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psdenno

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Everything posted by psdenno

  1. I just did a Google (yes, I know you said "beside google") search for "Datsun 240Z parts" and got over 61,000 links. The first two, MSA and Black Dragon have good catalog options (on-line, on CD, and good old paper & ink) that can get you most of what you might need. I didn't take the time to check the other 60,998 links. I'll leave that to you. When you check the car in person and determine what you really need, a search (yes, I know you said "beside the search button") by key word on this forum will bring tons of information. That's part of the charm of belonging to a Z forum - a huge support group and almost endless info on key topics are just a click away. Trust me, have I lied to you, yet? I have a sense that you've already made up your mind about what to do. Keep us posted on the progress. Dennis
  2. I can see that you're already developed an emotional attachment to this Z. I think you should see the car in person, do a very close inspection for overall condition and rust, go back home, and price out parts and labor to get the car to the condition you want. Then, make an offer based on those costs. If you point out to the buyer what it will cost to revive, you'll have a strong bargaining point. Most of the metal that rusts on a Z is available in the aftermarket as "patch" panels. If you have access to a body shop, and know how to use it, that will lower repair costs. As it sits, I don't feel that it's a $4K car. Obviously it's been sitting for years, so you shouldn't have to worry about other potential buyers outbidding you. The old saying, "act in haste, repent at leisure" comes to mind. Dennis
  3. 432 Cubic Inches! I imagine that the Beach Boys are working on a sequel to "She's real fine my 409" - titled "I'll Make Do With My 432". Giddy up giddy up 432! Dennis
  4. Please excuse my generalization about cars from Florida. It's probably based on cars I've seen from the Keys and the Atlantic coastal area and not the Gulf Coast. Dennis
  5. Well said! I'll think I'll print your quote, laminate it, and carry it in my wallet as an antidote for my occasional instances of "Car Fever". It's a live and learn world. Dennis
  6. All things being equal - and they're not - I'd probably keep looking. It was in Florida humidity for years and is now in Wisconsin, land of salted roads, where cars go to return to nature. Other than spending the last 38 years on Okinawa, there are probably not more hostile rust causing environments for a Z than where it's been. The license plates look like they expired in 2006, so I wonder how roadworthy. As others have said, it all depends on how big a project you want to take on and how big your budget is. Anything can be rebuilt, as I know from owning my '71 since new. Dennis
  7. Sliding the fuse box through that small console opening can cause a few exciting sparks if the battery is still connected - don't ask me how I know :stupid: Dennis
  8. I'm not sure how my $1.98 "plastic lawn furniture" paint will hold up, but with a couple coats it had a very acceptable finish. Thanks for the "Wow!!!".
  9. Totally smooth as if it had been pressed on in one stroke with a paint pad. I used a sharp point, not the wedge point, Sharpie and held it horizontal to the ridge being highlighted. Then it was just a matter of lightly dragging the side of the point along the ridge. I paint model cars about as well as a five year old, so I didn't want to use a color source that could run, drip, or leave brush marks. I think the Sharpie cost about $2.50 at the local craft store. I'm sure they are also available at places like Staples, Office Max, or Walmart. Dennis
  10. It turned out to be easier than I anticipated. Using the Sharpie for the silver trim works best if you do the inner boxes around the choke handle first and the raised outer edge of the entire panel last. Dennis
  11. I recently pulled the shift lever on my '71 240Z to replace bushings. While the console was out, I decided to clean it up and repair stress cracks and 38 years of abuse. I got a new vinyl shift boot from MSA and reupholstered the hinged arm rest that I had installed in about 1972. I fiberglassed the underside of the console below stress cracks that were visible on the top side. Next, I filled the surface cracks with two part epoxy putty. I brushed away excess putty with a tooth brush so it wouldn't fill the grained surface. I tried a couple brands of paint before finding one that had the correct satin finish - $1.98 at True Value Hardware. The $8 a can name brand I tried first just wasn't right. Finally, I scrubbed the panel that holds the rear window defogger switch and surrounds the choke cable handle. The silver edging on the panel was long gone and I knew I'd have a difficult time trying to paint it. Instead of paint, I used a silver Sharpie pen. By dragging the edge of the pen along the raised areas of the panel, the silver highlight was easily restored. Pictures can be seen at : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=177 Dennis
  12. "How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" is a good start. The Haynes manual for the 240Z is also a good book to have near by as you start your project. Keep us updated! Dennis
  13. Did we rule out the steering rack bushings? Dennis
  14. As was mentioned, it depends on what you start with. I bought my Z new in 1971, drove it for about 12 years as primary transportation, let it become a seldom used car, and finally stored it for 15 years. When I brought it out of storage, I poured about twice what it cost new into making it roadworthy, and have driven it for only the price of gas for the last two years. Could I/Will I spend more? Certainly. But, for now, it offers great driving pleasure at far less expense than the late model family Audi. Dennis
  15. I had a similar surprise with the floor of my '71. A couple years ago, when I was bringing it back to life after a 15 year snooze, my mechanic had it up on a lift and pointed out the huge dent under the passenger seat. Seems that at some point since 1971 a jerk with a floor jack had decided the floor pan was a lift point. I let it go and consider it to be patina. Dennis
  16. Looks like quite a project! It can only get better from where you're at with it now. Keep us posted. Dennis
  17. If it makes you feel any better, the dealership in Rancho Mirage, CA that services my Audi charges $135 an hour. Six miles from there my 240Z mechanic charges $65 an hour. Shop around. There are good mechanics at reasonable prices. Do it yourself - learn a skill and celebrate by buying beer for your friends with the $100 you save. A Win/Win situation. Dennis
  18. Works for me. One black face & one in white. Nice job! Dennis
  19. psdenno posted a topic in Interior
    I've searched the archive, but haven't found an answer. I'd like to hear from anyone who has put BMW 318 or 325 seats in an early Z. Do you need to mount them lower than the stock seats mounts or just fab a simple mounting bracket on the stock floor mounts? First hand experience appreciated. Thanks, Dennis
  20. Nice clean look! Dennis
  21. Ford Explorer Sport Trac or Audi A6. Dennis
  22. Let's all chip in a couple bucks a piece and donate it to a museum. That would keep it off ebay for a while. Dennis
  23. Timely post - I just renewed my policy with American Collector's Insurance this morning. 1971 240Z, $11,500 value, $0 deductible, includes coverage for $500 spare parts and $25 basic towing: Annual Premium - $77.16 For comparison with my other cars on the policy... Same coverage for 1963 Studebaker Avanti valued $18,000: $120.32 Same coverage for 1970 Porsche valued $31,500: $173.96 There is an annual mileage limitation of 2,500 on each car, which is not a problem for me - but may be for some. Dennis
  24. My owner's manual is currently in a tool chest drawer in my garage since my glovebox crumbled. (Note to self: Order reproduction glovebox) Factory shop manuals and Haynes manual are on a shelf in my home office. Dennis
  25. You're going to get a bunch of opinions on this one, so let me be among the first. I ran AC on my '71 Z for decades with no aux fan. I did have a bigger than stock radiator, however, and a flex blade clutchless fan blade in place of the stock unit. I had no problems. When I switched out the original ARA unit last year, I installed a Hayden 3670 electric fan that comes on when the AC is on (about $100). I got rid of the flex fan and installed a stock plastic fan & clutch. Works well in 110 degree heat here in the desert. There are various other solutions, including junk yard fans from other makes. Dennis

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