New-to-240z

I have been looking fro that page for soo long!! Will, you are the man!!! BTY, I am still going to get those harnesses from you, I've just been really low on the $$$ lately with saving up for my swap.

I'll post results on sunday afternoon. I'm going out for cinco de mayo so i won't be very . . . . uhh . . . cohearant (sp) hahaha Thanx for all the feedback guys. To whoever cares . . When i changed out the steering rack (to poly), the tie rod ends (new stock), LCA bushing (poly), and ball joints (new stock of course), and sway bar end links and bushings (poly), and TC rods (poly); the road feel has improved GREATLY!!! I will say that i drive on some pretty bad roads and sometimes it pisses me off becuz of how much the steering wheels shakes. BUT, when i'm on that smooth road going 70 . . . . she's right where she belongs. Next will be the spindle pin replacement, then the rear LCA bushings (to poly), Mustash bar ( to poly), and diff mount (all aluminum or stock; haven't made up my mind). All done at the same time since I'll have it all out. I will report back on the final product. (PS i still have stock springs and just stock replacement shocks. So this will be a good way of reviewing the differance in poly to rubber bushings.)

well, hopefully with some WD-40 and some elbow grease i can put the bolts back through the coupler with no trouble. If so i might just do what you were saying by unbolting the rod from the rack and pull it down to work with. what r the Tq specs for the bolts on the coupler? and for the rod bolts by the rack? Just incase, since i STILL don't ahve the FSM yet.

so your telling me i have to unbolt my steering rack AGAIN in order to put on the steering coupler? Please say it ain't so!! What if i put some soapy water on the old coupler and then some on the new coupler to squeez it out and back in? Only reason i ask is because it was a pain in the arse to put on the steering rack bushings. Splease, let me know what i should do. I'll be tackling this sunday night. Did heating some water and putting the bushings in there help you with the steering rack? Or was i just making it to hard on myself? hgaha (Also, did you notice a big difference in vibration with the poly coupler compared to the rubber?)

Bob, i live in that neighborhood! HAHAHA, i live RIGHT UP THE STREET! How much of a small world is this! Well, i sent you a PM with my #, and when you can reach me. Its good to see that you actually already had a look at the car and say its in good shape. I'm going to be tearing out all the undercoating and so forth and doing the whole POR-15 and could use some words of wisdom. U have no idea how great it feels to know i have someone who works on these things in stone throw distance! By the way, BEAUTIFUL Z!

well, i have someone that is looking to sell me his 72 Su's for like 150, and then you're saying it will cost me around 50 per SU to rebuild them? Just wondering, cause I'm thinking about how long i'll have the engine for and if it will be worth it to switch over.

Well, how much does it cost to get the SU's for this baby, and what year should i go with? I have a guy that can sell me a set of 72 SU's in ok condition. i met him at the MSA shop. But, what is the rebuild kit cost and how much work does it take? Do I need any special tools to do the rebuild? I am totally ok with spending time rebuilding the SU's but i njeed to know the cost factor. And if its even worth the money. U guys honestly help out soo much, you should get a medal!!!

can u guys point me in the right direction to adjusting the idle oin my 73 z with flat tops? My car drops to 500 rpms almost everytime when i come to a light and it sounds like its going to die!! Its and A/T, but i would think it would be the same procedure. Anyways, let me know.

I just started noticing this same problem. Today i was at the Z show @ Little Oak canyon and after letting it sit out in the sun for about 1 hour (after driving for about 20 min) the car wouldn't start up at all!!!I opened the hood and let it sit for about 15 min. Some really nice guys in a grey 240z saw i was having trouble and helped me out. I had to literally push the gas pedal all the way down to the floor and start her up. after about 5 turns she started up, but if i were to just let her sit with my foot off the gas she would drop to 500 rpms start to stutter bad and then die. I had to keep putting her into nutral at every stop light to make sure it wouldn't die on me. (she's an A/T) Anyone have any clues? I'm gonig to replace the fuel filter and fule line from the top of the fuel filter tomorrow. Hopefully that solves the problem. I think my carbs arejust really poorly tuned. Also, the heat shield you guys are talking about, is it in the engine bay, or under the car? Because i have no heat shields at all in the engine bay. Only under the front of the car, and that i believe is for keeping rocks and stuff from hitting things inside the engine bay.

jsut tqing down stock rims on a 1973 240z. I tqed them down to 75 or 80 lb-ft. So i think i'm safe. but when i get home, I'll set them to 70 each. Just to make sure.

