psdenno

Excuse me for not understanding, but how are you making these formed, cloth covered, hoses? Did I miss something in a previous post or other thread? Dennis

Welcome to the group - nice low serial number. Remember, rust is just nature's way of saying, "Slow Down". All can be fixed. Keep us posted on your progress. Dennis

A human Slinky! Dennis

My solution has always been to just set the idle RPM a couple hundred higher. This worked with both the old York compressor as well as the current rotary unit. Not very high tech, but solves the problem nicely. There's probably some rational reason I shouldn't do that, but it's worked well for 37 years. Dennis

Add me to the "Spook Lover" list - clean, simple, functional. Mine served me well for over 35 years. Now, I'm working on adding chrome rimmed headlight covers to replace the non-sealed rimless ones that were installed for decades - another front look I like and have wanted since '71. Some changes just seem to take a little longer than others. Dennis

Thanks for the link - it is cool! Dennis

It's fun to be "value" conscious and dream about the high prices of certain Zs listed for sale. However, for the most part, the the only people making money on Zs are the ones selling parts or turning wrenches in an established shop. Consider your Z to be an investment that adds to your driving pleasure, story telling, and self image. Don't think of it as part of your retirement portfolio as they tend to not keep up with the inflation rate. Dennis

I've had good luck using dental floss or fine string. Fishing line would probably work, too. Just go slow, a little at a time, working from both ends and then by "threading" the string through top to bottom under the slightly raised emblem, closer to the middle and pulling "out" between the pegs. It's generally been easier than it sounds. Dennis

Getting back to the post that started this thread...... Parts are expensive only if you think they are. As my wife the psychologist taught me long ago, we each live in our own reality. Remembering that has saved me a great deal of anguish when dealing with others. :0) Dennis

I had a set of semi-permanantly installed metal louvers on my Z for decades - secured to the hatch by metal channels that slid under the glass seal on each side and a center strip that attached to the glass with double sided tape. I don't like the bolt on type that requires drilling holes in the Z. As part of my on-goning refurb, they are now off and a new set of the metal MSA louvers await in the garage. I watched ebay for good deals for a year or more and shipping cost was generally the deal breaker. I stop by MSA several times a year and recently picked up my set, so no shipping cost. Dennis

Assume it's 138K, or even 238K, and then start looking at the physical wear signs which are: Wear on the pedal pads Upholstery (original?) windshield (original glass?), chips sand blast shift knob Ask for maintenance records original headlights or later US replacements original carpet & pad or replacement wear on the steering wheel - or replaced? These are just a few of the easy ones. There are more under the hood if you look for grime build up on the engine and replaced parts that shouldn't have gone bad in 38K miles. Good luck, always assume the worst and hope for the best when buying a used car. Dennis

I'll be 62 next month and first saw a Z in early November 1971 while walking through the Ginza in Tokyo while on my way back to the States after a year and a half stay in the Philippines. I had sold my '69 Pontiac Gran Prix in the Philippines before leaving and intended to buy a Volvo 1800 when I got home. Seeing the Z in an elevated display window changed all that. I can clearly remember the sounds, the smells, and the temperature at the moment I spotted that car - an amazing visual and emotional impact. Before the end of the month, I had returned home, found a nice new '71 240Z, and bought it - at way too much over sticker. I liked that Z so much that I still have it. For almost 20 of the 38 years that I've owned it, it sat, unused, sometimes in the driveway and mostly in a rented storage building. A couple years ago, I took it out of storage and began a refurbish project that, so far, has only cost a couple thousand dollars more than it cost when new. It sits in the driveway, takes me for a ride once in a while, and doesn't make too many demands. Our 38 year relationship remains solid. My 16 year old son recently got his license and is learning the fine points of driving a "stick" thanks to the Z. The torch is passed. Dennis

Since the carb insulator gasket from an Austin Healey is a direct replacement for the gaskets on a Z, is there also a AH insulator block that would work? Dennis

The door seals on my '71 had hardened and crumbled. I replaced them with seals from MSA. A very easy install. The doors were initially hard to close with the new seals, but in a few days began to close nicely. I should mention that I did the seals in the summer and left the Z in the sun. Based on my experience, hot weather works best in helping the seals conform. Dennis

I have the same set-up as sblake01 on my '71 Z with AC and have no problems in 110 degree summer driving in Palm Springs. You probably won't be driving in weather too much warmer than that. Dennis

Don't know about the 280ZX, but Letterman used to drive a quite slick Porsche 914-6. Dennis

Mally002 - if you need your Z information entered on a copy of the sticker shown in Arne's message #3 (not trying to step on anyone's toes who may be willing to crank these out - I'll gladly bow out if someone is already geared up for this) and other sources don't work out, shoot me an email. I did mine yesterday and everything is already set up to do more if needed. The sticker shown in message #3 is the ONLY one I'm prepared to do. Dennis

I just used Arne's sticker "shell" and the font Lucida Sans Typewriter to make quite a close replica sticker. I had to adjust the page size in PhotoShop just a bit. Dennis

Arne, I see your Z entered the US through Portland. Anyone know where other ports of entry were? I bought mine in Minneapolis.

I hadn't heard of plastic welding until I read your post. A quick Google search brought up a wealth on information - especially at: http://forum.doityourself.com/welding-metalworking/164855-plastic-welding.html I'll be interested in reading what forum members have experienced. The HF tool seem cheap enough to experiment with a bit. Dennis

Certainly, metal replacement panels would be the best way to go. However, fiberglass and a little filler can do wonders and last for years. It all depends on your skills, budget, local climate, and plans for the Z. Here in the desert, a good fiberglass patch can last for a decade or longer. I'm guessing you get a little more rain and humidity that I do. Dennis

Pass on this one unless you're willing to undo questionable bodywork (and the surprises underneath) and track down some slightly pricey parts - like both bumpers and mounting hardware, rear panels and tail lights. Dennis

How long do you think the previous fiberglass repair lasted? It's kind of discouraging to start knocking out rust and then realize that the paint was the only thing holding the fender together. I've been there. Dennis

Welcome to the group! Tell us more, maybe we can help. Dennis

In addition to all of those handling improvements, mine made a fairly good unintentional snow plow from time to time when I was living in Topeka in the early 70s. It only broke once when I hit a huge drift one dark and stormy night. Dennis