rturbo 930

You're right. It doesn't have the knob on the gas door that a '71 would have, and doesn't have the bumper pieces that a '73 would have. Most likely it's a '72.

I'm looking forward to seeing your brake setup. The available kits on the market now don't quite offer what I'm looking for - but what you're doing looks to be very much in line with what I'd like to do.

I couldn't agree more. And I would say getting less than you want, but selling them would be better than getting nothing, and simply letting them rot in place and losing any remaining value. I don't see how anyone wins in that situation. At a glance, I don't think the black one is done for. It would be a full strip down job, but I think there might be something to work with there. The red one not so much. I'd call that a parts car.

I believe Arne has a thread on here detailing how his roof skin was replaced. But yes, the idea is to replace the entire roof skin. From what I hear, simply getting the roof straight enough for body work is hard enough, I can't imagine how hard it would be to weld in a big sheet metal patch, and then try to get it straight. Easier to replace the skin. I can't imagine it costing $4500 though. But that was probably just a big number to make you go away.

Not fond of the idea of a white interior. However, black and tan would be a great combo. Black and red as well - that's the color combo my E30 had. Black is a nightmare to keep clean though, so although it might look good, I don't think I would recommend it.

I think he likely has that much (and more) money into it, but I think he's dreaming if he thinks he's going to get that much, mostly because of the aesthetic choices made. I just don't think there's a market for a highly modified Z like that for that price. Remember the lime green SR20 swapped 240z from several years ago? I think he originally listed it for $125k, and it sold for something like $75k. It was much more tasteful than this car. However, that was before prices shot up, so it might sell for more than $75k these days.

I can see why you might prefer this option when the stock tank is absent. As I said, you can still go back, you just need to source a tank. You can do that later if you want. I will give you credit though - at least you used quality parts. However, you were previously suggesting the factory design was poor and prone to explosion, and that's why you made the switch - that's what I had a problem with. I don't have much advice for you for securing it. I don't know what they recommend, but your straps look like they fit well. The sheet metal they are bolted to is thin though - maybe a few large washers on the underside would be a good idea to spread the load. If you plan to race or autocross, look up their rules and see what they require. Might be a good idea to do that regardless. Your tank filler is higher than the trunk floor, so you might have some issue routing the fuel filler tube to the stock location and having it work properly. Lastly, you say that you have strangers telling you what is and isn't safe and how you should build your car as if it's a bad thing. We are giving you advice. You don't have to take it, but maybe you should. Again, you are 16, and you are new to cars. It's nearly guaranteed that you're going to do something stupid - take offense to that if you want, but that doesn't make it untrue. Most of us are older and more experienced, and we're trying to help you avoid making stupid mistakes. For the record, I don't think the fuel cell was a stupid mistake like improperly installed harnesses might be, just not really the upgrade you might think it is when used in a street car.

Well I can only assume that was directed at me. I was 16 not that long ago, and I remember what it was like. I also remember the vision I had for my car, and yes, it did include a fuel cell. Thank god I never cut out the spare tire well ahead of time. You think I am being unreasonable, but you are new to cars, and you haven't thought this through - and you wouldn't be the first. In my time on these boards, I've seen a handful of people cut out their spare tire well, install a fuel cell, and realize it was stupid later on. In your case, your fuel cell is smaller - 12 gallons vs 17 - and now your range will be shortened by a good amount, and you will also be opening your hatch every time you have to fuel up. You might think it's cool the first few times, but it's going to get old. And of course, your fuel tank is now in the cabin. Yes, you could create a bulkhead, but why do that when you could put the stock tank in and bypass the problem to begin with? You think that just because the car was designed in the 70s that the tank is no good. It could be improved with baffles and an in tank pump, which can be done, and has been, but I assure you that it's perfectly suitable. Many people still have their stock tanks. If it's rusty, you can have it recoated. And it won't cost you a grand. Fuel cells belong in race cars. I didn't come in here to pick on you, but if your argument boils down to "it's bad because it's old" then I'm going to have to respond to that. The entire car was built to the standards of the late 60s, same as the fuel tank, but it doesn't need as much improvement as you think. I would suggest spending more time reading and researching to figure out exactly what needs to be improved, and how it would be best to do so, rather than just throwing money at race car parts. The good news is, you still have your spare tire well, so you can still go back.

