rturbo 930

My experience with Tabco parts has been that they don't tend to fit well. Reports on quality from those who have bought from KlassicFab have been very good. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/rear-hatch-slam-panel-datsun-240z/

They're only on the series one cars. They had the tools located behind plastic covers just ahead of where the tool boxes are. Presumably someone realized there was some dead space there that could be used to put the tools in and did that instead for the next run of cars.

Shame to see this thread go off the rails. The 'no' response was a bit curt, but whatever, not a huge deal. As for boasting, I think that's ridiculous. OP got himself a nice car and was excited to share, is that not what this forum is for? I think it'd be good if a mod would prune this thread back, and we could all just move on. Would be good if OP would put his pics back up. Just ignore the guy complaining.

That was my thought too. I would think leaving a drain hole in the bottom would be enough to take care of that. The only concern then is stuff getting in through the drain hole in the bottom, which I don't think would be very easy, but I'm sure might still happen to a small degree.

The issue with clearance is likely the 5mph crash bumper supports, which could simply be trimmed off since they're not really needed if you're not running the impact bumpers, or intending on ever returning to them. I think this is what you're looking for: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1402

I can't imagine anything but the urethane air dam being able to bend like that without breaking, so I'm assuming that's the urethane air dam. You need to just lay it out in the sun, since they're flexible they tend to fold them up to ship them.

280Z is my guess.

While I am hardly an expert on the topic, I know enough to know that's exactly what you don't do when breaking in a motor. I'd be questioning the credibility of the engine builder if he told me that, and would likely ignore his instructions.

You registered two weeks ago, youve got 14 posts, and you're asking us how one would steal a Z?

Looks like Auto Panel Solutions in the UK makes a panel for that, although it doesn't look to be identical, if that's what your standard is. https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/

It'll probably say somewhere in his build thread here: https://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961.html

It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts.

I would never put a solid diff mount on a street car. It would help if you told us why you can't use the OEM mount and what your car's setup is. A popular option is the Ron Tyler diff mount, a version of which can be found for sale here: https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

What year is that 280 pedal box? Might be important to note given that the 280Z saw a lot of changes for the 77 model year, I don't know if the pedal box was one of them.

Body kit would make it a pass for me.

What kind of car are you looking for, in terms of condition? Perfect and original? What kind of repairs are you willing to do? Although there a few questionable spots, particularly the rear bumper, I really didn't think that one was very bad, and it's unlikely you'll find one that needs nothing.

See my reply above since I've edited it since you posted. Also, I've had a couple Zs, and they don't necessarily have perfect body gaps. The area between the front door and the fender right at the top seems like it has a tendency to be larger relative to the rest of the body line there. Maybe the front fender was messed with, who knows. Go see the car in person with someone who knows what they're looking at. Edit: However, that rear bumper should not be that crooked. I'd look hard at that area.

You're comparing a 240 to a 280 which has bigger rails. I'd need a better photo to say for sure, since there does look to be weld toward the front of the 280, but forward of that part, the rails are clearly stock, you can see the flange of the factory rail and it looks to be untouched. Unless there is a seam where the light is hitting the rail, then I'm left to conclude the rails are stock. Again, better photos are needed. As for the paint, I think it's just how the sun is hitting it. it matches above the pinstriping, and if you look down at the bottom of the dogleg, just above the body line, again, the colors on the quarter and the door are matching. Nico needs to go see it in person with his own eyes, and ideally, with an experienced friend, and see what is actually there or not.

Frame rails look standard to me. Need a lot more photos to really get a good sense of the car's condition but from what you've posted it looks fine to me. I do see a patch at the front of the driver's floor, and it does looks like there's a weld seam on the frame rail in that area, but I'm not sure if that's what it is since I only see one weld, and no actual patch. Also looks to be a patch on the passenger side under the seat. Need better photos of that area.

I would think carefully about any mod that requires drilling holes or cutting. The spoilers will require drilling holes in your hatch, and the L28ET swap may also, since putting a later 5 speed in an early car typically requires additional clearance at the front side of the shifter cut out. Hard to say what else will be necessary to run wiring, mount intercooler, oil cooler, additional gauges, etc.

For the record, those are not my measurements.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99017-240z-rack-into-280z/

240 racks are a little quicker.

I'm far from an expert, but I've broken in two engines now, including one recently, so the info is fairly fresh in my mind, and my understanding is that the window of opportunity to set the rings is within maybe 50 to 100 miles. During the break in process you don't want to take it easy (except at first). Previously the thought was that you have to baby your engine for the first thousand miles, which from what I've read is the opposite of what you want to do. Cylinder pressure will force the rings out toward the cylinder walls, thus breaking them in and creating a good seal, so based on my research, what I ultimately ended up doing is starting off easy, going up to about 3000 rpm and about 1/2 throttle, and gradually working my way toward redline and full throttle, and engine braking/letting the car slow down on its own between acceleration runs. Then change oil. Lots of info out there supporting variations of this method.

That would make sense. I saw those too, and thought to myself "that would be a great place to tie a roll bar into the roof".