New-to-240z

Do you know what Amp they were? Where they 30, 20, 15? thanx ahead of time Ramses. By the way, GREAT 73

the people on this board never cease to amaze me. My prayers go out for you and ur dog. I hope there is something we can all do to help you out. Distance is what may seperate us, but hope is what pulls us close.

in line holder? Please excuse my stupidity but what do you mean? Where can this fuse be found on my 73'? Is it near the blower itself? What amp is the fuse? by the way, thanx for all the other help in my other threads Escanlon. U honestly help out a lot of people on here! I tip my hat to you sir.

may i ask how you fixed the cracks in the top? I have been wanting to do this VERY same thing to my dash, but couldn't figure out what to do. Any help would be great!

Well, checked the oil and when i tried filling it up iut was already filled. Was wondering though, it looked REALLY red in there. I think the PO might have put ATF. What's an easy way to empty out the fluid so i can replace with 20W? I think this is what's causing my problem.

so, if i'm looking at the carbs from above, they have a little black screw on top, do i unscrew this and then add oil? ( I use 10W-40 in my car, any diff? Should i jsut use 10W-30 to be sure in the dampers?) Thanx again for the help.(and quick replys)

Well, another problem is happening. I can't get the blower to work for me. I replaced every fuse in the fuse box behind the center dash with new fuses, all correct. But, it just won't work. I was hoping someone here might have some ideas of where to start to figure this out. The AC comp is still on the car, and the heater seems to have been replaced. So, any ideas?

well, is there by chance any explanation as to what the corre3ct amount of oil should be? What oil do i use if it IS low? Sorry for all the Q's, just trying to figure this out as much as i can.

yea, i'm going to try and make it to the show. I am for a fact going to the breakfast on Sat morning at like 9am, and the moonlight sale on Friday at 6 or 7. The only problem is I work weekends, and i won't have any time to actually goto the show!!!! I'm pretty pissed i couldn't get the days off of work. Also, about the damper coil . . what exactly is this? where can i find it on the engine? I was looking into the engine today and notice something. If looking down between the two carbs i see a long screw with a spring from top to bottom on both carbs, that is pushed by the throttle linkage. Could these be the problem? I'll post pics later tonight. I want this thing running good. (The idle right now is really off!! I'll be driving and then come to a stop and the idle will be around 500 rpms and then it seems like the car just wants to die out so i put it into N (A/T) and rev her a little and then back into drive once the light turns green. Any way to quickly fix that?)

Me likey, me WANT! Count me in on one too

I literally don't know NETHING about carb setups. It doesn seem like something is getting stuck or maybe even the chock is messed up. I don't know. They were rebuilt by a place called Olive's garage in ornage,CA and the mechanic worked on Z's all the time. Unfortunatly when i went down there, i found out he had left to arizona indefinitally only 1 month ago!!!!!!! I was pretty pissed. Anyway, i'll try to find the thread that i was reading, that stated they took like 1-3 coils off the springs and it fixed the problem of having to tap the gas pedal to get it to return fine. The reason i think it is more then just the coil is because the car goes through gas FAST and i don't even press down on the gas at all. Also, if on the freeway and then i gas it to pass someone, i can see black smoke shoot out the tailpipe quickly. And the car REAKS of gas after driving it a while. I'll take pictures tonight of the carbs and maybe you guys can tell me where in the pic should i check for give or losseness, or what have you. If no-one out here can help my only choice is to take help anywhere i can get it! haha Thanx for everything u guys. Will post pics in about 3 hours.

I know of a few guys closer to me that work on Z's, the only problem is they charge me money. I'm looking for someone that can spare a little time and show me a few tricks. I know its asking a lot, but I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm just hoping someone has time day or night to show me a few things and help me with just setting the fuel mixture and idle. That's it. But, thanx for the help blake, if i had money trust me i would be having someone work on it right now.

Hey guys, haven't posted in this part of the forums yet, but i have to now!! When driving on the freeway, i'll be speeding up to 70, and then when i pull my foot a little back on the gas, the car stays at the last position i was at. ( basically feels like the thottle gets stuck). But, if I tap the pedal the car begins to slow down. I've done some reading and thought it could be the throttle springs (i think) but I've never worked on carbed cars before. So, I called up the guys at Ztherapy (GREAT guys) to order their video and they asked me what kind of carbs i had. Told them stock 73 flat tops. He told me to throw they over my yard and act like i'd gotten rid of a body, just don't tell anyone i ever had them!!! AHAHAHAHA He also told me their video won't do me any good! I know my carbs SUCK, but I'm going to be swapping out the engine in about 2 months, (need $$) so i am just trying to get this thing at least in tune so i can save gas and not worry about the engine too much. (the carbs where JUST rebuilt about 10 months ago.) I was hoping there might be someone in Orange,CA or anywhere close that might be able to help me out. I would of course compensate you for your time (Beer, women, . . . . uhhh . . BEER) I just want to have the idle fixed and mixture tuned right. So, if anyone is brave enough to help and has a little time to spare it would help me out a lot. Plus, if someone shows me how to and explains, I'm sure I would understand much easier then reading a book. Thanx guys for even reading I hope someone can help.