I've never heard of that. That was a problem for Ford Pintos, but I've never heard of that being a widespread problem. Again, if your mom is anything like mine, I would take what she says about the design of the car with a grain of salt. I've been in the Z community for over 10 years now (got mine when I was 16 too) and if that were a major issue I feel like I would have heard about it by now. Again, I would put the stock tank back in. I don't see the point of a fuel cell unless you're going racing. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a6700/top-automotive-engineering-failures-ford-pinto-fuel-tanks/

Honestly dude, not trying to be too harsh, but I don't think your mom has a clue about engineering or safety. Put the stock tank back in and pull that fuel cell out. I don't see that as an upgrade. Also somewhat surprised she had an issue with the fuel tank, but not the nearly completele lack of safety features.

Depends on the panel and what it needs. Rockers are okay. Floors seem to be good. Dog legs are okay. Rear lower quarters are awful, the compound curve at the rear corner is way off. Basically they're a mixed bag. Not necessarily better to get a panel vs patching and fabricating. Tabco makes most of the replacement panels and I wouldn't call them high quality.

Doing the metal work yourself is not a bad idea. Obviously you'll want to practice beforehand to make sure you're getting proper penetration, and that sort of thing (still need to take the class myself). Maybe see if there's a welding class in the area? Good thing to do while you're waiting for it to arrive. As for POR15, I'm sure some will disagree with me and say it's fine, but honestly, I think many people use it in place of a more appropriate product. POR15 is a rust encapsulator, and is actually intended to go on rusty metal, and not clean metal. I've heard of people applying it to perfectly clean and smooth metal only to have it peel back off. Additionally, if for whatever reason you coat the floors or underside in POR15 and later want/need to modify that area, I've heard it's an absolute bitch to remove. I recall John C saying that if the floors of a car were coated in POR15, that he would rather cut out and replace the floors than try to remove the coating. I would instead suggest products that are intended to be used as an undercoat. I haven't gotten to that point in my project so I haven't researched this in depth, but I'm guessing you will want to do epoxy primer, paint, and finally a quality undercoat. I'm not sure if 240Zs actually had an undercoat from the factory. My 240Z isn't undercoated, but my 280Z is.

The first two are good ideas, I think. However, I would say no to the blue interior, for the cost and effort, not being original, and the resulting color combo of blue on blue. The effort isn't worth the reward. And I would have to say no to the Corbeau seats as well. They don't fit the Z interior aesthetically. I would look into 80s Porsche seats (944 or 911) which look pretty similar to what's in the Z and won't stick out like a sore thumb. No idea if they're comfortable. Miata seats have also been done, but would need new upholstery to look right IMO. Period style bucket seats are also an option if you want to go that route.

Last two pictures where the paint/coating is peeling. Also just because it's a Datsun, and we know that it has rust, and has had rust in the past that has been fixed. It's always worse than it looks. Case in point, when I got my 280Z, I was stripping it down, and I removed the stainless sill plates. Nothing underneath. In another case, I bought my series 1 240Z thinking it had only minor rust. After all, I bought it because my 280Z had too much rust. Now I'm fixing the 280Z because the 240Z has too much rust. Although you wouldn't think so at a glance, it's beyond repair, I think, which is a shame. I'll second what grannyknot said about stripping and fixing it. Drive it a bit first though. Or will it not pass MOT as it sits?

Not to rain on your parade, but I think you're going to find a couple unwelcome rusty surprises on that one. But if you're happy with it, it could still be a good base for a swapped project car. Congrats on the purchase.

