JSM

Thank you!

I was going to order a new lens for my map light in the heater console since mine is missing. Does this piece just pop in place? My switch has the spring in it, so i'm assuming that is the spring they are referencing? I thought this is the rocker type push button map light. One side is fixed so to speak and the return of it to flat is done via the spring loaded switch? http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4424748

Yeah I know better. I was careful the entire time, saw it there, was cleaning it with electrical spray and then like an idiot, I took it and shook it hard while outside on my driveway covered in acorns and leaves and went, "oh no". Looked back and went, rats! I knew I would never find it. Thank goodness for spares!

This is the route I will be going. I'm not going to use the AC canister but the rest I will. There is a nice diagram too. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56983-heres-an-easy-to-make-surge-tank/

Maybe this has been posted before, not sure so I thought I would share. I recently picked up a second console with a defroster switch and choke plate that I needed for $75. I figured a spare console would be good anyway. When I got home I realized the switch was frozen. I put some lube in it, freed it up and cleaned it with electrical spray. Tested for continuity and nada. I recently rebuilt my headlight switch and wondered maybe this was similar. Sure enough it was. With a small screw driver, gently pry each side out and slowly lift it out. Be very careful not to lose the small plastic tip and spring. I did! I had to rob one from an extra defroster switch from my old 73 parts. You have to gently bend the side metal tab holding the metal rocker in place to get it out. Just bend one of the two sides. Clean it up and assemble. Gently squeeze the metal side back in to hold the rocker in place. When putting it back together, push it together flat and it snaps right into the housing. I tried at an angle first and it bound up. Now is a good time to check your bulb and clean it up as well. Before: Apart and cleaned up: Together (You can see the black plastic tip pushing against the rocker. Don't lose it.): Working:

To be safe it needs to be 5/87. I've seen 4/87 without them. When looking at 87 turbo parts cars always ask date of manufacture and to snap a pic of the diff cover. Has saved me quite a few trips!

^^^^ siteunseen, I don't think that is actually his car, but a sample photo chickenman posted to show the block breather location for reference. Good point though and a good check. I agree you need to check valve lash, but usually backfiring in the exhaust is un-burnt gas indicating a rich condition. Did you adjust both carbs 1/2 turn in to lean the car out at all? Continue at 1/2 turn until it stops? Also does it smell rich? Do you see a black smoke when you try and open it up at all? Do you have a standalone wideband AFR Gauge to check? I have an older Innovate LM1.

Ah thanks. Yeah I'll clean up the metal. The way you see it is how I got it!

Haven't got that far yet. Just got my correct console the other day. Now need the right shift boot. I'm hoping for the best.

Wow. Thanks. I didn't realize the shifters moved forward on the later Z's. Here is my cut hole with a ZX 5 speed. Maybe my car was not an auto after all. I could probably tell by VIN but not that concerned. Thanks for all the replies

Ah ok thanks that makes sense. This ebay link shows as a 71 which is the boot I currently have and won't fit to small: My tunnel hole has been enlarged and I should use this now correct:

I have an 8/71 Z. Looking to replace the inner shift boot (mine is missing completely). Learned there is a difference but from the pics I can't really tell what the difference is? That aside, I have a later 83 ZX 5 speed in my car. Do I even need the correct 71 boot? Plus I think my car was originally auto too.

Thanks guys. I got one locally. Scored a choke cable for $25 too!

Man I was about to call you liar, liar pants on fire. My 79 does not have it. It seems in 1980 is when they moved from Water Temp sensor to Cylinder Head temps sensor. Checked FSM to confirm. Love learning.

Wish I was closer! Somebody jump. http://augusta.craigslist.org/cto/5953197644.html May be gone already Posted 3 days ago.

Ok someone contacted me local who my have. I'll post back if it falls through.

Yes I saw that. That chunk above the shifter is a bit much. Is that yours?

Not looking for show quality, But decent. My car is an 8/71 if it makes a difference. I realized today that the console I have is from a 72. I think the official name is floor console.

Thanks guys. Funny I was messing with my horns and was like what are those. I'll tuck them back in for now. Appreciate the learning.

Did US cars come with fog light option? On my 71 I notice the hole above the flasher for it and by the horn wires the red and black wires look factory tapped still. I checked the owners manual and there is no mention of fog lights. I'm assuming I can source a fog light switch and the wiring provisions are in place?

Yep thanks. Temp gauge is working fine. I was trying to remember what the black wire was for.

Found a pic accidentally browsing another thread.

Pertty!!!

If you're not sure which ratio R200 you have lying around the garage, check it this way: Remove the rear plate (drain the oil of course). Then rotate the large ring gear until you see these numbers stamped into the edge facing you. If it's a 3.54 it will read "39:11" If it's a 3.70 it will read "37:10" If it's a 3.90 it will read "39:10" If it's a 4.11 it will read "37:9"

The other thing I noticed is if you take the fuse out, wipe each end with steal wool, lightly crimp each end of the fuse terminals and reinstall the fuse. This solved two of my issues. I'm running the old style fuses. I was scratching my head for hours trying to figure out what the heck was going on.