psdenno

OK, forest fires. Dennis

Only concerns are termites and dry rot. Nice looking fun car, otherwise. Dennis

Maybe it's time to think about converting to the early style Z bumper which, although pricey, is readily available in chrome or stainless steel. I realize there's a budget involved. But is sounds like a viable option unless someone finds a correct well used one at a pick-a-part. Dennis

Although the hubcap seller has a very good positive rating on ebay, when you look at the individual positive rating scores they're based on ratings from people he bought from, not sold to. Very few sales, many many purchases. I wonder what he's going to do with a warehouse full of poorly reproduced early Datsun hubcaps now that the word is out. Dennis

In all the years, did.the Z ever run smoothly and with adequate power? Not sure if that was ever mentioned or if it's had this problem the whole time since it got off the boat.

Give me a few minutes and I can type up an even better build sheet. Unfortunately, it may not accurately reflect the actual engine. If you go to the California Datsun web site, he still mentions that his engines are done by an engine builder in Riverside, CA - just like on the flyer. There's a warehouse along the 60 Freeway that has advertised rebuilt Japanese engines for many years - it may be the supplier. I think the big thing is the reputation of the seller and California Datsun has a poor one. Include me on the list of those who suspect issues other than the carbs may be contributing to the poor performance. Dennis

My first clue that everything was accomplished with a high level of precision and perfection was that there are TWO #10 entries on the "Rebuild Process" list. Dennis

Sound advice. But, like so much sound advice that's been offered to solve the Panamanian Zs problems over the last several years, my guess is that it will NOT be heeded. And that's a shame. The carb float problem has been diagnosed to death and the advice has been pretty much ignored. I'll be interested to see how much longer people will be willing to help. Dennis

I've run Carter and inexpensive Facet pumps on my Z for 40 years. Both have worked well until "end of life" necessitates replacement. Even the stock mechanical pump was adequate until I chose to go electric for no particular reason other than the newer Zs had electric pumps. Dennis

Interesting that someone would go the effort and expense of stamping out the "close to original" hubcaps and then screw up the paint. It would be like forging a blonde haired version of daVinci's Mona Lisa painting and hoping no one would notice. Dennis

If you have doubts about fuel flow to your carbs, do a capacity check using the figures I provided you in one of your other carb threads earlier this week.. You've already done a pressure check according to earlier posts. Those are two quick ways to eliminate worries about pump based carb starvation. Let me know what results you get after running the tests. Dennis

Typo: "U s e s o m e f o r m o f c o m p r e s s e d a r e a t o b l o w" Nice informative "How To" with pictures. Dennis

As much as I've enjoyed watching this journey for the last few years, I think there are a few buggered up issues to sort out and it might be a good idea to start fresh by checking all possible causes of the exhibited symptoms before making any more carb adjustments. Below are the troubleshooting steps from the factory manual. Each item should be checked before moving on to carb adjustment. According to the manual, fuel pressure can be in the range of 3.41 to 4.27 psi. More, or less, will cause less than optimal operation. Fuel capacity is another issue. Delivery should be 1600 cc (3 3/8 quarts) per minute (static test). At this point, I'm leaning toward "operator error" rather than "mechanical failure". In 47 years I haven't had that much of a problem with fuel delivery or carb adjustment with mine just following the factory manual and using a uni-syn and a Colortune. Good luck! Dennis

Baiting? Of the three of us, I believe I've LIVED USA car culture the most. So, I win.

Not for me. This like other forums can be viewed by anyone, info has to be correct, otherwise..... No problem with the history, info, and pictures presented. It's the bickering, name dropping, and "I know more about Japan than you do..." that was getting a little too ugly to read. No worries as it seems to be back on track. Dennis

Has this topic turned into a "Mine is bigger than yours." contest? I'm bored. Dennis

Just curious.....did you check fuel bowl level with the clear tube method mentioned in earlier posts? Not sure why the need for new floats and valves if you haven't. Dennis

Congrats on the fix! A working clock is still on my getting longer every day "To Do" list. Dennis

Of course you're welcome. Just heed his warning that "Here be Monsters" and be sure to always check under the bed and keep your lights on at night. Thin skinned be warned! Dennis

I now have the Konig Rewinds, also. Nice upgrade in size & looks. My hubcaps are on a shelf in the garage. Dennis

'72-'76 sounds about right for the 2nd style Z hubcaps. They should be easier to find and less expensive than the "up through" "71 style. Back when my '71 Z was almost new and I was young & foolish, I didn't like the look of the hubcaps and traded them to someone for the hubcaps on their '73 that they didn't like. I still have the full set of '73 hubcaps, but now that I'm old & foolish I wish I had the set that came on my '71. Lots of single '72-'76 hubcaps, as well as full sets of four, on ebay currently. Prices range from $9.95 for a single to $500 for a set of four. Dennis

What do I do with them? I use them to attract dust. Lots of dust. So far, so good. Dennis

Have you verified the bore & stroke as well as the upgrade parts listed on the rebuild spec sheet you included in your 1st post or are you tuning based on what you think the engine internals are? Just curious as I know of a few engines that have been passed off as "rebuilt" with just new paint on the block. Dennis

Right! Dennis

I wonder where they redline?