OK, don't laugh please don't laugh. I have done searching and come up with a few different numbers. TORQUE VALUE CHART 7/16" dia. 50 to 60 lb-ft 12mm dia. 70 to 80 lb-ft 1/2" dia. 80 to 90 lb-ft 5/8" dia. 110 to 125 lb-ft But, i did tons of searching on google, and came up with no specs for our studs. I did come up with 12mm but it doesn't seem like 70-80 lb-ft is tight enough? Someone please help me out with this , as i haven't had the chance to purchase a haynes or chilton manual yet for her. I have them at 90 right now. Let me know if i should ease off on her.

Are you saying to pull the white/red white out and the red/blue wire out and then tire them together and turn the car to ON? I'm a little iffy about electric stuff, always afraid of FUBAR-ing things up . . . hahaha.

its all good man. Maybe next time before i head out to SD i'll let you know and we can meet up at the K-Kart racing track or something. (I think its the Dromo-1 track actually.) Later

Well, after talking to a few guys and heading down to MSA, I found that boiling some water, letting it settle then dropping in the bushings for about 5 min make all the difference in the world!!!! From what i gather, because poly is made at such high temps it can handle the heat from the water and it makes it very pliable, and then after about 10 min it returns to it original state. So, that helped me squeeze them in there and get those lips over the tops. Anyway, I was still wondering if i can just unbolt the steering coupler and swap them out with the poly? Or is it more indepth then just that?

U going to be at the shop? I am getting off of work around 7pm and will be home at 7:30. If ur in the area, i'm only 10 min away from the shop. Maybe we can tackle this problem together. 2 minds together are better then 1 alone. haha I'm hoping a little poly grease and some tweaking will set them in place and make it work.

trieed that and it STILL doesn't go on correctly. I think when i pull the tie rods it should give me a little more play in setting it up. I'm hoping at least. I'm going to be tackling it in like 2 hours, will post results. Hopefully MSA will be helpful if this doesn't fit right.

will be checking that out tonight or soon. I am wokring on the steering rack bushing and having a @#$%@#$% hard time! will report back as soon as i get a chacne to look.

I've done some reading up on the boards, and it seems like the MSA haven't had too many problems. I'm going to put on some grease i had from my last poly upgrade on my 240sx and hopefully that will solve the problem. If not then I'll live with the stock ones until i swap out my engine. Another question . . Can I replace the steering coupler by just unbolting the 4 bolts and then sliding the coupler out and the new coupler in?

Hey guys, i just bought a set of MSA poly. bushings for my 73 steering rack. I had no trouble getting the old ones out, but now its almost impossible for me to get the new ones in!! they are cut just like the old ones, and when i put them on, they have this HUGE gap between the two ends that should meet!! I'm having a FIT trying to do this job. Does anyone have any ideas as to what i can do? Do i have to have the LCA's off in order to do this? (I got the poly's on so i wouldn't think so.) I am honesly going to just throw these things out and put the old POS's back in! Has anyone tried using these?

HAHAHAHA, will do. And I'll be repalcing with 20W or 3-in-1. Which i can find quicker.

i don't know if this means anything, but when i took off my intake cover and looked at the filter, i could smell gas and see that the filter was almost completely plauged with gas. It wasn't pooling any gas, but i could see white parts where gas hadn't been and darkened parts where gas HAD been!

Now, by oil do you mean literally just regualr oil like the 10W-40 i put in the engine? Or are you talking about using that white lube? Just want to make sure, so i put the right stuff on rather then making it worse.

they are the flat tops. FOR SURE. Thanx for the pic too. That helped I was wondering how to replace the fluid in the dampner itself. I just took that black cap off and filled it up. How can i empty it out and re-fill with 20w or 3-in-1? Also, I will be buying some white lube tomorrow and will be lubing up all the socket joints, and anything i can find that moves on the throttle.

yea the pedal comes back up but when i press down i don't feel any resistance till i hit where i left the pedal when i let go. hope that makes sense. HAHA By the way, I have a completely stock 5/73 240z. So, i think i have the flat tops?

what do u mean by that? is do I just unbolt them from the carb and nothing will spill out?