rturbo 930

If someone's willing to spend the coin, these are popular among the Porsche guys. http://www.classiccarseats.com/index.php

With regards to styling, I could go either way on the flares, but execution is critical if you want them to look good. Many don't. Part of it is the quality of the flare. The one sold by MSA, Classic Datsun, etc., are all a copy of a copy of a copy etc., and the exact fitment and shape of the original has been lost. The result is a poor product. To my knowledge, the best ZG flare available is made by Marugen Shokai in Japan. They are direct copies of the original, and are said to fit very well by those on these boards who have bought them. The other part of it is the installation. In this particular case, it looks as thought the rear flares should be rotated slightly toward the ground using the front of the flare by the dogleg as the pivot point of the rotation. If you look at the close up shot of the rear wheel and flare, you can see that the gap at about the 2 o clock position is much larger than anywhere on the forward half of the flare. This may be partly to do with the flare itself as well. On the Gnose Z example posted above, the flare shape is uniform, and the gap is pretty even all the way around. Regarding ride height, I have the same problem getting a jack under my E30, but I just roll it onto some 2x4s before I work on it. Not trying to knock your car or your work, CDL, but I think the overall finished product would benefit greatly if you improved the fitment of the flares.

Surely the car has shown up by now, what kind of news do you have for us?

I like everything but the flares. I hate to say it, but they look like they're not mounted right. Given how clean the car was before I think it would have been better to just leave those off. Where'd you get the rear view mirror?

I think I saw a post on here, or on HybridZ, from someone removing a sunroof very much like that. Looked very factory. But as far as I know, Zs simply were not available with a sunroof. I think you've got your terms backwards here. That's a sunroof. A moon roof is typically tinted glass like you see on a lot of newer cars.

My dad's '67 GMC still has its split rims. Doubt I could find anyone who is willing to put new tires on. Easier to just get new rims and tires.

I heard earlier today that you all down south got some snow. Must be a rarity for you guys. We're supposed to get some snow here tomorrow, probably from the same storm, I bet. Looks like driving season's over.

I recognize that car. That's a HybridZ member selling those.

I believe they would have been added for the 1973 production year. It isn't listed specifically on zhome, but I would expect they were added at the same time as the other safety features. See here: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm

Could you please break your post up into paragraphs? It is very hard to read. Thanks.

No, he didn't, YOU did. He said he was putting it in storage because he doesn't have the time to deal with it. YOU applied the assumption that he was hiding it, and therefore felt he was guilty of something. I do think MJ should run the firewall VIN just to be sure, but to suggest that he is shady or guilty of something simply for having it is BS. At this point, I think this thread has served its purpose and should be closed.

I don't know of a product currently on the market that specifically addresses that issue. I think your best bet without going full custom would be some bad dog frame rails, maybe with a little extra reinforcement in the lifting area.

No, you cannot swap a body and keep the same VIN. VIN swapping is illegal, and if I am not mistaken, that falls under federal law.

I believe 73 Zs (or some 73 Zs) had side impact beams added, and the doors for the '77 model year saw major design changes - for one, the door lock pull is farther forward in 77/78 Zs.

Can you link me to this 3/71 dated series one car? This is the one I was referring to: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-17/ I said about 20500 because I don't recall the exact number. It's not like there's a few series one cars with VINs 21000 and up. They are ALL under a certain VIN. As for build dates, most VINs correlate with a certain build month, but every so often there is an outlier, I would assume due to some sort of issue or event at the factory. If I am not mistaken, VINs were applied to shells in order, and date stamps were done as they were completed (can someone confirm/expand on that?), so if one shell gets held up for some reason, it will end up with a later build date. I am stretching my memory here, but that is my understanding of VIN/build date mismatches based on what I've read over the last decade. And once again, I am referring to the US market cars. I am not sure which part of my post you're referring to with your last sentence. I am only talking about US market cars. I think you are trying to apply an overly specific definition to the term "series one." As previously stated, it is not meant to apply to an exact selection of parts and features. And to be honest, I'm not sure if it really needs to have an exact VIN or build date cut off to be of use, even though I still maintain that there IS a VIN cut off, and save for a few outliers (actually just one that I know of), a build date cut off. Also, due to the fact that these cars are old, and many have been lost, we probably won't ever know the exact VIN cut off. Based on the information on zhome.com, the last reported series one car has VIN 20438, and the first series two car has VIN 21001, with the change over month being January 1971.