well, i just got the car, and haven't drivin it except in my neighborhood and never put the seat belt on. After putting on the seat belt the sound went away. So that has been figured out. As for the switch, i went to the shop today and he told me exactly what NissanMan had said, The switch when turn on sends more power to the fuel pump for more gas to be pushed. But, thinking about this, the only time I would EVER need to do this would be when i have the gas at full throttle and am nearing 4-5K rpms . . . . right? Also, i just did a oil change and found that the oil hadn't been changed for over a year and that the previous owner only put in 4.3 Qts of oil. So, i switched it out and dropped in 5qts and a new filter. (mobile 1 & 10W-40) The car is running much smoother now, and i'll be checking the trans dip stick to see if i need to add anymore to that. But i have come upon other things that i have a question about. 1) In tons of pics i see these Fuesable link setups, like in http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25506 but i don't have this anywhere in my car. I only have the one behind the dash (picture in this thread. one with the switch) I was wondering if the 73 came with this or not. 2) This is the dumbest question, but where the hell does the over-the-shoulder buckel well . . . buckel into? I clip the lap belt straight across, but i can't for the life of me find a spot to hook in the chest belt?? Any help?

i'm guessing a good way to tell is if i push the switch down and try to start the car, and it doesn't then its a cutoff switch. If it starts then I'm, guessing that its what nissanman was thinking. It supply's extgra voltage to the fuel pump causing more fuel to be dropped in. I'm going to try it out today and see what happens. I'm noticing that the car is running XTREMLY rich, and this might be the reason. Will report back. Thanx for all the help guys!!! BIG THANX!!

Well, i figured out it was the seatbelt light not showing up. It went away the second i pulled on the seat belt!! YAY! I also followed the wires for the switch. They ran back to the fuel pump . . . any ideas? I'm, going down to the shop that did this and asking them what the hell its for

just went to their site, cause i really like the look. I can't find any 240z custom gauges? Did you have them specifically made just for your car? How much did they run you? Are they ungodly during the day? I just want a nice quite brighter gauge setup for my car at night. I want a somewhat stock look during the day though.

Is this by chance the pic you hope you had? If so, this is where the noise is coming from!! I think ur right. I will go down to the house today and check it out. Will post results tomorrow. (on a side note, does anyone know what the switch on the top right could be for? The PO said when he got the Carbs rebuilt the guy put that switch there for extra fuel. But, I was like " i don't see how a switch will do anything since carbs don't have an ECU for fuel.)

What exactly do you mean check with a new bulb? Do you mean use the tester that has a bulb at the end of it and put it in gear to make the light come on? Sorry, I'm not much good at electrical problems. I'm pretty uhh . . . limited

haha, sorry Its a 73' Z. I haven't put on the seatbelt yet to see if that's the problem. Will check when i get home. hahaha Well, i don't think its the Key in buzzer, since its only while in gear. I think the seat belt is probably a better guess. Will report back.

woops, i meant i know its is definitally electrical. The noise it makes has to be electrical it sounds like its coming from a speaker almost.

i know it is mechanical, the sound is def. an electrical sound. I have an A/T. If i press on the brakes while driving, the noise drops a little and as soon as i release them, it jumps right back up! Anyone got any ideas??

Was wondering if there was one i could use for my 73' Z? I like the look of this, and wouldn't mind the added safety.

Hey guys, I have checked all the grounds i could find in the engine bay, and everything seems to be ok. But here's my problem . . When i start up the car its fine. Engine is running and no noise. When i move it into gear Drive, Reverse, or anything else in gear, It makes this EXTREMLY LOUD WHINE noise. I think it is coming from the dash or the actual shifter. If i put it into park or neutral, the noise goes away. I don't know if anyone else has ever had this happen, I'm just hoping someone can help me pinpoint the problem. -Matt

if you find anything on the wireing schematics, then please post. I have to re-wire all my headlights, turn signals and rear tailights!! No fun for me!