psdenno

It's probably going to be difficult to remove your patch by sanding without messing up the original texture on the console. Have you tried using a dental pick tool to dislodge the filler? Dennis

When I filled imperfections from the top side with epoxy putty, I pressed the putty into the cracks and holes and then brushed it down, before it dried, with an old toothbrush to remove any excess outside the imperfections. Brushing made a cleaner less noticeable patch and roughed the putty so there was no sheen. Dennis

Looks good as new! Next, the fun part, putting it all back together. Let us know how it goes. Dennis

Allow me to be the first to ask, "Got a picture or two?". New upholstery kit and 31K miles don't seem to mesh. What's the asking price? Any maintenance records? Have you checked the body panels with a magnet to detect body filler? Starts, idles, doesn't move? Transmission? Ask lots of questions. Dennis

Thanks. At the time I came up with that 35 years ago, I didn't have a very large budget for maintaining the Z. A low bank balance is often the mother of invention. Didn't think of painting them black - good idea! Dennis

Those pins are like socks in a clothes dryer - some just disappear forever. I replaced my missing ones with Cotter pins of appropriate size in places where they didn't show. The "eye" head of the small Cotter pin was easy to grab and pull out of the rivet on subsequent removals. Dennis

Thankfully, it's "the only one ever made". Dennis

Remove the console by removing the screws under the ashtray/cigarette lighter recepticle and in the coin try near the rear of the console. Disconnect the choke lever from underneath console or, since you're pulling the engine, leave it connected and pull the cables through the firewall as you remove the console. Disconnect the rear window defogger light under the console. Remove the lid of the fuse box when pulling the console out. Disconnect battery prior to doing anything if still connected. Bag and label all screws and hardware. I think that's about it. Once the console is out, remove rubber boot from center tunnel to access pin that holds shift lever in place on trans. Everything is relatively easy to get at from above. Replace shifter bushings when reinstalling. Dennis

A link to the REAL poomobile.... http://tinyurl.com/6wsbzoj Dennis

If you "Google" "power car radio antenna", you'll find a bunch starting at around $25 and up. The one you reference would probably be fine if originality isn't an issue and you don't mind the automatic feature. Dennis

Where did you insert the bolt!?!?!?!?! Dennis

They probably don't show an old Z because it's linked to the current production Z. It would muddy the NEW Datsun image waters. Dennis

Hadn't heard that before. I always wondered why the early steering wheels were solid with just depressions on the spokes and the later had cutouts. I'm always more worried about the steering column collapsing on my older cars during a front collision. Now I know not to brace myself on the steering wheel before impact. Dennis

I suppose you're right - 41 years is a long time to keep a car. However, I hesitate to add up the cost of gas, tires, annual license plate registration, insurance, and maintenance for all those years. Dennis

Let me know how it turns out. Many years ago i rebuilt the four wheel well openings that the previous owner had radiused with a saber saw on my Avanti. I used metal screen and strip aluminum to reform the missing areas and the shape of the wheel well opening of each fender and coated with fiberglass mat and cloth. A skim coat of Bondo finished the repair. Thirty five years later, it's still in place on all four fenders. Dennis

Both could be correct. It depends on the car, the owner, the maintenance, and the tolerance for issues that may arise. I've been driving mine for 41 years. Dennis

Perhaps, with fiberglass mat or cloth & resin. You could make a form/template out of wire or cardboard, cover with fiberglass, and bond in place of the missing section. Sandpaper and a file would shape to fit. Dennis

Don't get discouraged. Just think of it as a lifelong project and a place to store excess income. When you get the console stripped, check the inside surface for cracks and do your fiberglass mat or cloth repairs as in the referenced thread. It will turn out nicely for you. Dennis

Here's a link to what I did with mine... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34894-Refurbishing-the-Center-Console&highlight= Dennis

Appears to be a bit of body work to undo due to the wheel well flares - unless you like the look. The rear spoiler may also be an issue. From the 240Z emblem shown, looks like an early Z that should have flow through air vents in the rear hatch lid - can't see them in the photo. "working except for a bad carburetor" could mean many things, so tread lightly. This one looks like it may have had a hard life. Dennis

I wonder if a front bumper would have helped. Dennis

J.C. Whitney, longtime purveyor of fine aftermarket parts - Chicago, Illinois. Dennis

Continue to search. A better one is out there. Dennis

It appears that in addition to the physical qualities, the 1st one has no title (run don't walk). The 2nd one DOESN'T say "needs fuel lines" it says, "fuel tank needs to be lined". I'd probably avoid both and keep looking. What's your budget (how much to acquire and how much to put into repairs)? Dennis

Appears to have a significant amount of rust. It that cracked & bubbled Bondo on the rear hatch or just bubbled paint? Dennis