Early/late is too vague. Without context, it could mean anything. To simply say you have an 'early' Z could mean anything. It could mean any 240z, any series one 240z, any 1970 series one car built early in the year, or any series one car with a 1969 build date. In the context of 1969 build date cars, it could even mean only very early build date 1969 production cars. When you refer to a Z as a series one, most people who have been around here for a minute know exactly what you're talking about. And I would argue that there is a clear cut off. For US cars, VINs under, I believe, about 20500, build dates up to 1/71 - although recently there was a late production series one car that had a 2/71 build date, but that is an anomaly, and I've never seen such a thing. It works just fine as a 'series' descriptor, has for many years. I certainly wouldn't consider myself an authority on the matter, but I think my definition of a series one car is pretty accurate. It is not meant to apply to cars with an exact selection of parts. Also, I would only apply it to US models. I don't know the non-US Z market that well, so maybe it could apply to cars outside of the US market, but I am assuming that the term originated in the US, and is best applied to US market cars. Someone else can chime in if they feel differently.

I don't really get the confusion with the series one designation. It's a made up term to identify cars with certain features, built in a certain time frame. IMO the set in stone features of the series one cars are the hatch vents, '240z' badges on the C pillar, and lack of integrated storage/tool bins, and maybe a few other features like the solid spoke steering wheel. There were many changes within the range that series one cars were built, I don't think that negates the function or usefulness of the term.

I hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but if that tag is missing, I don't believe there's any kind of database that you can cross reference to get that data. I think you might be out of luck.

Interesting! Thanks for posting this.

Zs are not winter cars. If you value your car, you will not drive it on salted roads. Get a second car.

If you're referring to that rusty joint, that's not where it was spliced in. You can see the weld where they spliced it just outside of the hatch sill. It's going on a diagonal toward the bottom inside corner of the hatch opening. I believe that valence was used on Zs from 1974 (early 260z) up through '76. It was changed for the '77 model year.

What is different about the rear struts compared to other 240Z struts? Which years got the aluminum drums, and at what point are they not worth saving? I think I have some aluminum drums, but some fins are broken off. I assumed they were junk.

If I had to guess, I'd say someone had a car with a bad chassis, bought that shell, and transferred everything. Or maybe there was some foul play involved. It will definitely come up if you ever sell it - unless the buyer is oblivious. I would probably pass on it regardless of condition. I'm surprised that both the sheriff and the appraiser said to ignore the firewall VIN since, as Alan said, that is the one VIN that cannot be removed - or I guess I should say least easily removed. Maybe check the backside of the firewall for welds just to be sure. If you want this thing as a toy, I would simply follow the sheriff's advice, despite being illogical, and get your title that way. If you want it to hold value as a collector, then you have a problem. If it were me, mind you I know nothing about the proper protocol here, I would likely have them run the firewall VIN (a risk - be prepared to give up the car), and then have the remaining tags remade to that VIN - I believe there's at least one person in the community who provides that service. That's how I understood it. He's talking about getting a title, so it doesn't sound like he owns either car - the one the connected to the VIN on the firewall, or the one that donated its three VIN tags. Bad situation.

Uh, guys... he hasn't been on since Monday. Give him a break.

The FB "forums" are garbage. I don't see how anyone can even use them. There's no archive to search, no subforums divided by topic, etc. Garbage. FB in general as well.