How you manage to make a single sale with that attitude of yours, I will never know. I agree with Captain Obvious - Never would have been better than late. You seem to have the maturity of a 10 year old boy.

Looks like he's already got an airdam. What he really needs is a proper splitter and a rear spoiler. Something like this is what I'm referring to if you're not familiar: http://skillard.com/products/240z-260z-280z-front-lip-splitter Beyond that, it would help if he closed up the radiator/grill opening to direct air to only the radiator, and to allow in only as much air as is needed. There is information on this in the Aero section of HybridZ that I think would be worth a read if you'd like to know more.

I don't doubt it's quick. What version of the S38 would have come in a Canadian M6? How much power is it supposed to make?

No worries about not being seen in traffic with that color lol.

There's a number of us that post on both forums, so I would think you would. Both forums are pretty slow these days, although if I'm being honest, I think this forum has a lighter attitude. No chance in hell a "boobs" thread would fly over there, at least not in the past. And mind you, I posted on HybridZ almost exclusively, at least until recently. HybridZ used to have some admin that were fairly strict, which didn't help. They're no longer active though. Only one active admin left off the top of my head, and he's a good guy. While it may be a good starting point for a project, I get the feeling it's going to need quite a bit redone. Flares, paint for sure, possibly wiring (because it just seems to be a common thing for swapped cars to have bad wiring - easy place to take short cuts I guess). If Jay isn't expecting this, he should be just to be on the safe side. I'm not getting the feeling that the builder of this car was a meticulous fellow. With regards to maintenance costs, here in the US parts for the motor are expensive since we never got them. He's in the UK, so it might be different there - did they get models with the RB there? I don't know. The transmission I believe is quite similar to a Z32 trans, so, if I've recalled correctly, he could just swap it out with a Z32 5 speed if the RB25 trans becomes costly. But while Z32s are common here in the US, again, I don't know about the UK. I think the person you're referring to is Miles.

Incredible. It looks like new - maybe better! What's the VIN on this car?

How is he going to go drive it? He's in another country, lol. I agree, something about the situation described there feels off. Seller strikes me as a bit sketchy. Also, it has had the floors done. You can see the seam. It could be a good car, but I would proceed with caution. Get someone on here who is local to go check it out, or find a shop to have a PPI done. Also, the rear flare is mounted wrong. Looks wonky.

The one texis30O is selling? I think he's looking for one that's not quite so nice. Honestly, I'd call that car a resto candidate.

If you're willing to start with a 280Z, you could maybe find one more locally. I found a dude on YouTube who bought a '77 in England. The guy had two for sale. 280Zs are unquestionably better built, but whether or not they are "better" depends on what you want from the car, and what you like about them. 240Zs are definitely more raw/vintage. Basically, from the factory, a 240Z is more sporty and nimble, a 280Z is more of a GT car. You can make a 280Z feel more raw/vintage, and you can make it look like a 240Z, but that will require effort and money. Some would consider that the fun part, some don't want to bother. Also somewhat depends on what mods you want to do. For me, 240Zs are at the point where I'm getting kind of uneasy seeing people drastically modify them (ie, engine swaps, cutting/welding the body), at least the nicer ones. I'm becoming a purist, lol.

That's partly true. Early 260Zs are very similar to late 240Zs. However, late 260Zs are very similar to early 280Zs. I understand why people prefer the 240Z, to an extent I do too. But depending on what you want to do with it, and what characteristics you value in a car, you might be better off with a 280Z. Having seen both a 240Z and 280Z as a stripped down chassis, I can tell you that the 280Z is the better built car. More obvious in some places than others, but it's clear that they had either improved their manufacturing process or their standards between 1970 and 1975. It is heavier, and uglier, but that can be remedied to some extent. It's not hard to swap the tail lights and bumpers. More difficult to remove the additional structure on the chassis for the 5MPH bumpers. Of course, some of that extra weight is in areas of the car where it is beneficial.