psdenno

If the studs break or pull out of the headlight bucket, you can replace them with metric machine screws from the hardware store. Just file the round screw head flat on two sides so the new stud looks like a golf club putter and epoxy the head end into the hole in the bucket. Easier than it sounds.

To address the aircraft radome paint questions: It's transmissive It doesn't reflect radar. Even with the Spook, my front end would get a little light at 601. The paint is actually quite durable with rocks & birds, but not curbs. You can get it at your friendly neighborhood Air Force Base. Just tell the guy with the gun at the gate that Denno sent you - and slip him $5.

I have aircraft radar nose cone paint on mine - a benny of my days in the AF. Flat black and durable - can take winds up to 600 MPH.

You can get a long cable lock that goes through the two grommets and under the car - not too difficult to install & remove. Keeps the cover on in the wind.

OK, cusiosity got the best of me. I checked my original BRE Spook to see how many fasteners. I bought my 4/71 240Z new in November of 1971 and installed the Spook in the Spring of '72 by carefully following the included instructions. I took it off in April of this year after the "Z" was pulled from a 15 year "nap" for refreshing. It was held on with 9 bolts & large washers. Two bolts went into each turn signal nacel and five went through the center of the front valance in two rows (three bolts near the trailing edge and two forward near where the spoiler bends down away from the valance). Here's what's odd. In the row of three, the center hole is an inch off-center toward the driver's side and the end holes are exactly 18" apart with the driver's side hole being 8" from the off-center hole and the passenger side hole being 10" from the off-center hole. The forward row of two holes are 9" apart and centered. I can't believe I was so exact in my measurements, yet the center hole was exactly an inch off center. I know I went by the instructions and probably still have them somewhere. Was there a factory drain hole in the front valance that was used as the 1st off-center mounting hole? I can't tell by looking at the original parts, but the off-center hole in the Spook looks cleanly drilled and perfectly round, unlike the rest of the holes that I probably drilled at the time. I seem to remember that there was a pilot hole to use and then work out from there for the rest of the mounting holes - but that was 35 years ago and my memory storage has been full for quite some time. It i s, however, an original BRE Spook and I installed it in my driveway all by myself. Those were the Good Old Days! Dennis 1971 240Z Original Owner

Shortly after I bought my Z in 1971, I added the BRE spoiler for stability. The first winter in Kansas, I learned what a great snow plow blade it made - not intentionally. Still have it and the Z and when I recently took it o ff, the valance was in good shape in spite of the beating the spoiler has taken over the years. Use good sized washers for best support. Dennis 4/71 Original Owner

Hey, I own a Porsche - thanks for the link! Dennis 71 240Z Original Owner 70 Porsche 914-6 63 Studebaker Avanti 66 Mustang GT 2+2

My wife said she "double parked" and now she can't find the "Z". OR I seem to have a little more rust than usual on the underside of my Z. OR A "Z" drove into a doctor's office and said to the doc, "How can I get this wart off my butt?"

Sometimess, there's a fine line between "Fully Restored" and "Mostly Refurbed". Looks like he texture coated the front suspension & steering pieces. And, who knows, an aftermarket shift knob may be viewed as a plus on a "restoration" by some ebay buyers. Dennis '71 Z, Original Owner

Don't forget to compare prices between OEM and aftermarket seals. It all comes down to what your goal is - functionality or originality - and your bank account balance. Aftermarket seals worked nicely on my '71 and will keep out the elements as well as the pricier OEM pieces. Dennis 1971 240Z, Original Owner

Make sure the welting part of the seal is pressed directly on the metal flange around the door opening with all of the old welting channel goop removed. Tap it onto the flange so that it's totally seated. A day in the sun with the doors closed tightly will help the seals conform.

I installed the Precission one piece door seals on my '71 last weekend, and they are slick. The doors were initially difficult to close, but once closed and left for a day in the 105 degree desert heat, they compressed and fit like new allowing the doors to close easily. If you use the one piece, be sure to clean everything off under the original welting down to metal for the best fit.

Thanks for the input guys - my mechanic has made the line switch and mounted the new wheels & tires. A few more things to check and I'll be on the road next week. Getting the Z roadworthy after 15 years in storage has now cost just a bit more than I paid for it NEW in 1971. Oh well.

I searched the message archive and think I know the answer, but need validation before I talk to my mechanic tomorrow. My Z has a 4/71 build date. I bought it NEW, however it's been sitting for years and I had all the brakes replaced - including the M/C. My mechanic used a later M/C. I've read that the reservoirs are switched on late '71 M/Cs and the lines to front & rear brakes need to be rerouted if going from an early to late M/C. Is that correct? Input appreciated.