visionary

I do, they are digitized in Denver and I am in Tucson. I will call and have them posted to this thread this evening. thanks, keith i am open to a fair market value for the car. i have over 10k invested, but of course don't expect to recoup my investment. the kelly low blue book is $4750.00. the car's condition is above the low standard, so, any resonable offer above 4000 is my mean target... keith

Hello, My '73 is up for sale again. Looks and runs great, have used it as my daily drive for the past three years. If you are interested please email me at: vysynry@hotmail.com or call 520.304.1989 thanks , Keith

the ploly bushings contributed to the reduction of clunking not because they are ploy rather because of corrected alignment of the moving components. i have balanced, rebuilt and replaced half shafts, u-joints; installed solid mounts, etc. the sum of the total is directly proportion to the factored input. i will stay with the poly, machined metal and fabricated updates. they work... i also enjoy my 4channel 150 watt cd player over original mono am... i have learned a great deal from this thread, thanks again for all the great input

The bearing grease has stopped the squeaking, but, I will try one more time with a silicone lubricant. concerning the ride and handling, it is true. the handling is much more positive and the ride is improved a thousand percent. I have replaced all of my bushings with poyurethane on the car. one thing that has also improved substantially is the "clunking" from the rear end. i also installed the tension arm kit from motorsport as well and the alignment and positive feel in the steering wheel is very noticable as well. the car has an 'updated' feel to the ride and handling and is very solid. sorry about the delay in responding... keith

Hi, I just had the same problem on my passenger door. I had replaced the screws for the lock and had put the incorrect screws in the door. check your screw lengths. i had put in the "long" screws (about 1/2 inch or so) but you need to have the "short" screws otherwise the threads will inhibit the travel of the lock rod action. when i replaced the screws with the shorter thread screws it allowed the lock rods to complete their throw and i was able to adjust the handles, etc. my door will not lock when open but does lock when closed. i had to turn the lock mechenism to the locked position with the door open in order to get the lock cylinder rod connecter in the correct possition to allow the knob rod connector to acutuate... good luck keith

hello gentlemen, does anyone have the magic tech app for the poly urethane rear control arm bushing "squeak". i have greased the bushings with bearing grease which has diminished the problem. i have not been able to elimate the issue. it is worse in lower, below 50 degrees, temp... thanks keith

does anyone out there have any cures for the 'squeak' after installing polyurethane rear control arm bushings. i have reduce the squeak completely on the right rear by greasing them with bearing grease but have only reduce the problem on the left rear.... any magic tricks would be appreciated

hasn't happened to me BUT i have seen them. i got the short course in selection and alignment prodecure from kym at idaho z car. he has a 170 mph '70 240 that has won nationals on the quarter mile. his recommendation is the nissan part. they are substantially more expensive but the peace of mind is worth the investment. when you replace the joints it is best to replace all of the joints. it is also essential to balance the drive shaft and the half shafts and align the transmission to differential to the shaft with a solid shaft prior to installation of new joints. the stress from ' out of round' turning increases failure dramatically. i use a solid differential mount to reduce torque flex on the drive line as well. the increase in noise transfer is minimal, however, at certain speeds the harmonics do transfer throught the frame and rear end mounts to the interior. keith

5k is my prefered price. to deliver i would have to meet this reserve. however, i am taking the best offer proir to my return to school... if you would like to see more of the car, let me know. i can also give you an independant evaluation from a z car specialist here in denver. keith 720.981.8093

am open to delivery anywhere in the u.s.a

the modifications: 3 core radiator polyurathane bushings 72 su carbs 72 manifold custom built distributor custom built alternator custom built transmission 150watt 4 channel amp no rust msa areo kit new 205x60x14 tires new brakes rubber coated interior sheet metal re-dyed interior new door rubber and felts if you want to see more, reply keith

hi, i am in denver and have this car for sale, however i will only be here for another 10 days or so. this car has about 10 k invested but is will sell it for less. a daily driver. let me know what you think... keith

here is a side view of the car. if you want to see more,let me know. this car is rust free.

o.k., here are a couple of photos of the car. will post interior and engine comparment soon. keith 720.981.8093 or vysynry@hotmail.com best offer before sept 1

hi guys, i am currently in denver, co.. am planing on leaving in about 10 days to return to the bay area(S.F.) for a year of school. i took photos of the car today and will post tommorrow afternoon. look at the classified, this car has no rust at all and drives like a bat out of hell. i just put 3000 on the odometer driving through the west. used 1/4 quart of oil, from a small pan leak. i tried to keep the speed at a moderate average, around 80-85 most of the time. in the morning i am taking the car over to fortunz of wheels in denver. he is a z specialist shop. i would be glad to pay him for an independant evaluation for serious inquries. keith 720.981.8093 in denver or vysynry@hotmail.com

hi. check out the for sale classified. i am leaving for colorado tommorrow for 4 weeks, can send pics when i get there. currently in wine county, nocal (sonoma county) great car, a real driver keith email:vysynry@hotmail or voice:720.981.8093 i colorado will be back in s.f. area by first of sept.

