visionary

Latin, we had to take it in high school...

I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method. Keith

Sorry about the delay on responses. Have been busy with much ado about nothing. I was using the doctine of double effect otherwise known as the lesser of two evils in my troubleshooting of this problem. However, the principle of Occam's Razor, "pluralitas non est penenda sine necessitate" or dont't create unnecessary entities, was in fact the correct application. Thank you you saved me many troublesome hours of diagnostic torture. Keith:stupid:

Rick, Excellent choice. This spring past we were talking about street tires. I have inexpensive american "BBS" style rims. Only 14x6. I chose the Fulda 205x14x60 until I upgrade to performance rims. Will give periodic test reports. Keith

I assume you have the SU type carb. You might want to read the post from Rick Hanson under the "needles?" subject in this forum. He gives an address and number for a specialist in Colorado. If your mixture adjustment assembly is loose you have problems with the jets and needles, otherwise you would have to post more information about the problem. A conversation with a carb specialist could be the answer. Keith

Mike, I would be interested in any update on the fit of the 280 rubber to the 70-73 240. The weatherstripping I got from MSA had the factory part numbers and stickers on the plastic packaging and the rubber is way to thick. When I do the passenger door I will try some alternative fitting methods, however I don't know when that will be as that rubber is in the garage in Denver and I am in Boise presently. Thanks, Keith

3M makes a weatherstriping adhesive remover. I went out to my garage to find the product code but remembered I had discarded the can earlier this summer. I will try to find the product number. The product should be available any place you can get the 3M yellow "snot" weatherstripping adhesive. It comes in the normal non-descript 3M packaging with the big red 3M logo on it. Like most of the 3M product it works very well. First apply a liberal amount to the old weather stripping and let sit for about 10-15 minutes. This weakened the bonding enough for me to remove the old "hard" weatherstripping but did not completely remove the old adhesive. Re-apply a liberal amount on the remaining adhesive and let stand again. With a little work and good tools you should be able to scrape and rub the remaining adhesive from the bodywork without damaging the paint. Note: If you find a supplier with the black 3M adhesive you will unquestionably find the remover as well. Keith

I have a modification sheet for installing discs from a late, I believe '82, nissan maxima. The mod is very compatable and bolts directly to the suspension. I was also reading a thread the other day that had a diagram for venting the rear drums. I would do the mod if I was going to keep the car. Both are great ideas... Keith:beard: P.S. I will dig out the maxima mod sheet and post the url

When I first bought the car it was unstable at 80mph. The considerable front end lift made the car scary. After installing considerable polyurethane, solid mounts and a complete aero kit the car smooths out at 80 for a very comfortable ride. I haven't pushed passed 115 but it rolls 95 at 4300 rpm. The vibration and lift was not considerable above the century mark, however, over prolonged use close to that speed on two lane, I did experience significant brake fade, even to the point of near complete failure after 30 or 40 minutes. The drums were ringing like a bell, which influenced the onset of caution at speed with this auto. '73 240z Keith

This is the response I have been looking for. I have serveral wiring diagrams for my model and year configuration, however, what I have found to be true is that different systems are wired uniquely. In other words, the A/C wiring matches the diagram out of the Haynes early model S30 diagram whereas the AT matches the late model diagram from Clymer manual. My '73 was manufactured in 11/72 and seems to have different production components mixed throughout the systems. I will pull my meter and long leads with aligator clips out tommorrow evening and pass the data back though this thread A million thanks for the wiring codec. Keith

Gentlemen, All of your suggestions of possible cause are viable, I think I will get out the volt meter and explore these potential causes prior to removing the signal stalk. I had never heard of the filiment short before. The rear signal does function which is one of the baffling things about this... thanks keith

It is always good to hear some support. Actually, the cover panels are off as I have had to replace the light stalk on the column and have had to dismantle the ignition switch to remove the door key several times due to worn tumblers and worn levels of attention when inserting the correct key. I am of the understanding from more knowledgable Z parts guru's that even different '73 versions have different switch harness connectors. I was able to go through a bucket of light stalks in Denver at Fortunz of Wheels to find one that worked on my '73. I need to do some rewiring of harness conncetors because of "meltdown" that has occured in them over the years causing me to have to cut and splice individual wires that have been burned through in the old connectors, so, I think I will remove and disassemble the turn signal switch to see if I can rebuild the worn assembly. I was successful doing this with the original fan switch for the heater/AC. Will update... Keith

I forgot to mention that is for the SU type Hitachi carb.

