rturbo 930
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Everything posted by rturbo 930
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What's the rotor diameter?
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I wasn't aware they were available to non-customers of the shop, but it sounds like that's something they're just starting to sell to the public. Is this a front and back kit? If so, how do they address the emergency brake in back?
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Yup. https://www.instagram.com/the240zguild/
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Why not get a later mustache bar and move the diff back?
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I follow him on Instagram. Very little of the original car is left. I don't recall exactly but maybe the windshield and frame, door hinge and latch posts, not a whole lot else. The original car was not in good shape. Here's his website: https://attackingtheclock.com/
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If you're referring to the car that John Coffey built, I don't believe that's the car that won the event, and 260DET is likely referring to a different car, as IIRC, the winners were from Australia.
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I'm not sure either, but it kinda looks like it has an old school turbo set up on it, although I'm entirely sure that that's what that is.
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I'm pretty sure that's a '72. I had VIN 54345, which had the door tag missing, but I estimated it to have a build date of 11/71. It had the vertical defroster glass, which was used up until 12/71 I think, or close to that, so that's likely original glass in your car. Series 1 cars were made up to 1/71, and series 2 cars were made until whenever the '72 model year started, without looking, probably sometime around 9/71. Looking at your photos, it doesn't appear your car has the chrome gas door latch, which is dead giveaway that it's a 72 or later. It also appears to have the lip on the rad support for the weather strip piece that they added later, which is interesting, since I don't believe '72s had that.
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I follow a guy on Instagram who was attempting that swap, but just sold the car. The engine looked like it actually fit in the bay pretty well. I was surprised. Should make a great noise if they manage to do it.
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At this point in time, I think it's safe to say that cutting up a straight, rust free shell is sacrilegious. Doesn't look like it's the right year anyway.
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You've got both feet in now.
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You've made several threads like this now. Stick to one.
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One thing the Z32 has going for it is that I would expect it to be much easier to find one in good shape, meaning, not needing a total restoration, and also rust free. Even the most solid looking Datsuns often have rust issues of some sort. I'm assuming Z32s are a bit better, but could be wrong.
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You guys are talking about the skin, I think he means the whole damned roof, as stated at the start of his post.
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A $1000 240 these days is going to be a piece of junk, in need of major work. If that's all you can afford to spend on the initial purchase, how are you going to pay for everything it needs thereafter?
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The skillard piece is unimpressive at best, and isn't suitable for anyone looking to replicate the factory piece. It's also the wrong thickness (18 gauge) and at $120 not exactly cheap for what ultimately amounts to three flat pieces cut into shape, and a single piece with a simple bend. MSA should come out with the piece that the battery tray sits on as well.
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Looks like they just shaved all the emblems. Definitely bring that one home.
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Yeah, maybe I'm not up to date on Z values, but I don't see a $20k car there. It looks like it needs a total restoration. $10k is way more in line with what I'd expect it to go for. Also, in addition to the rust in the firewall, it looks like it has rust on the inside of the tail panel, just below where the tail lights mount, where the tail panel meets the trunk floor. Strange place to rust, don't think I've seen that before.
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Do you have the numbers matching motor? How complete is it? Maybe it would be good to take a bunch of photos so we can get a good idea of what you have, and the condition of it, and the guys here can offer you some guidance from there. Also, go into more detail on what you want to do with it. Shocks and lowering springs are easy to reverse, so are wheels, or a front air dam. You could easily keep the old parts on a shelf should you ever want to sell it or return it to stock. More permanent modifications, such as weld on coilovers, or fender mirrors, or anything that requires drilling, cutting, or welding is another matter.
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Wonder if it'd be better if you traded your car for another later model so that someone could restore the one you have, and you could modify your car to your taste without guilt.
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275 and 300lb/in springs are going to be really stiff, and those shocks are likely matched to them. Having seen your other thread, it sounds like this isn't a car you want to cut up too much. Get some basic springs and shocks that you can just install without cutting/welding your strut tubes, so that you can easily go back to stock if you want to.
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280Z lower front corners.
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I was under the impression that automatics became available around mid 1970.
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I have a good one in another car, I just need to pluck it before I sell the car. Thanks for the offer though.
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Would like to hear some feedback from anyone who has gotten this one. I was under the impression only the type with tinted banner were available. I'm going to need a new windshield at some point, and the only OE one available to me would have to be stolen from another car I have. A proper OE windshield replacement would be great to have.
