveils-electric-big-rig-truck-amid-manufacturing/

That's the hard part for me. Was looking for a reasonable responsible for a Z31 question on the AAC valve. One person was like I just delete crap like that. I was like, how, what, wait, you know what this thing does, etc., Crickets. The young seem to want to help, but have no clue what they are talking about.

I use a made up name.

Seems all I hear lately is how great FB and how Forums are dead, So I joined one. Posted a question and got mostly poor advice and straight out junk. Now the response was fast, but as far as level of accuracy, terrible. What have you all experienced? One thing I hate is the for sale section of parts on FB. You scroll forever and I have to see all this crap that just blinds you. Maybe there is a setting to block all that so all I see is line items, no comments and no pics.

Hopefully you kept those hub caps.

The envelope was even nicer! At first I thought it was one of those computer generated letters to get you to open them. It was really nice.

Very nice of you David. Wasn't necessary but thanks. I appreciate it.

If it runs with fluid, I wouldn't be concerned about the tach. You said, "- The metal relay (EFI relay I believe?)behind the plastic cover next to the battery. This relay seems to work with cables diretcly from the battery, it's clicking. But not when It's back in the car, totally silent when cranking. " So the relay only clicks if you hardwire it out of the socket? Have you verified that when you simply turn the switch to the "on" position the relay clicks? You need to check if power is making it to the relay itself I guess is my question. With the key on, the relay should be on. No other noise should be heard while cranking, unless for some reason it is cutting off which could be from a bad key switch. I'm assuming it is because you have powers to your injectors. Also try with a volt meter connected to the injectors and voltage is seen, crank the car and see if the voltage remains. Also have you removed the connectors from the ECU and confirmed there is no corrosion on any of the connectors or ECU terminals?

Are you retired or work from home?

Sold.

It will buff out! Im assuming you stripped all the goodies.

So you know it will start on fluid and you know the injectors are firing now, I'd go back and ensure you have pressure. I'd suggest if you have another pump, put it at the front of the car directly to the fuel rail from a gas can and then run the return line back to the same gas can to simulate a tank. Eliminate the entire fuel system. Put alligator clips on the wires to the pump and hook to the battery directly. Have a fire extinguisher by for safety. Similar to this:

I'm assuming it still doesn't run. Why is the ignition lock out? Also have you tested the switch on the back of the lock to make sure that is good? Wondering if it staying closed even when key is off. You sure the key is really off? The security feature is just a pin that goes into the steering column when the key is removed and steering wheel is turned a certain way.

Spares, plural?!

Hmmm... Let's make Dave take us both! How about a Datsun trailer Dave? Find an old 520 and take the bed off the back and covert it.

So the date is set Dave? Now you need to tell the rest of the story.... 200lbs in tools and another 300lbs in spare parts in the back!

I like the other wheels better. GLWS!

I thought I read that the later Z's switched to both rights as the rest of America was doing.

Yes do this.(pickle fork) In fact I would put the ball joint back on the car snug the bolts and beat away. The preferred method that everyone but me seems to get away with is a few taps on the tie rod end and it pops off. Not me! I had one so stuck I ruined the fork! Granted it was a harbor freight model.

Buy an 81-83 280zx turbo rust bucket complete and swap drive train and electronics over. Keep you L24 in storage for ever going back to original. If it's not the original block and head do what you want with it.

Just saw this and thought of you: https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/d/1986-nissan-300zx-turbo/6379032344.html

Wow. That is crazy stuff. So even at $15K it was money well spent?