visionary

I do, they are digitized in Denver and I am in Tucson. I will call and have them posted to this thread this evening. thanks, keith i am open to a fair market value for the car. i have over 10k invested, but of course don't expect to recoup my investment. the kelly low blue book is $4750.00. the car's condition is above the low standard, so, any resonable offer above 4000 is my mean target... keith

Hello, My '73 is up for sale again. Looks and runs great, have used it as my daily drive for the past three years. If you are interested please email me at: vysynry@hotmail.com or call 520.304.1989 thanks , Keith

the ploly bushings contributed to the reduction of clunking not because they are ploy rather because of corrected alignment of the moving components. i have balanced, rebuilt and replaced half shafts, u-joints; installed solid mounts, etc. the sum of the total is directly proportion to the factored input. i will stay with the poly, machined metal and fabricated updates. they work... i also enjoy my 4channel 150 watt cd player over original mono am... i have learned a great deal from this thread, thanks again for all the great input

The bearing grease has stopped the squeaking, but, I will try one more time with a silicone lubricant. concerning the ride and handling, it is true. the handling is much more positive and the ride is improved a thousand percent. I have replaced all of my bushings with poyurethane on the car. one thing that has also improved substantially is the "clunking" from the rear end. i also installed the tension arm kit from motorsport as well and the alignment and positive feel in the steering wheel is very noticable as well. the car has an 'updated' feel to the ride and handling and is very solid. sorry about the delay in responding... keith

Hi, I just had the same problem on my passenger door. I had replaced the screws for the lock and had put the incorrect screws in the door. check your screw lengths. i had put in the "long" screws (about 1/2 inch or so) but you need to have the "short" screws otherwise the threads will inhibit the travel of the lock rod action. when i replaced the screws with the shorter thread screws it allowed the lock rods to complete their throw and i was able to adjust the handles, etc. my door will not lock when open but does lock when closed. i had to turn the lock mechenism to the locked position with the door open in order to get the lock cylinder rod connecter in the correct possition to allow the knob rod connector to acutuate... good luck keith

hello gentlemen, does anyone have the magic tech app for the poly urethane rear control arm bushing "squeak". i have greased the bushings with bearing grease which has diminished the problem. i have not been able to elimate the issue. it is worse in lower, below 50 degrees, temp... thanks keith

does anyone out there have any cures for the 'squeak' after installing polyurethane rear control arm bushings. i have reduce the squeak completely on the right rear by greasing them with bearing grease but have only reduce the problem on the left rear.... any magic tricks would be appreciated

hasn't happened to me BUT i have seen them. i got the short course in selection and alignment prodecure from kym at idaho z car. he has a 170 mph '70 240 that has won nationals on the quarter mile. his recommendation is the nissan part. they are substantially more expensive but the peace of mind is worth the investment. when you replace the joints it is best to replace all of the joints. it is also essential to balance the drive shaft and the half shafts and align the transmission to differential to the shaft with a solid shaft prior to installation of new joints. the stress from ' out of round' turning increases failure dramatically. i use a solid differential mount to reduce torque flex on the drive line as well. the increase in noise transfer is minimal, however, at certain speeds the harmonics do transfer throught the frame and rear end mounts to the interior. keith

5k is my prefered price. to deliver i would have to meet this reserve. however, i am taking the best offer proir to my return to school... if you would like to see more of the car, let me know. i can also give you an independant evaluation from a z car specialist here in denver. keith 720.981.8093

am open to delivery anywhere in the u.s.a

the modifications: 3 core radiator polyurathane bushings 72 su carbs 72 manifold custom built distributor custom built alternator custom built transmission 150watt 4 channel amp no rust msa areo kit new 205x60x14 tires new brakes rubber coated interior sheet metal re-dyed interior new door rubber and felts if you want to see more, reply keith

hi, i am in denver and have this car for sale, however i will only be here for another 10 days or so. this car has about 10 k invested but is will sell it for less. a daily driver. let me know what you think... keith

here is a side view of the car. if you want to see more,let me know. this car is rust free.

o.k., here are a couple of photos of the car. will post interior and engine comparment soon. keith 720.981.8093 or vysynry@hotmail.com best offer before sept 1

hi guys, i am currently in denver, co.. am planing on leaving in about 10 days to return to the bay area(S.F.) for a year of school. i took photos of the car today and will post tommorrow afternoon. look at the classified, this car has no rust at all and drives like a bat out of hell. i just put 3000 on the odometer driving through the west. used 1/4 quart of oil, from a small pan leak. i tried to keep the speed at a moderate average, around 80-85 most of the time. in the morning i am taking the car over to fortunz of wheels in denver. he is a z specialist shop. i would be glad to pay him for an independant evaluation for serious inquries. keith 720.981.8093 in denver or vysynry@hotmail.com