JSM

Thanks. I will not be running out and buying one! LOL.

^^^^ Looks great. I will be running the same setup soon myself. Good info.

225/50/15 is what I have on my pansports I believe. I just want my replacement center caps to come in! And you can never have two many .45!

Car came out great Jamal. What is that for?

If you feel underneath the throttle body the large cone shapped device is the BCDD. That is gone completely or or are the lines just capped and the wire removed. Funny, I've only seen the philips head in the TB as the adjusment screw. I recall seeing it as a flat head in the FSM though. Have you cleaned the connectors on the CTHS in the thermostat housing? Do the sensor, plug and bullet connectors. I grabbed some emery cloth from ACE hardware and nail files. Then Cleaned with electrical spray. Eventually your plugs are going to fowl, it will be hard to start and performance will suffer if it continues to run rich.

I might have posted in another thread of yours but what model/part# Borla did you go with?

After reading up on Fords Inertia switch, I will be using it in as a safeguard when installing Fuel injection in my 240z. Such a simple device.

This is from the EFI Bible. I may be similar to the 78, but I think this is for the 75. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Maybe. Do you need the car for daily transportation? If not, then I would start with the key switch checkout. If you do need it, I would try the starting from the engine bay, "bump start" with just the key at ACC. If that doesn't work then try running the fuel pump jumped.

Oh do this. Put the key to ACC, then start the car from the starter and see if it runs. Disconnect the wire from the solenoid on starter (small white one I believe) and then use a bump switch to start it from the engine bay. Bridge the wire you unplugged and the larger starter wire coming from the battery to a switch you hold in your hand.

Well, I would do the key switch first. Easier then crawling under the back of the car and may solve everything!

I would skip the gauge for now, but it would go after the fuel filter going into the rail. Just to ensure your getting proper fuel pressure to the engine. The gauge going empty is another problem. Thinking on this more have you changed the switch on the back of the key? I'm wondering if it is worn and shutting everything off once you apply start (bad contact inside.) If it is killing your gauge it may be killing other things needing to be on like your fuel pump! I think there is a check for that too in the FSM. I would check this first. Bypassing the fuel pump is simple way to see if the car would run with it running stand alone. Finding the wiring issue is second. At least to me it would be.

I think you have some kind of electrical gremlins going on. I would definitely start with fusible links first. Your fuel gauge going to empty is weird too. I would pop all your fuses and clean each end with steel wool and re-install as well. Otherwise start tracing through the schematic and check each component. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf This is my opinion, but skip that pool gauge. I went to my local Napa and for $20 they had an oil filled one that was pretty nice. I've also seen the smaller ones at autozone. I had the harbor freight kit and was running their gauge on car for awhile until it died, Junk. I would for kicks unhook the fuel pump wires from the car and see if it runs ok jumping it with a battery.

So when you say doesn't run, you know it's not getting fuel? If you spray ether into the TB boot will the car try and run? Just trying to confirm it is a fuel pump issue. You've checked to make sure your injectors are pulsing correct?

I might have another not as pretty. I'll have to look.

ECU only controls the FI. I might be crossing my ECUs up but I thought there was a trigger for the Fuel pump relay. I know the AFM does for sure.

So shipping is not an option? I'm assuming you've asked?

What does batch like that cost to get done?

If I recall the CPU triggers the fuel pump as well as the AFM. You'll likely have to install your own fuel pump relay either using the alternator as the trigger (ive heard yellow wire) or install an oil pressure trigger switch to trigger the relay. There was a write up not long ago. On here if I recall. I searched and can't find it. If I find the link I'll post it. This wasn't the link but shows the oil pressure switch I was referring to: It was very similar to this thread:

JLP sent you a PM.

I have not used this place, but someone who has, said they did nice work. He said it was better if you clean everything up first before you send or it cost more (grease and sand blasting). Penninsula Metal Finishing 407-291-1023 - Smitty is the owners name, Orlando, FL. Might be able to do better if you pay cash too. Also he said he thought it was best to do a hole bunch at one time. If you use them let me know how it turns out.

Odd they have nothing for the back: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130/full-front-coilover-conversion-280zx Can go this route too: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/

$110 shipping included. US only .

I just checked and nothing. Mine are the older style.