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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. I think this is the first time I've seen such a thing on any of these boards. Wow. That is exceptionally rusty.
  2. I think pictures would be extremely helpful here.
  3. It's basically just the hatch and the C pillar emblems. Not hard to do. Doesn't look like he got any of the other series 1 details.
  4. There's a registry on zhome.com but your car isn't listed there.
  5. You were asking about boring out the L24. There's a post by Xnke in there that suggests that some L24 blocks would have enough wall thickness to go to 85mm. Regarding Rebello's Purist 2.7, I can't say for sure, but using an L28 crank (79mm stroke) and 85mm bore would give you 2690cc. I'd bet that's what he does. Munters ultimately made around 270hp with his build, so if you haven't read through the entire thread, you should. You can do it yourself, but that thread should give you a good idea of what can be done with an L24, and what it takes to reach the numbers that Munters did.
  6. I think you might find this thread on HybridZ useful. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102748-build-after-24-years
  7. And maybe a little video of some high speed fly bys
  8. Maybe not this one. Even if you undid the body mods, the original motor is still long gone. The numbers not matching will really ding the value.
  9. If I swapped out my L, the S54 would be close to top of the list. Only thing I don't like about it is the weight. I've considered doing that swap in my E30 as well, but again, weight (also cost and effort).
  10. Do I understand correctly that you intend to get this unit from a donor car in a junkyard? If so, you'd be better off just getting an aftermarket unit. Search on HybridZ. I believe there's one or two inexpensive aftermarket LSDs that people have been happy with. Inexpensive meaning under $500. The only LSD I know of that you could get from a JY that would work in a Z is the CLSD from a 87-89(?) 300ZX Turbo, and those are getting hard to find. Additionally, it wouldn't meet your needs anyway, since you'd likely have to change your axles.
  11. That's a remarkably clean car. It looks new! I will be very interested to see what it goes for, given that it is the less collectible 280Z.
  12. Feel free to ignore if you'd rather not say, but I am curious to know if you got your asking price or close to it? Previously, it was mostly 240Zs that commanded good prices, but if nicely done 280Zs are getting prices in the 20s now, that would be interesting. There's another 280Z (green) that was posted on here that was closer to stock, but still very nice, with an asking price of 20K, and it seemed to sell pretty quickly.
  13. Kinda looks like it's starting to by looking at the doors.
  14. Would you mind being more specific? Looks like most suggest 4k front and 5K rear, which probably isn't what I'd choose, though I can't say that I know what rates are best for an S30. From what I've seen on HybridZ, rates between 200lb/in and 250lb/in are pretty common for a street car. 5k is about 280lb/in, which seems a bit stiff. I just looked on their site, and I couldn't find their camber plates. I've seen a couple bolt in camber plate solutions, and they usually have drawbacks in lack of range of adjustment, and/or you have to unbolt the strut top to make adjustment.
  15. I was under the impression that CX Racing sells chinese junk. Ground control sells camber plates BTW. And GC would be my brand of choice for coilovers and camber plates. Like TTT, GC also has a service where they'll do your coilovers for you.
  16. I live in NJ as well. Avoid salt like the plague, and keep it clean. Make sure all the drains work properly, make sure there's no dirt or leag build up holding moisture, etc. As for water, if you wash the car, or get rained on while out and about, and then put it away in a dry garage, I can't imagine that the water will stay there long enough to cause any damage. Maybe I'm not being paranoid enough, but I doubt that water from washing is going to cause damage, assuming the paint job is any good. Exception would be if it's pooling up somewhere in large enough amounts that it doesn't dry out quickly.
  17. Your dash would probably be pretty easy to fix since it's in okay shape to start with.
  18. I see you decided to buy it. Congrats! Nice looking property you have there BTW. Reminds me a bit of my relatives place in Oregon - it's a cabin near the Columbia Gorge.
  19. Stock diameter is 25". You want the 55s with just under 24" diameter. 50s are too small at 23"
  20. I've heard something about people snapping the TC rod when using poly bushings there. Might want to look into that and maybe reconsider.
  21. Hit up the junkyard, and see what you can find. I can't imagine that a head would be too expensive. Or, are you actually interested in turboing the car in the future? Given your current financial situation, I'm wondering if maybe it would be best to take a break while you gather your thoughts - and funds - before you make a decision. It sounds like there isn't much you can do right now.
  22. Maybe it would be easier right now to use the pistons you have now, and swap to an N42/N47 head.
  23. Amazing what you guys consider parts cars over there. Looks pretty damn good to me. No rust, I bet.
  24. Sounds about right. I don't have high hopes for Google/YouTube's future.
  25. Reminds me of what I went through with my E30. The old, high miles motor developed a knock, I pulled it out and replaced it with a refreshed low miles motor - new gaskets and all new bearings. Started knocking within 2k miles. No clue why. I've never had a car with so many engine issues (still doesn't idle right, two engines later - can't figure that out either). Looks like the damage isn't too bad at a glance. Good luck rebuilding.
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