JSM

I do miss my 73. She was cut when I got her. Miss those HRE's too. Should have never sold them.

The reason most put fender flares on is to run wider and lower the cars. This is what you end up doing to really lower the car and fit big tires on the car. A lot of people won't cut up the car just bolt them to the side.

So if it won't start now, have you checked for spark and fuel? If a fuel pump fails, it could go slowly like your describing. Check the very basics first. Sorry to ask, but your gas gauge works and you do have fuel in the car? My wife called me one day after I had just replaced the battery and says it won't start. I get there and she has a business card over the gas gauge and the car was out. I was not happy!

Hopefully the prices will continue to go up!

Than you very much. I did have it downloaded. I saw it go to pin 26" and then Got lost in the schematic.

Ok as some of you know I'm trying to steal the 79 EFI to run on my 71. I've been staring at schematics for awhile, looking through the FSM Engine electrics and EFI sections of the FSM, but I can not figure out what the yellow wire from the body plug leading into the EFI relay does. The black and white and green wire are switched power. Assuming to run to the ECU and one to the Dropping resistors. I checked voltage to the yellow wire while the car is running and nothing. And nothing during cranking only and it's not going to ground. So I let it run and cut it while the car was running. No change. Turned the car off and back on no issues. The other thing I noticed, is the ECU has a large blue wire connected via a spade connector that also has switched power. This outside of the large ECU plug. What I noticed also pin 27 is a blue wire coming from the EFI relay (per page EF-22). So based on my testing the ECU has two sources of power coming to it, 1 from the spade and 1 from the EFI relay. What I would love to find is the sections that describe what the heck the body plugs do!! Here is a pic of the wire I cut going into the EFI relay.

Uh oh, in today's world hiring a hostess would have to include all minorities, and the entire LGBT and the like communities to be politically correct!

Three C's of programming: copy, clone, cheat!!!

Yes the 79 had the wire like the earlier Z cars. The 80 I put on was only vacuum actuated, no wire. One less thing to deal with honestly.

Yes I did unplug it. Made no difference. I could not discern if the selinoid was activating or not. Kinda hard with the engine running so fast.

Correct I'm trying to steal the EFI for my 71. Is there link for this (bearing cage)? My 80 only has 90K on it. The amount of rust is bit unbelievable. The 79 has at least 155k. Is there a mileage or time this usually goes out?

Success. I really believe it was a bad BCDD valve. I could actually see more light through my clean 80 TB then the carbonized 79. Also here is an example of a bad fusible link though it looks good:

I know, I know. I enjoy the learning if nothing else. I only eat celery w/ Peanut butter or ranch dressing! I was reading my directions last night for my weber 60mm TB. I can simply plug the hole for the BCDD on it!

Bump. $200 shipped. If this goes to the west coast for some reason that is at least $50 in shipping charges. Shipping has gotten so expensive.

If the 79 turns out to be bad I'm going to try and use the 80. Ideally, I'd like to leave the BCCD functioning and since it works internally I'm going to cap 4 of the 5 vacuum sources as I'm not going to be running any of it (except the Distributor ported vacuum) . My goal is to steal the 79 EFI and distributor and run it on my 71. Please no bashing. This is more of an exercise of: 1. Can I get the Parts car to run. Done 2. Can I get the EFI in the Car. From all of my reading thus far, I'm pretty sure I can. 3. I like carbs, but I like FI better. Plus it's such a simple system. 4. I have it why not. 5. I've been able to test a bunch of other parts that I've had for ZX cars. This is from the 80 Emissions section. Going to cap all the hoses but the blue circle:

Thanks. I was thinking as well. I'll give it a shot hopefully later today. My 79 has the wire, My 80 does not. If it does test bad, I do have an extra from the 80 I could try. I need to figure out if the wire is needed if I use the 80.

Sorry, not trying to come off like a know it all. I know your trying to help. Thank you. It's Bruce right? ^^^^ Yes, both actually. From what I've read, it seems most replace TB w/ BCDD in order to remove. I understand it's function just not sure simplest way to defeat in order to see if that is what my issue is. When siteunseen said unplug I wasn't sure if he was referencing the electric plug or vacuum lines I'm assuming if the diaphragm inside is torn unplugging will do nothing. I wasn't sure if plugging the rear vac line would. In the FSM the connection between the TB and the BCDD is internal.

Yeah it is. My 79 also has the wire to it. I have another TB looks like it is later as it has no wire. I might give that a shot. I also have one of the old Weber 60mm which I don't think has the BCDD on it. My goal was to get the car running perfect stock so when I go to remove all the stuff I don't want I know why. And I knew of the ported ported sources as well, but thanks for the reminder. I was curious how folks are "disabling and or removing". I think that is one reason why some folks are using the 240sx TB. Seeing that on HybridZ.

To remove the BCDD is simply plugging all the vac lines to it?

Cold start valve is off. Also the only linkage is on the throttle body and just the intake. Not connected to pedal at all. CHecked to make sure the TB was closing all the way too. Also took off dash pot too as I was thinking that also.

I have this parts car that i'm trying to get going, to verify some parts and stealing some others. It starts right up even cold. That was a project. When cold or warm, I can't get the idle down. I have the TB screw all the way in. Timing was advanced all the way, so I retarded it some. Can't find any vacuum leaks except one, two injectors I know are sucking some air. I swapped AFM no, change. Checked AIC and even manually plugged it just to be sure. Checked all my vacuum lines, brake booster, etc. I just can't believe two injectors could cause that high of an idle? If anything, I would think that would reduce idle. Thoughts. Could a stuck BCDD for some reason cause this? Reading on this I thought it was off under idle conditions.

It was nicely done. Now put your website in your signature!

Yes. One in the upper left and right corners of hatch and one in the bottom center. I have set. How does $20 shipped sound?

The corner 90 degree pieces?

Seems you got it running better which is great. I'm in the process of getting my 79 parts car running. I did all the injector plugs and both thermo-time plug and WTS plug. I used the volvo pigtails as I like the larger rubber boot. Protects all of my solder joints and to me looks nice. You can get these off of 90's 4 cyl. Easy to access, usually always in great shape and cheap!. First plug on left is what I used on the injectors and 2nd one in for the TTS and the WTS. I used emmory cloth on the inside of the bullet connectors. I was so shocked how bad they were.