I have to sell my 73 240z to go back to school in September. I am in the wine country of northern california but am leaving for denver on tuesday the 5th of August for 4 weeks. i will deliver the car in colorado, california or nevada. when i get to denver i will post a jpg photo of the car. the car: gun metal grey with an MSA areo kit auto trans that is freshly built with performance kit. at full throttle first gear shifts at 45mph, second gear shifts at 72 mph solid differential mount, polyurthane bushings in rear control arms and mustache bar new fulda tires new brakes tension bar kit with balljoints quick link front sway bar kit polyurthane bushing in all of steering unit redyed interior turbo oil pump burns zero oil new timing chain and water pump custom built 72 manual distributor (single point) 72 su carbs with roller bearing throtle bodies 72 intake manifold this is a nice z, i have 10-12 k invested, will take best offer... keith vysynry@hotmail.com or call 720.981.8093 and ask for keith or bruce

that is a tough decision. I would Drive both cars hard and loo\k at the mods available based on what you ulimately want to drive. I have a 73 with alot of mod and 12,000 $ later it is begining to really be a fine automobile. The early Z's are very different the the later models. However, there are fantastic performace enhancements for both. Classic cars are very individual and meet very indidvidual requirments. Keiht

never mind, I downloaded, nice work though. It seems to me that that type mod is a complete rehab. There is nothing in common between the 79 and 70-73 wiring because of additional wiring requirements and design changes. Big money or mucho time or both would accomplish the task. I would spend the money on the founding unit as killer suggested, the rest is up to your imagination. Keith

Hey killer, I have no idea about the dash swap out, however, it is prety obvious why you don't like the consumer version. What I want to know is... what year is the second dash and how do I do this to my '73? It is a killer keith

Sorry guys, I made a mistake on the "pods". There are two pod type switches. One is for the indicators and the other is for the hazards. There are several different wiring harness with different connectors and pod types based on early and late model 240 z's. I have not found a wiring diagram that fits the exact wiring in my car. It seems to be a hybrid of both early and late model harness and component assembly. You computor guys might call this a migration model. I have found that using "best practices" based on real architecture has worked well in determining actual causation. Good luck... keith

Well, You know, it is rather "yucky" to get screwed by the electrical thing. If you remember, I had the single signal failure issue. I applied all of the techniques described at on point or another in the battle. The signal "pods" can cause failure, however it should only be a front or back failiure, there are front and back signal "pods". A fuse or the fuse box is a more likely cause of complete failure or as in my case, the signal switching unit on the column stalk can cause intermitent, partial or complete failure. I disassembled mine, cleaned with solvents and emery cloth, resoldered all connections at the switch and at the fuse box an relubed the moving parts. Amazingly all signals work perfectly now with a very positive "throw". This stalk switch is made of primitive circut materials, inexpensive metal composites and very old solder. Check it out... keith

Okay, I have switched the front cable connectors to the turn signal bulb sockets and now I have parking lights. I also reconnected all of the underdash connection after cleaning and cleaned the rear bulb sockets (they had considerable buildup on them). The battery has been drained to a point that there may not be enough voltage to engage the signals. No signal yet...will charge the battery and update... Also put new bulbs in front signal sockets again. Thanks. Keith

Yeah Carl, I have serveral bulbs and have switched them around. I also have another socket connector ( the one that runs from the harness on the front framerail to the turn signal) and have interchanged those with the same results. I have found that the factory connector from the turn signal switch has begun to melt on the corner that the green/yellow wire connects at and am considering elimating the connector and replacing them with new single wire connectors. This is a difficult failure to figure out. I think there may be short somewhere in the wiring, either at connection points, through the fuse box or from stresses of heat and/or wear within the harness over time. Where, is the direction of diagnosis which I will proceed with. I will begin to run a bypass wire from switch to subsequent connection points on all wires until I can isolate a short point or an unreliable connection route. If that doesn't work, I will throw money at the problem with a professional automotive electrition. Will post any progress... Keith:dead:

Let me keep this simple... I have completed continuity checks on all wires to the turn signal and have continuity in all of the wires, both to the signal switch and to the parking light stalk switch. The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc. I have not replaced the flasher pod or the hazard flash pod. Hazards work, signal does not work, parking light does not work, turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning... At the risk of being to verbose, I will stop here. Thanks Keith