JSM

Dave I looked and looked, I can’t find either one.

I’m looking for an owners manual for my 6/71. I have a series one manual or a 72 I could trade for just in case you have the wrong one or in need of either of those years. At this point I just want to trade and not looking to sell these.

R200 rear ends, nuts and bolts. Not a lot. I may be interested in some 300zx parts. What do you have?

Reaction disk aside, are you sure you don’t have a hole in the booster diaphragm? Do you have any engine speed increase when you step on the pedal with it running?

As long as you coat everything with oil, have it well lubed up and turned over a few times by hand, with the plugs out and use the starter. I've even left the valve cover off to make sure it's coming out the top.

They do pop on eBay from time to time. Set up a search and Save it for notifications.

Please let me know if you decide to sell them. I'd likely take one too. I have the exact same battery. I'm using a block of wood.

Awesome!

Need more details, like Year of car, definition of what was replaced in engine rebuild. I woukd not be in a hurry to circumvent the stock harness if it was prior working. You’ll introduce more problems in my opinion. Did you go through this.

Your likely going to eventually fowl the plugs and not be able to likely get it started. In your warm climate you should be able to start the car on 1/4 choke, let it warm for a minute and push it back in closed.

Have space to store? Find out how much he wants for the whole thing! Strip all of it and tell him to you will bring him back the shell to get a better deal. If not, don’t forget the stub axles. You should be able to get $150 all day long on hybridz. Just don’t forget to remove the penning before removing the nut. The whole process can be a pitb at the JY. But saving parts, making a few bucks, helping others looking is all part of the fun to me.

Just an FYI 10 years is a long time for those injectors. I would also verify you can hear each one clicking. I had a 300ZX I just went through that was sitting for 2 years. None of the I jectors would fire. I had to clean them one by one and lube and apply voltage on and off until they freed.

http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5644516

That fixed it!

Are you talking about parts 63 and 64 on this diagram? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension Part 63: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bushing-front~55554-e4100.html Part 64: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bushing-rear~55555-e4100.html

And again. Report away. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123097957996

Thanks Dave that makes sense. Wow, thanks, I ordered 2. Shipping cost more than the 2 units!

So the car never had one, just plugged. I got one from oreilys for $12. Looks weird, not the original can type. Anyway, with it unplugged from the sending unit, no gauge movement, key on or running. With it plugged in it does a full sweep with just turned to on, then when running goes to zero. Is the sending unit just bad?

Yeah I think it is primer overspray. Or some weird funky shadow that looks like primer overspray!

Not a bash in any way, but when I see a pretty paint job without doing the engine bay, I immediately think "flipper". Not that there is anything wrong with that other than it may have been a hurry job hiding gremlins.

I They were using the 79-80 ZX match box style distributor. I think others have had issues with Rock Auto rebuilds. Who know who they are using.

I didn’t care for the 280z they did on the Goblin.

Crazy I know. I was like what they paid 9500 pounds for that. It must include shipping too.

Yeah I was watching. The exhaust seems really nice but that is quite off.

On now. Can’t figure out why they just didn’t buy new used fenders.