The standard mixture screw "Backoff" is one and one half turns from the completely closed position. In other words: tighten the screws completely against the carb body and back them off (counter clockwise) 1 & 1/2 turns as a starting point for your sync and adjustment process... Keith

I have a small problem with my left turn signal I can not seem to run down. The signal has stopped working when I activate the turn signal lever on the steering column. The hazard switch activates the signal and the parking/running lights work. This leads me to believe it is the steering column switch that is malfunctioning. Any opinions??? Keith:tapemouth

Hey, good luck tomorrow. All of us feel a little pride when another Z owner brings recognition to the ownership and heritage of the automobile. I am glad the car has smoothed out for you. You might consider the option of a 3 core radiator. I waited a full year to replace mine (which had the original 2 core). During that time I had it flushed and reconditioned twice at a cost of about $50 US both times with no noticable results. On warm or just F---ing hot days the car always registered above the mid mark on the gauge and if I decided to push speed above 90 it was more to the 3/4 mark. After replacing the radiator with a 3 core, I have run all day above the 90 mark with the needle barely touching the mid mark. This last trip was in daytime temps above 80 degrees at altitudes above 7500 ft. In fact, I hit Donner Summit (ask someone else where that is) at 95 with the mark at 1/3 and 1/3 left in the pedal two weeks ago.... The cost, after a little negotiation, was $212.00 delivered.... have fun Keith

Hey Baddog, I doubt there is a 240z.org member that would not support the following statement. The sending unit for the oil pressure gauge on the L24 engine is a piece of crap. You can replace the unit. I have read various accounts of junk yard and aftermarket parts replacements of the sending unit, however they all end with the same ending; the unit fails again. I replaced my oil pump with the turbo version from MSA and it did make a slight difference at the gauge. I have a parts box with 4 old sending units from previous owners, so, I haven't bothered to replace the crappy one on the engine currently. It is devilish how the mental effects of a needle that does not move play havoc with grey matter. Like I said, I had to replace my oil pump with a turbo pump before I felt comforable. The actual problem is the sending unit. I did see a VDO sending unit last week that I will most likely end up buying ($35.00), but, once again, that is only for my mental stability... Keith

Bad dog, First of all, I want to say that you have gotten yourself a very nice Z with a great deal of TLC before your purchase. In contrast , My Z had 23 previous owners and was found in an impound lot in Los Angles. So, go slow with any changes you make to your ride and be careful to consider all of the options available to you when making any choices. I ALWAYS put premium gas in my Z. The changes in octane rating between 1972 and now require the 89 to 92 octane rating for these engines in todays market. Correct tuning, ie fresh plugs, points, condenser, wires, etc. are all very important components of a smooth running Z. The point is your relationship with your Z will be very intimate, and the smallest inconsisitency will be noticable in your car. Keith

Rick, Thank you for offering to do a test fitting for me. I am going to replace my tires but it won't be until the latter part of the summer. Currently I have 14x6" mags on the car, so I think I will stay with the wheel this time, however, when I am ready, some time in July, I will contact you about tires and fit. thanks, Keith

Rick, Are there any substantial inner fender "rub" issues at full suspension travel with the 225-50 on series tires on a 14" rim with street setups, i.e. performance springs with 1" overall lowering? Keith

I like the T/A's also, although those potenza look good. The 215 60 series fits on a 6" or wider rim well without any adverse effect to the speedo. I ran VR 255 50 15's on my 84 vette at speeds above 150 and they were always smooth but the best thing about them was that you could feel the sidewall flex and have lateral traction before they break loose in the corners. I switched to the T/A's after spinouts with the Goodyear gatorbacks that had no indicators or lateral grip before breaking... Keith

I will add my testimonial to the ztherapy carbs. They are worh the money. One issue you must be aware of when rebuilding a stock Hitachi roundtop is that when the linkage wears out it also wears the bushings out and you get air leakage into the throtle body. The bearings eliminate most of this "wear" problem and the performance is great. Keith

Baddog, The only box I could find for the individual air cleaners is a Beck Arnley worldparts box. These work well and should last you thought the summer. The part # is 042-8136 and, like I said before, I believe these are acutally for Volvo's. You will also need four 3 1/4" bolts to fit though the air cleaners as the mounting bolts for the stock airbox are to long. Be sure to get some good lockwashers as well. One other thing, you have to route your float bowl venting lines into the back of one of the air cleaners. Use a little common sense to secure the atachment. MrMoonshineMan, connecting the two nipples will not do anything bad or is it wrong to do so but pluging the outlets with pipe plugs will insure that the line doesn't break or come off, etc. as these occurances would be bad and your distributor would receive the wrong amount of vacume advance pressure from the intake manifold... Keith

Thanks for the info. The site has alot of good info and products. Now I just need to figure out which will fit my '72 SU carbs (which are actually Hitachi HJG 46W-3A if anyone is ordering parts for '72 roundtops) individually. Keith